Ford Transmission :: 1999 F250 - No Forward With Code P0705?
Mar 2, 2013
1999 f250 SD 5.4 reg cab 320000 km. (200000 m for all those south o the border)
Short story is after plowing truck doesn't like shifting out of second. usually works again next morning. Took it in to have tranny flushed/serviced. No change. obd says p0705, transmission range sensor circuit malfunction. today just as I got home I gingerly (seriously not boring the snot out of the truck) started using the plow to shave the bank out of a corner of my driveway. started taking its time to shift into D. reverse is fine.
Finished what I was doing and went to turn around, backed up 3 point style and it wouldn't move forward in any position tried D, 2 and 1 and nothing. put it into 4wd low range and it did move a bit, tried it again in 4wd high and nothing, tried it with 4wd off and nothing. eventually it felt like clutches engaging like the abs would, very grabby but not moving much.
As I said I already flushed the tranny and had a service done on it. From what I read my next step is to change the transmission range sensor (same as a neutral safety switch yes??) What could my problem be?
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
I was pulling the I-40 ascent to Asheville today while empty, got to the top and started down the other side got to semi flat road and the tach suddenly went up about 600 rpm's. Transmission temp about 180*F. I let off, then resumed and everything was fine. About a mile later it happened again. This time the tranny lost 3rd and OD, still had 1st, 2nd, and Reverse. So, we limped into a service station. Temps hovered in the 170-180 range. At this point there are no codes, no lights, O/D is not flashing.
I shut the truck down to check fluid level and current condition. Everything was fine last night. Fluid level is still good and fluid is still red and clean. I changed fluid about 2k ago and the fluid coming out looked almost as good as the fluid going in.
Got back in the truck started it up, checked for codes and got a P0705, put the truck in gear to get to a diesel shop down the road and everything was fine, shifted completely normally through all the gears. This lasted until about 1 mile from home and then the same thing happened all over again. Fluid still looks clean, not burned, still no CEL, no flashing O/D, but only have 1st, 2nd, and Reverse.
View 14 Replies
I recently had a thread going regarding my 1999 F350 2wd auto transmission slipping in/out gear. Tried to follow up on old thread but got confused so I'm trying to start a new one. Basic problem is that truck was slipping in/out of gear. Cleaned the solenoid pack electrical plug (as instructed on previous thread) and the truck didn't act up for 2 weeks. Today it started slipping in/out again and this time it registered a code of P0705.
View 7 Replies
I have replaced the transmission Range sensor (with OEM) and it is adjusted correctly, however This did not clear the. Code P0705... I am stuck ....
View 1 Replies
I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
View 4 Replies
I bought 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4 couple of months ago, Been running good with no issues , no check engine light . Today I had it detailed from the inside and got it clean at a shop , then took it and changed the transmission Oil at Jiffylube . after leaving the shop the engine light came on . I then took it to a local Auto car parts and had used a car diagnostics scanner to see what was the problem and this showed up P0705 Transmission Range Sensor . I deleted it , then while driving around town , it came back on . I live in Minnesota and it is very cold here, not sure if the cold weather have to do anything with it, but i doubt it. The car looks and seems to be running ok .
View 5 Replies
This is what I get from the DTC .....
DTC P0705
Description : transmission range sensor circuit malfunction
State : History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
Since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS.
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...
View 10 Replies
I am looking at buying a 91 f250 4x4 with a 5.0 and an e4od. When I start the truck I can feel It roll forward A little bit. I can put the trans In od or nuetral and It will drive and shift normally thru all 4 gears, no slipping and no noise no vibration, It shifts and acts perfectly normal. 1st and 2nd work fine as well. When I put it in reverse It rolls forward slightly then drops Into reverse, it will not actually back up, you can rev the engine to stall speed but no higher. Sometimes in park If you rev the engine It will actually over come the parking pawl and roll forward.
Also when In park I can rev the engine to stall speed only. It only starts in p or n, and the reverse lights come on in R so Im assuming the mlps is adjusted properly and the manual protion is adjusted properly. I pulled codes and had 3 in total, ect shorted, egr flow insufficient, and 1 code for torque convertor clutch solenoid I believe It was 632. Im assuming the reving up to stall speed Is related to the tc code. The fluid level Is fine but is a little dark In color, I tried doing a search with no luck ..
View 5 Replies
I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
View 11 Replies
Today i go out and crank my truck and it fires right up. I notice the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. It did that a few days ago but stopped within a minute or so. This time i noticed the check engine soon light was lit as well. I checked my scan gauge and it said three codes stored. The first one i looked at was P0705. The truck was running fine the whole time. I turned it off and tried to crank it again.
This time it just turned over and over but would not crank. I cleared the codes before checking the other two codes. I wish i would not have done that but I wasn't thinking straight. I tried several more times to crank but it never fired. One time it tried to but never fully did. I gave up and switched cars. I am going to try again when i get back home. What causing this?
View 14 Replies
To start I was driving to work tonight and noticed the o/d "off" light flashing. it shifted hard one time then felt normal the rest of the way to work. At red lights the o/d light world turn off and about 3 minutes later it would flash again. When I got to work, I checked my code reader which gave me the p0705. I have searched around the net for about an hour and one thing i am seeing is that the fluid is "hot" or that there isn't enough. i have checked it and it looks slightly low like right above the add indication.
The only sound I here from under the truck is a rattle when in drive and at idle, but once I give it some gas it goes away. On they way home that night the o/d light was still flashing but it drove fine just at higher rpm, it down shifted hard one time but there were no other issues. I checked the fuses and they are all good.
View 8 Replies
2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
View 6 Replies
I have a F150, 2nd 4.6, 122,000 miles. No forward gears. When put in drive, you can feel it trying to engage, but doesn't engage completely. Reverse is a solid engagement. Replaced filter and fluid, same issue.
View 12 Replies
I don't know why... It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problemo, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral.
There was no banging, no clunkin, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened. I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more.
Next I did the obvious and checked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new. I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
I am on a tight budget and working on my back. I am willing to take the tranny out and bring it into town. Personally I think it's electronic but I don't know ...
Why THis thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings?
Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue? I really want to avoid removing the tranny at all costs so if there is something I am missing let me know and if you think just yank it out I will.
View 3 Replies
2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
View 7 Replies
I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
View 14 Replies
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 Replies
My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
View 1 Replies
It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
View 1 Replies
I have recurring P0705 trouble codes. Lexus dealer checked the N/S switch itself and said it's good. I checked all the wiring, found an open, shouted Eureka! Ran a new wire, now all wires test good, but still getting the code. SO - I think I may need to adjust the position of the switch, since the trouble code is for a range malfunction. BUT - I can't find a procedure anywhere.
View 3 Replies
