Ford Transmission :: 2004 F350 - Lever Switch Replacement?
Jan 28, 2014
I have a 2004 F350 dually 4x4 5spd/wod tranny. The day after I bought the truck (Nov 2013) the tow/haul switch quit working (light in instrument panel/not on end of shift lever). I need info/direction/instruction on replacing the lever switch. I have not actually utilized the tow/haul function but will do so 80% of the time starting in the spring. I bought the truck exclusively to haul a 4 horse/living quarters gooseneck trailer (10,500 lb empty; 16,500 lb loaded).
I have no reason to believe the light is burnt out, so I will replace the shift lever switch and see if the light will operate again.
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My reverse lights are out on my GLI 2004, i bought a new reverse light switch thinking that would fix it but no.......
I then checked for power in line and by jumping it and the light go on
So Switch is goodLine as power
But as soon as it's intalled no go, light out.... it seem's like the lever inside doesn't reach the connector from the switch.
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2006 350 here. I was wondering if it would be possible to replace my Automatic tranny shift lever with one from a newer truck (08+). If possible, what exactly would need to be replaced?
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I have a 2004 F-350 V8. The bed has been removed and it has a small dump body. This is the problem that just randomly started with my lights:
The headlights, dome lights, and tail light illuminate - the rear lights do not illuminate when the headlight switch is on. Otherwise, the brake lights work, the reverse lights work, the four ways work, and the turn signals work.
I checked the ground and believe it to be okay - What am I missing and where do I start?
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2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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Attempting to take this on myself. My passenger side manifold was replaced a year ago.....BTW This damn truck - all stock - no modifications of any kind - just turned 100k miles. One owner - me.
So I have removed everything I think I need to to gain reasonable access including the fenderwell and all the intake tubes and battery and coolant reservoir. I want to use some heat and try not to break the bolts but there is a thin wiring harness just above the exhaust manifold. I can't find it in any diagrams on the ford parts site. It looks like the glow plug and injector harnesses are up above near the intake manifold but this one is down below all that. It connects to small rubber thing - 1 for each cylinder. There is nothing else electrical near it - everything else is up top.
Now my rant - look away if you are a die hard ford truck fan or 6.0L powerstroke fan.
So far I've had to replace both exhaust manifolds because they burned and rusted right through. New transmission cooler lines -yes - rusted through and cooler (because we couldn't get the lines off without destroying the cooler). Cat got clogged (that was fun to find and fix). All 4 front ball joints replaced. Transmission dip stick tube rusted through. Several brake lines had to be replaced due to rust. The air conditioner quit with about 80k miles. I haven't fixed that yet. My oil pan is rusting through and needs replacement. Friggin oil pan! I have never in my long life experienced that. I know of other diesel pickups that are older with far more miles that live in the northeast, used for plowing and never garaged that don't have their oil pans rusting through. Just had to change both power steering lines that go to the gearbox due to leak caused by rusting through. EGR needs to be cleaned or replaced almost as often as the oil need changing. This POS needs to be out of my life!
Too bad because if it was dependable and wasn't made out of the cheapest crappy metal Ford could find it would be a great truck. Rides and hauls great. Plows great. Good looking truck, too. Standard cab 8 foot bed. Dark green. Just can't keep doing this.
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My switch is bad. I took it out and looked at it and cleaned it up and put it back in. The lever slides smoothly without stopping at the desired speed. Contact is made but the switch likes to pop up out of the assembly. I could use zip ties to keep it in, but like I said, it doesn't work properly anyway. I have looked everywhere in the searches and used parts links on the Geo Forum but can't find one.
Any blower switch that I can put in my Geo Metro '97, 1.0L, 3 cyl., base model with std. trans.? I need the switch/cover that is at the top of the picture, It pops in above the lever and by the 4 little clip rectangular holes coming up from the assembly.
Inside the switch there is a small spring and ball bearing about the size of a bb that causes the switch to "click". Spring and ball disappeared long ago. -- From a different thread. Does the spring and ball bearing come with the switch or is that a separate item?
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As it turns out, my shift cable wasn't bad. The transmission lever coming out of the transmission doesn't want to move very easily. When in gear, it shifts fine as it should, so I'm thinking something is bad with the lever. Problem is, I don't know what could possibly be causing it.
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72 Ford F250 with big block 460. after three years my truck is ready to run as soon as i get my new fuel pump in today. was hooking up shift linkage and noticed the shift lever will only click back two times and then goes all the way forward. I put a shift kit in the c6 and it was beautiful condition inside cant figure out why it would only shift to two places.
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I recently bought my first EX and I finally had enough of looking at this
The transmission shift lever indicator not being in the proper position needed to be fixed!
After some searching, I realized what the issue was and was quite surprised that the "fix" is replacing the entire shift lever indicator assembly. Seems overkill but right on par of with the way the world works nowadays.
The other solution I found was by a company called Dorman. They make a Shift Indicator Cable Bracket, which is the only part that was damaged in my case as you can see here. The white part pointed at by the arrow is supposed to be attached to the rest of the white plastic.
I looked around the garage thinking I need some glue. And something to reinforce the freshly glued parts. That should have been much more difficult as I don't regularly fix tiny plastic parts BUT I quickly came across this old external hard drive cover.
Broke some tabs off, trimmed them to size and poured glue all over the place.
This is what I ended up with.
Now my OCD can focus on something else
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Bought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
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The Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
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Transmission problem, will not shift lever. If car moves while on P, then the interlock will not disengage. I car doesnt roll at all it will allow me to shift gears but if the cars rolls just one inch then i cant shift gears. Already replace brake sensor.
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I am needing to replace the selector switch for my 4x4 on my 2003 F150 Lariat FX4... I already have the new switch. Whats the best way to get in there to remove and replace the switch?
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After lurking through the site and grabbing a hold off a copy of the RB's wiring diagram, I thought I'd put my basic electronics to good use. I managed to replace the stock alarm that came with my unit to a Passive Keyless Entry (PKE) with Start/Stop button.
After all the wirings, I managed to get it to work with one minor glitch: the instrument lights for the transmission level and manual A/C won't turn on as it used to whenever I turn on my park lights / head lights. I do *think* that it's still wired as the light for the air circulation comes off when I turn on the headlight knob. I also tried to re-insert the M17 ignition switch to see if that's the cause, but the lights still won't come on. Note that the reason the M17 ignition switch was removed is because I don't want the key (now cut and covered by the push start / stop button) to trigger anything when it's turned. I only need it there now just to disable the steering wheel lock.
Where I should start checking? I'm hoping it's just a busted fuse somewhere, but if I need to tap these instrument lights to another power source in replacement of whatever the ignition switch was originally used for.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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I have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
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I have a dead battery and the transmission lever is locked into Park, how do I overide to neutral in order to push the vehicle out of the garage for jump start?
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I have a 2002 Mazda 626 with A/T. It has not been slipping and has 134,000 miles on it. Last week when I started it, the transmission lever only slid back and forth without locking into any gear. Today when I started it, the lever locked into a gear but the car doesn't move. Is the tranny shot or might it be another issue? There is fluid in the transmission and it is only very slightly brownish.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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