Ford Transmission :: 1998 E4OD - Downshift From Overdrive Is Sloppy And Slow
Jun 29, 2014
I have a 1998 C class RV that the downshift from overdrive is sloppy and slow when the button is pressed to release the OD or to put it back into overdrive mode. It seems to pause and then kick in or out of OD. Is this a common problem with E4OD transmission? What will fix it, fluid change? Solenoid replacement?
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I have a 1990 class C motorhome with a 460ci engine an a E4OD transmission, It shift pretty smooth, but it goes on overdrive mostly only when I go up a hill, and down shift as soon as I reach the top when it should be the opposite. I bright it to a tranny shop, they change fluid and filter and make road test on a plane road and find no problem.
The way I see it is that it shift 1-2-3 then I hit the OD button and it goes on 4, then, if I'm going up a little or asking for more power it upshift another gear(5th ) and when I coming back on a plane road it downshift to the 4th gear until I need more power. It doesn't look normal to me.
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My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
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97 f350 5.8L E4OD Transmission. This truck will not downshift when you come to a stop. You must manually shift it all the way through and then it does fine. What is causing this issue? It will kick down into passing gear. What is wrong?
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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I have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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I have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
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2000 5.4 4x4. 104k miles. Extended cab. Heres the issue, when you're at that spot on a slight upgrade and the tranny should down shift out of overdrive it will downshift kinda hard. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it wont. Its driving me nuts. I thought maybe change the fluid and filter and see what happens, but a tranny guy that I don't know from the other guy said dont waste your money its more than likely a broken spring behind a piston. I put a new motor in this truck about 10k ago so I can wrench. It did this before the motor swap too.
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98 f150 4x4 5.4... So i purchased this truck about 3 months ago and now I am having problems putting it in Park. The column shifter is very loose and sloppy. Is there any way to rebuild this?
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I own a 2004 Passat- 1.8. I want to make my steering and throttle more responsive. The throttle is very slow responding, and the steering is very sloppy. I know this is supposed to be VW's Luxury car, but this would greatly enhance the performance and driveability of this car. How do I do this?
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My tranny slips in drive and od when it is warmed up.It's fine for a few miles when it is cold.Did a quick search and it seems like it might be a bad mlps.
My question is, Will a bad mlps act up all the time or just when it's warmed up? Will a mlps and connector from a 91 tranny work on a 95 tranny? Don't really want to throw money at it if it will need a rebuild.
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I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
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My 95 psd recently started shuddering on takeoff... Pretty sure its the torque converter. It has a full ATS tranny with 5 star t/c and all the goodies installed by the previous owner (warranty not transferable). Its only got about 25k on the trans but they have been far from easy miles.
Symptoms: If I hold the brake and keep the truck stopped while holding the throttle its totally smooth, not until the truck starts moving that the shudder begins. It shudders worse the more power i put to it. Does it in first gear and second gear takeoffs. Goes away at about 10 mph or once the speed catches up with the rpm.
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I have an E350 1992 7.3l Diesel, with E40D. The transmission slips in the 3rd and OD position. Every time, if I want to accelerate it slips for a few seconds and then the drivetrain is correct connected. The shifting into another gear works properly, the transmissions slips by changing from free-wheeling into accelerating ( for example: at speed 90km/h and no changing the gear).
I have recognized that the oil temperature is getting higher now. That may an indication for additional losses in the transmission. What do I have to check?
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I have seen a few threads about E4OD's and there valve issues just want to narrow down to a valve issue or if it needs a rebuild. I can shift threw all gears i just have lag going into 3rd. also when putting it in reverse it takes about 5 seconds to finally drop into reverse. This is also accompanied with P0782 2-3 shift malfunction.
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A while back I picked up a 1994 Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.
I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.
I'm not an automatic tranny guy at all but it seems like an electrical issue. I was not able to drive the truck with the original tranny other than reverse (no bang) but the PO told me it was fine till it started slipping. I did test drive the donor truck and the new tranny worked correctly in it.
Being new to the process I need more detail and some of the basics. I'm comfortable with electronics and have the test equipment I just don't know the procedure. I'm guessing a bad connection/wire or something not compatible between the 1993 tranny and the 1994 truck.
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1994 E350 Club Wagon 351w, E4OD Transmission. New MLPS, New VSS, New TPS, New Fluid, New Filter, 5 year old Torque Converter.
The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.
The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.
This time I let it sit for 24 hours, and after work I successfully put 20 miles on it without missing a beat. It was shifting right, good solid connection between the gas pedal and the road, and I thought the problem was fixed, as the temperature the day before was -20, and it warmed up outside to 30 degrees above.
I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.
Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.
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My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...
The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.
Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.
Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.
This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.
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I just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
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