I recently bought a decent looking 1999 f250 4x4 5.4 auto. It has no forward gears and will only move in reverse. I topped off the fluids and have found no leaks so far the cooler lines are crusty but dry. I am gonna need to swap this thing out or do some more trouble shooting if there may be a non rebuild issue to solve.
View 4 RepliesI'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
I have a 98 expedition with a 4.2 liter 4x4 and what I believe to be a 4r70w transmission (u code on the door sticker)
The original transmission went at 105k miles and was replaced with a new factory ford transmission by a ford dealer 3.5 years ago. The new transmission only has 10k miles on it.
Now the new transmission only has reverse. reverse works like normal but no forward gears. the idle will change when i put if in gear, but will not move, acts like it is in N . There is no strange noises.
It's hard to believe a new trany is shot already, no towing, or off road use.
My question is : is there ANYTHING that can go bad that would cause this? The trany fluid is clean and clear bright red, and no burnt smell.
I want to check everything I can before calling a tow truck to have it looked at. I will have it repaired if needed, but I don't think I want to replace another tranny.
The truck is a 2002 f150 4x4 5.4l... I was driving down the free way last night in 2wd doing about 90kpm when there was a loud bang like a ran over something. Speedo went to zero and abs light came on. Pulled over and shut it down. Crawled underneath to check so damage and couldn't see anything. Stared it back up put it in drive and it just revs. No forward gears or reverse. Fluid level is good, bright pink. Dropped the transmission pan, pan is clean and magnet has next to nothing on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
View 13 RepliesThe other day I was leaving my house. I started the car and heard a quick, loud chirp. That was the only noise it made so I continued to leave. I rolled out of my driveway and proceeded to put it in drive and found myself rolling backwards. I tried every forward shift, kicked on the 4x4 and continued to roll backwards. I thought reverse worked but found that it wasn't engaging either. My question: is there anything I can look at before resorting to taking it to the tranny shop? I'm in school for automotive and am confident in my abilities to test solenoids and maybe even dropping the valve body to check that. Other than that, I lack the skill to pull the tranny myself and work on it.
View 3 RepliesI am looking at buying a 91 f250 4x4 with a 5.0 and an e4od. When I start the truck I can feel It roll forward A little bit. I can put the trans In od or nuetral and It will drive and shift normally thru all 4 gears, no slipping and no noise no vibration, It shifts and acts perfectly normal. 1st and 2nd work fine as well. When I put it in reverse It rolls forward slightly then drops Into reverse, it will not actually back up, you can rev the engine to stall speed but no higher. Sometimes in park If you rev the engine It will actually over come the parking pawl and roll forward.
Also when In park I can rev the engine to stall speed only. It only starts in p or n, and the reverse lights come on in R so Im assuming the mlps is adjusted properly and the manual protion is adjusted properly. I pulled codes and had 3 in total, ect shorted, egr flow insufficient, and 1 code for torque convertor clutch solenoid I believe It was 632. Im assuming the reving up to stall speed Is related to the tc code. The fluid level Is fine but is a little dark In color, I tried doing a search with no luck ..
My '87 Chevy S-10 transmission slips like mad in forward gears and I can't go everywhere in reverse. The truck is gaaged in southern Virginia about 60 miles from my home and is used on some country property. The local transmission shop wants $1600 to rebuild the trans. He says he used sturdier parts than the replacement GM parts. I'd like to fix the truck because it comes in handy and was my dad's old mode of transportation around the Va. countryside, so it has sentimental value.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 Sante Fe 4X4, (my first Hyundai), that has transmission issues. It has about 135,000 miles on it. It will start easily, and go into Reverse just fine, but would not move in any forward gears. It would occasionally shudder a bit when put in 'drive', but only move forward a few inches. Recently, my mechanic backed it around, then decided to try it in forward again. This time it went forward a couple hundred feet, then quit moving forward. Do I need a new transmission, and if so, what vehicles use this same transmission? Or is there a sensor or valve that could be defective?
View 5 RepliesMy low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
I have a F150, 2nd 4.6, 122,000 miles. No forward gears. When put in drive, you can feel it trying to engage, but doesn't engage completely. Reverse is a solid engagement. Replaced filter and fluid, same issue.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
View 14 RepliesI don't know why... It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problemo, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral.
There was no banging, no clunkin, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened. I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more.
Next I did the obvious and checked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new. I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
I am on a tight budget and working on my back. I am willing to take the tranny out and bring it into town. Personally I think it's electronic but I don't know ...
Why THis thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings?
Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue? I really want to avoid removing the tranny at all costs so if there is something I am missing let me know and if you think just yank it out I will.
My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
View 4 RepliesI have a '99 Toyota Camry automatic transmission with about 184k on it. I bought it used last summer.I noticed that when I speed up, it is sometimes slow to switch gears. I have to ease off the gas before it changes gears. This also happens when I go from reverse to drive. I experience it more noticeably when I haven't been driving the car for long or on a cold morning. I haven't brought it in yet...
View 6 RepliesIt seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 RepliesI have an automatic Jetta and just hit 130,000 miles. Recently, my car would randomly after I turn it on and put it in drive, the car would jerk forward and make like a popping noise. Then the car drives fine as usual. As if the gears are slipping? Is this a sign that my transmission is going out? What else can cause this? What should I do?
View 2 Replies1999 f250 SD 5.4 reg cab 320000 km. (200000 m for all those south o the border)
Short story is after plowing truck doesn't like shifting out of second. usually works again next morning. Took it in to have tranny flushed/serviced. No change. obd says p0705, transmission range sensor circuit malfunction. today just as I got home I gingerly (seriously not boring the snot out of the truck) started using the plow to shave the bank out of a corner of my driveway. started taking its time to shift into D. reverse is fine.
Finished what I was doing and went to turn around, backed up 3 point style and it wouldn't move forward in any position tried D, 2 and 1 and nothing. put it into 4wd low range and it did move a bit, tried it again in 4wd high and nothing, tried it with 4wd off and nothing. eventually it felt like clutches engaging like the abs would, very grabby but not moving much.
As I said I already flushed the tranny and had a service done on it. From what I read my next step is to change the transmission range sensor (same as a neutral safety switch yes??) What could my problem be?
Had tranny fluid and filter replaced a couple months ago. It's in a 35 foot motorhome (F53 chassis). The motorhome is within it's GCWR. Climbing a 6% grade at 3,500 rpm, little more than half throttle, like all the other climbs. 80 degrees out. Engine temp was on the letter "R" on the word "NORMAL". All of a sudden my engine redlines as if it popped into neutral. I let off, put it into neutral, and try "D" again. Nothing.
At this point it's uphill so it's naturally slowing down and I try "2". Nothing. Even slower and I try "1". Nothing. Pulling over blocking the right lane on a blind curve on a grade is scary. Had pylon cones out, waving traffic to warn them down a ways, etc.
No fluid on the ground, no slipping prior to this. I have reverse. I see no obvious linkage or electrical/wire issues underneath (from road debris, etc). It's at a shop but I want to know all I can so if they come back with something outrageous I can make a decision. I never pulled the stick, as I was coordinating traffic, highway patrol, a tow truck, etc.