Ford Transmission :: 2000 F150 - Life Expectancy Of Clutch At 180,000 Miles?
Mar 11, 2014
I know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
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I've been a diesel pickup owner for years so I'm curious what you all would be happy to expect from a new purchase.
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I drive a 2008 5.4L F-250. How long do the average cam phasers last. I run full synthetic at 5K intervals and run WIX filters.
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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Having problem with 5R110W direct clutch. My nephew had his 2005 SD f 250 6.0 be told that 5R110W direct clutch problems. He was towing a trailer in tow mode and it started slipping in and out, so he took it to a dealer and they said that it was the direct clutch that was causing the problem and needed to be rebuilt, he only has 40000 miles on it but they said that it is out of warranty. What do you guys think that he should do?
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This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
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2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
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I have a 2000 Accent that I changed the clutch and CV Axles on and now the transmission seams to be stuck. When i got done replacing the axles and installing the brakes I spun the wheels while installing the nut to aline the cotter pin. Once I got the car down, serviced the gear oil, bled the clutch master. Went to drive the car and it wouldn't move .
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I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
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i have a 1991 5 speed F-150 that i only use to plow my private rd... and have been using it like that for about 8 years. we have had quite a snowy season in NH, and it has been running good, until yesterday. while pushing snow, it idled really high... like the clutch went (had a new clutch put in 4 years, 400 miles ago.) i checked the clutch fluid. nasty brown, but no leak. it sat over night and i tried again today. same thing... except I realized it only seems to be doing it in 4 high and 2wd. in 4wd low, it seems to work fine. hoped to find some solution on the site, but there was nothing. we're getting another 4-6 tonight....
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How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
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So this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
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Fan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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I have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
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I have 4K miles on my R and I have noticed that the clutch "feels" softer and when engaging first gear, the clutch feel on up take feels different then when it was new. Am I crazy or does the clutch need to wear in / break in?!?
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