Ford Transmission :: 2003 - OD Light Stays On?
Mar 28, 2013
So intermittently my OD light would come on and go off for a while now... I haven't noticed any difference In drivability and I still get all 4 gears... How do I tell if my overdrive is on? If I'm getting all four gears am I getting OD? But anyway the light stays on all the time now... 2003 excursion 7.3
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I've read a few things on the 4R100 and have a question.
My transmission stays in the OD off position until I hit 55 mph no matter the tune I am using and then will up shift to OD. It turns back off once I drop below 30 mph.
I was told when I bought the truck that it was a factory tow package. Is this a thing?
I would like an option to turn it off when I'm not towing or climbing a hill if I can.
Any way to modify it with a switch?
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when i bough the car i went on a test drive and everything was fine, once i bough it and went home my fiance opened the passanger side door to get in, and every sense than the door ajar light is on and the inside lights will never turn off and its draining down the battery, we have tried slamming the door shut and we just dont know what to do, theres not even a sensor botton to check out theres no way to tell what it could be for me as when i open the door to check out the botton like most vehicles do, there isnt one, what could it be?
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I have an 03 F150 supercrew FX4 and I noticed today that my ABS light has came on and won't go off. I know I need to replace the front pads and rotors, but what will cause the light to come on?
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TRUCK- 1997 F-150 4x4 5.4L 180,000 miles ( great truck ) The ABS light came on yesterday and wont go off. I checked all the wires I could see from under thr truck (looked good). Then I replaced the rear diff abs sensor, no luck. The omhs on the old one was 1200 and i guess that is in range. The light comes on when I start along with the 4x4 and low range light the 4x4 and low light go off and ABS flickers and comes right back with the truck still in park. Where are the front wheel sensors and how hard are they to get at? Can they be tested , fixed, or replaced from a junkyard?
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My E-brake light stays on all of the time. I have cleaned the sensor and adjusted the pads on the drum. Any reason why the light stays on? Its driving me crazy.
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My 2001 F150 has the ABS light on. I can startup and it runs thru the continuity test, light off, in park, no problem. Push on the brake pedal, no problem. Put it in gear and the light comes on, before you start to roll. Should mean its not the speed pickups, i checked them for ohms and 5 volt supply to each. I ran the scanner and got P0703 on the extended codes.
That normally means bad pressure switch on the brake booster. I knew that would effect cruise control and external leaks can be a problem, but could that be related to the 703 code ? Both "brake" related ? I am tempted to buy a switch and install. I do have the factory recall harness on the switch. And check for continuity thru the switch. Has continuity, but only a few ohms, not sure what it should be.
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Ok so i have an 02 F350 7.3 with 89k on it ... Ive had the truck about 2 years now and ever since i bought it the ABS light has been on. So finally i got to scanning it and codes popped up for the front speed sensors and the rear speed sensor. So i went ahead and just put all new MOOG hub assemblies in the truck which come with the speed sensor already in the them and i also replaced the rear speed sensor, which was difficult!!! Becuase the bolt was seized and i ended up have to drill and tap a new one and even then the sensor seats in the hole in the diff but doesn't seat flush with the housing if you really tighten it down, and it leaked a little fluid at first but i ended up loosening up the bolt a little to make it seat better and then i put silicone around the bottom of the sensor and it stopped leaking... Anyway I've fixed both the code issues and cleared them, BUT, the rear speed sensor code pops back up immediately after clearing it and the ABS light on my dash stays lit .... Idk what to do at this point because I've fixed everything and it still pops the code for the rear sensor, I just want the Light on my dash to go off thats all ! ...
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Why the heck would my dome lights (front and back) stay on while I'm driving and when the truck is off KOEO and locked? It's not the reading lights, those I can turn on and off at the switch on the light, it's the lights in between them.
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I have a 2003 T&C 3.6L with tow package, purchased used (privately) with 25K miles in 2006. Since I have owned it, it will occasionally not go into any gear when first started after sitting at least overnight- basically stays in neutral until engine is revved to about 2500 RPM. You can rev it in neutral or while it's in gear. This always works, and the transmission will then work fine until another overnight stay. I have had the transmission serviced 3-4 times (once when it first happened, and then at recommended intervals. The car now has 96K on it, and it has been happening less frequently (in fact, it hasn't occurred in about two weeks). I have discussed this with two Chrysler dealers, and have left it overnight twice, but of course it didn't repeat at the dealer. I haven't been able to correlate when it happens with anything except: it seems to occur more frequently when garaged in Pittsburgh than when sitting outside in Myrtle Beach (I spend time in both places).
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7.3 XLT 2002 -- Dome light stays on when doors closed ...
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New, to me, 2002 F-150 that developed heater core leak. I tore down the dash and replaced the heater core and reassembled everything.
All is good except that now the air bag light on the instrument cluster stays on continuously. There is no blinking...just a solid light that stays on.
I must have missed a connection, though I'm at a loss because I thought I got everything. Is there an obvious (though not obvious to me) connector that I should be looking for?
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long time ago i had to change master cylinder and the calipers on the fronts and the break fluid well i decided to test it out and see if they were working fter i was done with them then the light on the dash came on i thought its because the floating thing in the master cylinder was not floating which was not the case i dont think its the sensor i also lost my emergency break shoes never replaced em
01 f250 2wd 7.3l v8 diesel straight pipe 310,xxx
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Trying to be proactive seems to have backfired on me. What to do? Pull sensors and clean? Checked codes points to both left and right sides.
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
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Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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The red battery light on my 2003 gx470 with 106k miles came on while starting the truck up today. I had the alternator tested by my mechanic and it was outputting 13.0v -13.1v which was low but not causing any loss of power. The battery on two years old and tested out fine. Nothing was flickering, no loss of electrical components, etc. It's the original alternator and I'm going on a 1000 mile round trip vacation this weekend for 10 days I so decided to swap out the alternator since if it was "going" I didn't want it going 500 miles from home. My mechanic does the swap and starts the truck up with no issues and no red light on. Lets it run for 15 minutes and turns off the truck. 20 minutes later they start the truck up to switch lifts so they could balance and rotate the tires and boom the light goes on again? Turns it off and on a few times...light stays on. After testing everything out My mechanic decides it must be a bad alternator or the regulator inside the alternator and gets a different one from a different manufacturer, a Duralast this time from AutoZone. Installs it and the red light comes on immediately. The alternator is putting out 14v.
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2003 Santa Fe 2.7L, 2WD, 118K Mi.
This is a recurring problem. Air Bag light comes on and stays on. Seems to always get triggered by someone sitting in the front passenger seat AND the right side rear passenger seat. First couple of times I was able to clear it by removing the neg. battery terminal for 30 to 45 min. Then it stayed on and didn't clear. I took it to the dealership and they said they cleared it by cycling the connector behind the glovebox. It has been ok for a long time until yesterday night when I had 5 people in the car. Now this morning the "Air Bag" light is on and won't clear. I tried disconnecting the neg. battery terminal because it was easy to do but no luck. I have checked the connectors under the passenger seat thinking someone is bumping a connector with their feet but all connectors seem ok.
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For the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
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