I'm a new Ford owner, when I engage 4wd I get a fairly annoying whinning / wheering sound that sound like the front end. Only makes sound under acceleration not coasting. No vibration at all.
View 11 RepliesWell, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
My first opportunity to really use four wheel drive and I am having a whine and a very slight vibration from the drivers side wheel. The noise is only noticeable under throttle/load. When I let off, there is no noise. The truck is also quite in two wheel drive.... No whine.
The truck has been to the dealer for a front end clunk that is coming from the drivers side. The dealer, as usual couldn't replicate it, and didn't do anything. I notice the clunk more on the rebound. I also notice it when using more of the suspension travel i.e. going over a apron into a shopping center, or the crown of a cross street when traveling at a good speed. Short choppy pothole bumps don't replicate the noise as easily.
If I had to guess... The two issues are related. Narrowing it down will be the key. Transfer case? Failing hub? If I don't spoon feed the dealer, I will never get it fixed.
I have a 1998 F250 XLT single cab 5.4L V8 Triton. Truck idles fine 1st and 2nd are fine, when it shifts into 3rd it starts shaking really bad until it gets higher into the gear then it smooths out. same with 4th gear. If i punch the gas it flies right through the gears with little shaking. Ive heard its the u joints, I've heard its the tranny. I don't know what to do or try to figure it out.
View 1 RepliesI purchased an 1999 F250 Super Duty truck last Sept., it ran great all winter, now when I accelerate I notice a whining type noise (that's the only way I can describe it) it only does this during acceleration not @ idle, could this be a bad water pump? However there are no leaks or puddles of anything in my driveway.
View 2 RepliesI've got a stock '15 F250 6.7 w/ the Diesel Site FF67 fuel/water separator and a 50gal Titan Tank. I installed the filter + tank at the same time around 2 months ago; A few weeks ago, I started noticing an odd buzzing/whirring/gurgling noise (both while the truck was running, and while the fuel pump spins up right after turning the key on). I made a quick video of it this morning:
Ford F250 6.7 w/ Diesel site filter DFCM buzzing/whining - YouTube
I thought maybe it was a filter related problem (I got some little black plastic bits in the filter after installing the Titan Tank, despite my best efforts to clean it out thoroughly before installing) - so earlier this week, I replaced both stock fuel filters, and both filters in the DS filter. Didn't seem to affect the noise from the DFCM at all.
I guess my question is - does it sound like this is sucking in air? I've never found any leaking fuel (even after a 3000mi drive from TX to VA and back), and the truck has never complained about low fuel pressure as I've read that some others have run into. But I don't remember the DFCM/low pressure pump being this loud before I installed the new parts.
I spoke to the folks at DieselSite a day or two ago (those guys are great), and they mentioned that sometimes the Ford quick-release fittings work themselves a little loose from the fuel hose during the filter install, and that putting a hose-clamp around the hose+quick release fitting may solve this; I ordered from clamps from McMaster Carr that arrived today, so I may give that a try tomorrow just to see if it changes anything.
When I start the cold engine mine makes a loud whining noise. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said that the sound is normal and that it's the turbo's. I think I'll take it to another ford dealership and get a second opinion, The service guy has the same truck as me and his was making the same noise on cold start up and they told him it was the turbo's also. Something's not right about the noise.
View 14 RepliesI recently bought a 2001 x w 145,000 miles. The transmission was making a whining noise when i bought it but it still shifted smooth and ran great. The truck has been serviced by the local Ford dealer its entire life with dozens of routine maintenance performed. With 145,000 miles should I wait for the converter to go out and just install a new transmission. It only gets drove on the weekends to go to the lake.
View 7 RepliesI have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
I went to start my car this morning and it seemed my battery was dead. I then had my car jumped. It started fine, but the trip meter was reset. As i was driving it seemed fine. I then came to a stop at a traffic light and the engine started failing. I parked and the guages started going nuts, the engine was making a high whining noise, it sputtered a bit and then shut off. What is going on? Is it something i can do myself having little experience working on cars?
View 1 Replies1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
View 3 RepliesI bought late 98 F-250, 5.4 G, 4WD. OHad to replace the steering flange because they messed up the ignition cylinder and flange. Truck didn't run for 4 years. 249K miles, no history available. Got the engine running, no DTCs. D, 3, 2, 1 barely moved the truck forward but, R hauled butt in reverse. Checked transmission fluid it was good and clean.
Came back to it a few days later it threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit) and I have no reverse, park feels like it wants to move, R is neutral, N is forward, D is forward, 3 is forward, 2 is forward, 1 is forward. The N is full drive. I cleared the P0720 code after it came up and it has not returned. The instrument gauges work but the odometer display is intermittent. Linkage? Fluid? Sensor? Wires?
'05 F150 5.4 Sounds like a whining noise from the front end when turning to the right or going straight. Goes away on left turns. Thought it was tire whine but put originals back on and got same thing. 13.5x35 verses 275 Truck has a Fabtech 6" lift. Right CV axle seems tight, rotor assembly replace 2k miles ago. Any other option before going into front diff?
View 2 RepliesI first heard it start about two or three weeks ago. It started when I would brake too hard. So I took a look at the brakes and the caliper pin was rusty so I loosened it up and it was fine for a day or too. Then all of a sudden it started in the front like something was grinding. Someone told me it was the transfer case. so i put in 4 wheel drive and it goes but then you really hear the grinding. How can I tell if its the transfer case or the front end where the drive shafts go into.
View 1 RepliesI posted awhile back about a loss of power and hard shifting in the transmission. I thought I had it fixed, well I kind of did...... Replaced the IWE that had locked in solid. I replaced both, added some transmission fluid, new front brakes, and a new belt back in July/August. Truck was fine for a few thousand......
Well it's back. Now I have a noticeable whine in the cab. I haven't pin pointed it yet. It is only audible when the truck is running from 35-50 mph. It is not RPM dependent, it doesn't change when I take it in or out of four wheel drive. It isn't there when the truck isn't moving.
The truck has 61,000 on it. I bought it with 35,000 on it because I wanted a vehicle that wouldn't nickel and dime me. Something I could climb in and not worry about making home.
Well here I am less than 30,000 miles later and I have had issues with the fuel controller under the bed, brake calipers sticking, IWE's, new shocks, broken front coil spring, recall for the airbag, tie rods, ball joints, power window regulator, and now what appears to be a transmission.
I come from a long line of "FORD" guys, but I am seriously considering something else. This 04-08 model has to be one of the worst pickups ever built by ford.
Are the newer ones any better? Other than routine maintenance a vehicle shouldn't have to be touched before 61,000.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape 3.0V6 with high miles. A while back the transmission on this vehicle went out while at work. I got the bright idea that I would tow it home with a dolly until the funds were available to make the repairs. We pushed it up onto the dolly and secured it. I also put it in park. It took me about a 1/4 mile to figure out what was with all the resistance (my first thought was "Dang, that sucker is a lot heavier than i thought"). I pulled over, put it in neutral then proceeded without any more problems. A junkyard tranny was put in it. Rides and drives fine. There is a whining noise that is very distinct and gets worse with increased speeds. It sounds like it is coming from the rear end. No noise while stopped.
I have checked everywhere i can reach to see if anything is hot... (thoughts were maybe a bearing) nothing found.
Fluid is full in rear end.
I just drove it and figured it would get worse or get better.
Now that winter is almost over I am very confident that the 4x4 is not working. It does not matter if you are in Auto or 4x4 only the front tires spin.
My 2007,4.6 is making a whinning noise from the front of the engine around the idler/tensioner/alternator. What I have read it might be a problem with the alternator getting cold, I forgot to mention it's cold up here. Fixed by changing the alternator and did the noise come back as it seems to be a design problem?
View 12 RepliesI bought a 2004 6.0L F-250 used a few weeks ago. There have been a few problems here and there that I have been competent enough to fix. I am now facing a problem of A: the truck not starting (I believe it was just a battery problem, charged and started fine). But also B: I have had a slightly frayed serpentine belt that I noticed a few days ago. After I got the truck running from my the no-start and driving it around the block I parked it and went inside. Came back out a few minutes later and I tried to start it. It hesitated a little bit but started with a loud whining noise and white smoke coming from the belt. Turned the engine off and saw on one of the bottom wheels (pulleys?) some residue that looked and smelled like burnt rubber. Is this just simply a need for a new belt?
View 5 RepliesMy 07 SCREW 5.4L 4x4 has 77,000 miles and has a high pitch whining noise on front right side of engine. Sounds worse in the cold,increases with RPMs.
View 5 RepliesMy car is making a strange whining noise - a bit like the transmission noise on a Japanese motorcycle, or the noise a radio makes if the suppression isnt there. It goes up and down in pitch with the engine revs - so is 'something' attached, or internal in the engine. It sort of started around about the time the fuel recall was done, but I cant say for sure that it was exactly then. Its prevalent enough that you cant hear the normal growl of the engine. A Bearing maybe ???? water pump ?? AC compressor ?? (Its still there if you turn off the AC, BTW).....
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?