Ford Transmission :: 2001 7.3 - Half Shift Between 1st And 2nd - Stuck In Gears?
Sep 20, 2012
2 wheel drive. No problems shifting until a few weeks ago when I put a chip in the truck. Then became a funny sort of half shift in between 1st and 2nd. Kind of a half shift and then a final hard shift into the next gear.
I have only driven the truck with the chip setting in economy by Gearhead which is 40hp. Well, all day driving in an economy but I have played hard with all the settings, smoking my tires and what not but never actually driven it into anything other than the economy.
Tonight it's done. Starting in the normal drive from a red light it was in between that funny shift and then it just fell back all the way with a hard thunk followed by it wouldn't shift at all out of first gear. Took it out of tunes, same difference. Found out when I take off in drive it won't shift on its own out of first but when I put it in second from the tree it shifts into second as normal, coming from the drive. Then when I start getting up into the rpm range that she normally should shift past second I put her back in drive and she shifts into third (and fourth?) normally. If I remove the overdrive it still immediately downshifts. When I turn it back on it shifts back up normally.
But again, starting from drive I have to put it into second and then into drive for it to shift. I still have reverse and it still kicks directly into first from the park and takes off, just doesn't shift from first to second on it's own.
I checked the tranny fluid, it's seemingly fine. Great red color and full. Does not smell burnt at all. No flashing light or anything anywhere either. No blinking on the overdrive light on the stick or no warning lights anywhere else.
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I have a 2004 manual transmission Santa Fe. I've maintained it very well since new.
About 6 months ago I noticed it was getting difficult to manually shift gears. It wasn't grinding or anything, just "hard" to get it to go into the various gears while driving. Before, I could shift into any gear with just 2 fingers on the gearshift and it was smooth as silk.
I went in and had the gear oil changed. This was something I didn't even know needed to be changed and the guy said most people never do. They showed me the oil they took out and it looked more like black water than oil and smelled kinda funky. They changed the gear oil out, but still no difference, and in fact it's getting worse.
The best way to describe it is the only way I can really shift gears now is to find that "sweet spot speed" where the gears will change on their own (so to speak). I find it particularly difficult going from 1st to 2nd, such as when starting from a stop light. People almost rear-end me now as it takes me longer to get it into 2nd gear.
Once in gear it runs perfectly, no problems. The clutch seems to be working normally, except perhaps while stopped in 1st gear, it sometime seems to jerk a bit, and I find this most noticeable if I'm stuck in very slow moving heavy traffic with the constant stopping and then moving forward slightly and such.
It is almost impossible to "gear down" into a lower gear unless I'm at the speed where it would normally go into that lower gear on it's own. The best way to describe it is how it is possible to drive a standard transmission car WITHOUT a clutch if you shift at just the right time/speed. But I DO use my clutch, but if I'm not close to "that speed" it's really, really difficult to force it into another gear, and the few times I do try and force it, I'll often get a bit of grinding.
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My daughters passat will not shift gears. Does'nt shift up when taking off. Does'nt slip or make noise. I have a 87 and 88 Cabriolet, one auto, the other manual 5 speed. Both have problems but, with the search key I have located and made repairs.
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I gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans. I replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.
If truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.
Truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.
If I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.
It is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. I am 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing.
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I have a 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with a 4R70W trans behind a 5.0 liter. Vehicle sat for about 5 months. Went out to put it back on the road, and now the trans seems to be stuck in a forward gear no matter what the selector is in, park, reverse, neutral. Dropped the pan and replaced the filter and replaced what fluid was drained. no difference,.
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I had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
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I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
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Been working on tightening up the 3 on the tree assembly because shifting has become troublesome; not wanting to engage gears completely, tough to go from 1st to second and so on. I have already adjusted the linkage per the shop manual with no improvement and found that it was not misadjusted. One of the first tasks is to replace the bushings from the shift rod to shift level under the hood though the bushings have some play but don't look that bad.
I have noticed the amount of play in the column when in neutral seems excessive, between 2nd and 3rd I can move the shifter about 2-3 inches up or down from center without feeling any tension toward a gear. This I think is the shift collar. Before I go tearing into the column, after replacing the shift collar was the amount of play significantly reduced?
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This is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
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1997 2.3 5 Speed. My poor truck is having a hard time shifting into gears. I have bled the master off the truck with the correct method, bled it on the truck with the hose on the slave method while pushing the pedal and multiple times with no bubbles coming out at all, no leaks, etc.
Here's the breakdown -
- Clutch, slave cylinder and shifter bushings replaced about 3 years ago (everything has less than 7000 miles on it)
- While driving and pushing in the clutch, it clearly disengages, although quite a ways down.
- Only shifts hard while running. If I sit with it off with the clutch in, I can shift through all the gears with no effort whatsoever. At times while driving, it gets so hard to shift that it may become dangerous.
- Only things I haven't replaced are the master cylinder and the flywheel.
Should I just assume a bad master and just replace it? It's the original with 188,200 miles on it.
Forgot to mention there are times that when I am at a standstill trying to go into reverse, it grinds like the transmission is still engaged.
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2009 Kia Sorento. The Transmission was replaced twice last week and the week before. For the same problem. 50K miles. Auto Transmission...
I have a hard shift between 3rd & 4th gears, I have had the transmission replaced twice. Could it be something else?
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i've got an accord 4 cylinder with an automatic transmission that does not engage any of the other gears when i shift it out of park. all indicator lights are out except for the park position on the dash.
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I have a BMW 523i SE AUTO (1997) 2494 Petrol. In auto transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd but won't shift any higher. In steptronic/manual transmission the gears will shift from 1st to 5th without any problems therefore suggesting that the problem isn't the gearbox itself. Only very occasionally does the shift electronics telltale light appear on the dash, yet the problem with the auto transmission is continuous. A local garage specializing in automatics suggested that it was the gearbox inhibitor. I've today had this changed but the problem still exists.
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My 2001 altima wont shift to high gear. driving around town seems to be ok, will driving on the highway be dangerous?
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The area where you shift transmission gears isn't lighted. Find that strange even though you can see what gear you're in on the lighted panel. Gear not the right term, but think you know what I mean.
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I went on vacation for a week and left my car at my parents house. I came back and now it has become extremely difficult to shift between gears. It's nearly impossible to get the car into reverse, extremely difficult to get it into first, makes a thud when pulling it out of first, is semi difficult to get into 2nd, but only a mild nuisance to get into 3rd through 6th.
For more information, the car is a 2012 Volkswagen GLI with just shy of 40,000 miles. The car ran just fine before I went on vacation and the car was not moved while I was on vacation. I did notice that a little ticking kind of sound when I had the car in neutral with no clutch. So the throw out bearing was starting to wear, but it was a very slight. But I haven't had any other problems.
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I have a 2000 VW beetle with a fairly new clutch (2 yrs old). My boyfriend is new to a manual transmission and I can't say I know much about how it works either. A few times when he was driving he will reverse out of a parking spot and then shift to first and the car will make a deep rumbling noise. We turn off the car and turn it back on and its fine. Is the car stuck between gears? Why does it make this noise?
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Drove a new 1.8T VW Passat last night. 170hp/184ftpd torque. Huge difference! My Camry feels totally underpowered now. Also the transmission seems to shift into high gears way too early. Had reprogram recall done and shifting was better for a little while but now is back to being the same as before.
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So I recently purchased a 2007 LS460 with 115k on it. I've noticed that about a month ago the car started driving pretty weird. The transmission would shift hard and jerky almost through the first 3 gears, like driving a manual.
Also, when I tried to floor the car from maybe 40-50mph, the rpm would shoot up only 500 then downshift and accelerate causing a violent jerk. It feels like if I was driving at 50mph on 8th gear, when I floored it the car would feel like it downshifted to 7th gear for merely less than a second and downshifted again to 4th gear causing the car to jerk hard.
This is the car's history:
- Reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (no luck)
- Auto transmission software has been updated at the dealer
- Valve springs recall has been completed
- Head covers has been changed
- Engine module has been reprogrammed by the dealer at 70k miles
- Trans fluid has been changed at 70k miles according to lexus.com service record
So at this point I really don't know what could cause this problem anymore, maybe it could be the transmission fluid?
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I have an 04 V6, 42,000 mi. There is an intermitent problem with the transmission. The MFI display doesn't hilite the transmission mode (P,R,N,D,S) or gear (1,2,3,4,5,6) and the tiptronic mode appears to be disabled. On occasion the transmission doesn't want to shift into higher gears. Seems to happen when the engine is cold (So Ca cold, not Mid West cold).
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For a few years now, in cold weather, when starting my 2000 Honda Odyssey the TCS light will stay on and the transmission will not shift out of low gears. I can drive in reverse just fine, but when I try shifting to drive, the "D" drive indicator does not light up and it will only drive in what seems to be first gear. However, when sufficiently warmed up, I can restart the engine, the TCS light goes out, and everything's normal. The warm up time varies from 5 to 10 mins or more, and is unpredictably annoying. I went to a dealer last year and they didn't seem to have a clue. Is it just a matter of a bad sensor?
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