Ford Transmission :: 2002 7.3 Auto Trans Not Going Into Park Completely
Jun 7, 2015
My 02 trans with 189k miles on it has lately started not going into park completely. Every once in a while it will feel like it is in park, but when i get out of the truck it starts to roll away, and the park pawl can be heard ratcheting. The shift tube screws are tight, as is the tube itself and the shift lever. Does this sound like the trans will have to come out?
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So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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having never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????
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My wife have a 2004 Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive.
The car starts, head lights, cabin lights, radio and power lock works, BUT power window and AC/climate control does not work at all, dead, no power.
My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues. I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
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My friend's older Honda Civic (automatic transmission)- year is 1995 - has been getting stuck in PARK off and on the past 10 days - she was shown how to "override it" by AAA by putting the car key in some slot near where the gear shifting handle is. She can shift it out of PARK and into 4th gear and then can start the car. but now sometimes she cannot get even get the car to start. It has happened about 8 times in the past 10 days. It first happened about 6 months ago -- but now it's happening almost daily. It has been very rainy here lately (in the Bay Area of Northern CA) - can this be an electrical thing that is happening? Wish I could give more details -- my friend needs her car for work - so she is a bit worried that her car may be on it's way out or headed for major repairs. Her financial reserves are not great so she'll have to find a good "used" vehicle again too.
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Anything else that could cause reverse to go out of an automatic tranny other than the tranny being shot? I don't know of anything but any way to keep me from replacing a tranny.
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I recently bought a 2002 Mercury Cougar with an automatic transmission. I really like it, but it seems to have some trouble shifting. If I really "punch it" it revs all the way up to about 6200 rpm before it shifts. I think this is high, but the red-zone isn't until 8000.If I don't "punch it" and I accelerate slowly it still goes up to about 4300 rpm. I talked to many of my friends and mechanics that I know and they have a lot to say (as do I). One thing they all talked about was my transmission. They told me to check my tranny fluid and make sure that it is full, not discolored, and didn't smell burnt. I did all this and everything seems okay.
Also, someone I know who is very knowledgeable about mechanical issues looked at it and he said that it doesn't smell burnt, it's a perfect color and is filled correctly. Another thing they brought up is that the car might be governed because it tops out at about 82 mph (I know that's way too fast, but I have to know what she's got.) It also only has 115,000 miles and seems very well cared for, so I think it should still have plenty of life left in it. One of the mechanics said something about a manual linkage sensor. (Mlt sensor). He said that when they steam cleaned my engine that it might have gotten wet and then when the pulled the car outside it might have froze and cracked, causing my troubles. Also, they mentioned about how if you disconnect the battery on a Ford vehicle that it will reset the computer and usually takes 1,000 miles or so for the computer to run through all the codes and realize if there is anything wrong. I do have a brand new battery and was just replaced prior to me purchasing it. My check engine light is not on and it seems to purr perfectly all the time.
My boss has a computer that we hooked up and let it run the codes and see if it would tell us anything, but it's a small personal one and he said the Ford dealers computer can dig deeper and possibly find the problem. His little hand-held computer didn't find any problems. I don't want to have to bring it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it before I know what's actually wrong so that I can save them time, and me money. I don't know if this is a problem and should be fixed.
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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My 2005 Ford Taurus (3.0 liter engine, auto trans, 117K miles) recently began shifting hard (dropping suddenly, not smoothly) only on the 2-3 shift at 20 MPH. The check engine light is not on, and the car functions perfectly otherwise. A mechanic removed the trans pan, replaced the filter and fluid, and added Lucas additive. The interior of the trans was clean, and did not have a burned smell. The 2-3 shift did not improve.Could it be a valve body or a solenoid? Is it repairable? I drive it gently, and the problem hasn't gotten worse (2 months). What's up with my trans?
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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My Daughter just bought a nice 99 F150 and the auto trans gear dash indicator is off by one so park says R and drive says N ... shes also having a little trouble with the key occasionally so I think the problems are related. Is this adjustable or not?
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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What is going on with my dad's car. This car is a 2000 Ford Taurus with about 160,000 miles. In the morning, when he starts the car and drives away, sometimes the speedometer will not work and the automatic transmission will not shift out of first gear. After a few miles, the transmission will suddenly upshift and the speedometer will jump from 0 to the current speed. The door locks will also lock at the same time (they normally lock upon reaching a set speed). However, the car can be "forced" to shift, start the speedometer, and lock the doors by accelerating to 5000 RPM. The problem appears to have something to do with the vehicle speed sensor, but I don't know what exactly is wrong with that system. The car also knows that something is up as the Check Engine light is on.
What might be wrong with the VSS that causes this problem?
Why can it be forced to shift at 5000 RPMs?
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I can get the fan to work in lo-med-hi if I set the rear-cool fan selector to those positions, however, selecting auto results in the fan turning off completely. Do I have to have the front in "auto" for the rear "auto" function to work?
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I have a 2006 F250 with the 6.0 PowerStroke and automatic transmission. I just purchased this truck at an auction about a month ago.
Today I notice the transmission is not shifting into overdrive. No warning lights. If I press the tow/haul button in no change but the tow/haul light does come on. If I press it again (to turn it off) the tow/haul light goes out but still the transmission will not shift into overdrive.
This leaves me at about 2000 RPM at 68 MPH. I just had a Ford dealer perform Transmission service last week. (20,000 miles after the last recorded service.)
I am already not happy with the service I received at the dealer so I am really hesitant to take it back to them if it is something not related to the transmission service they performed.
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Was in chic fila line and all i heard was beepbeepbeepbeepbeepbeep and i was thinking...theres a pencil holder..a umbrella holder...but no way to mute it temporarily?!?!
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'06 Camry base 4 cylinder. How do you shift auto trans into "L"?
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I was driving to work this morning on the highway and noticed my car was running at 3500 RPMs while I'm going 65... kind of odd, right? drop it into tiptronic, shows fourth, I shift up to 5th, and drop it back into "drive." A few seconds later I laid off the accelerator as the road started going downhill, and the car downshifted to 4th while I'm going 65... Back to tiptronic, shift up to 5th again, then shift back over to Drive.
I then accelerated a little as the road started going up hill, and the car downshifted AGAIN for no reason while I'm doing 70!!!! I wasn't laying on it at all either, very grandpa-like driving.... I've never driven an automatic car before, so maybe this is normal - but it doesn't seem normal. Once I got off the highway the car drove fine, but i dunno whats up. It's a v6 with 107k on it....
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