Ford Transmission :: 1998 E350 - ATF Leak Near The Mount?
May 21, 2015
Noticed an ATF leak on my van on crossmember/tailpiece mount awhile ago. Not the driveshaft seal but near mount. Checked tightness of bolts on case and mount and found the one mount bolt that goes into transmission case loose- about one whole turn.
(other bolt is on an "ear" of tranny case) Checked again after a couple of weeks and leak is worse, same bolt is loose again.
Is there a gasket or O-ring on this particular bolt? 1998 Ford E-350 with 6.8L - trans code E on door sticker. I believe it is an E4OD as the tranny pan says "Metric" (?) 324,000 miles on this and runs/shifts fine. Occasional vibe issue at highway speeds... I've added 1 quart of ATF over this time period.
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I've got a 1998 E350 Ford One tonner. The van has electric door locks throughout. I lock the doors and sometime on it's own it will unlock them. Not so cool when you have tools in$ide it.
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I bought a 2006 E350 with a 6.0L diesel. Has some issues I hope to work through, or failing that I'll ditch the thing and learn a lesson.
The pressurized coolant reservoir has a crack/leak in it. Is it wise to only replace it, or should I look for a root cause? The temp gauge does not go past 50% pulling hard up a mountain pass.
This was a fleet vehicle that was pretty much abandoned. There is a chance the reservoir was cannibalized for another rig and had the bad part thrown there but I'll never know.
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We recently purchased a 1991 Minnie Winnie (Winnebago) which rests on a 1990 Ford E350 chassis. It only has 58k miles. While driving on the freeway or highway, the Overdrive starts to go in and out; downshifting and upshifting willy nilly. It has a manual button for turning off the Overdrive and when I do this, it stops jerking and drives smooth. But, of course, this effects the gas mileage significantly. I took the Minnie to a garage recommended by the company I purchased the Minnie from. They replaced the manual Overdrive switch and replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Ford transmission.
We got it back and it was okay for one trip but by the second trip, it was doing the same thing again. I took it back to the garage and since it was under warranty, they put in a new rebuilt transmission, another new Overdrive switch, a new fuel sensor and checked the wiring but it still had the same problem. So they sent the onboard computer board to Ford who rebuilt it. The guys at the garage thought for sure this would resolve the problem. It didn't. They have exhausted their ideas as to what is causing this problem. We love the Minnie Winnie and other than this problem it is in beautiful condition.
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How the auto gear shift works on a ford E350.Does it work by wires or does it have a steel column to change the gears.I have looked for pictures but with no luck. I have spent 2 hours looking.
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I just came across a deal on a 93 E350 motorhome for dirt cheap. It has a whine at 50 mph and believe its the rear end. The whine is under throttle not coast.
There is a tag on the axle housing that reads :
4:10 a diamond shape 2US AC
760553
Is this a Dana 60? Looks like a Dana.
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I have a 1987 e350 conversion. Recently the vehicle has been acting up. Once warmed up, the transmission does not drop back into low/1st gear when stopped at a light, when we go to accelerate the vehicle has no power as it tries to accelerate in drive. I have to manually shift into first which the transmission immediately kicks down. When it comes to transmissions I like to have some knowledge before bringing to a shop.
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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Started having an issue with my '92 E-350 box truck. I noticed a slight hesitation while driving which I thought was a miss from perhaps a plug wire jumping or something. It didn't do it all the time, just occasionally for a few seconds then would clear up. I looked for a bad wire at night but couldn't find anything so I said hell with it and changed plugs and wires, cap and all.
That didn't fix the problem. Progressively the problem has gotten worse. Then I started hearing a pinging, almost tapping noise as the truck was stumbling. Now I've noticed that the motor seems to be running fine as it does it which has led me to think it may be in the trans.
A little background on the trans. About 6 months ago the van started randomly conking itself out coming to a stop after a few minutes of driving. It seemed the trans was bogging the motor down as if it were locked together. If I put the truck in neutral coming to a stop it wouldn't do it. I went ahead and had my uncles shop flush the trans and he put some sort of synthetic fluid in it.
Since then the van has never done the cutting off thing again. All seemed well. Then this started. It does it from take off through all the gears even in OD. It almost feels as if someone is rapidly hitting the brakes. I thought maybe malfunctioning brakes however soon as I'm not pressing the accelerator it doesn't do it.
Today I had about 4000 lbs of wood in truck and it was a horrible trip. The truck would barely get up to speed. I unloaded the wood and on the way home it only seemed to do it going up hills so it seems any load on the truck makes it happen.
Does it seem I'm in the right area thinking transmission?? Being it happens in every gear would a torque converter seem to be a possibility. When I was having the cutting off problem I was told it sounded like the converter wasn't unlocking but the flush seemed to fix that issue.
I haven't pulled the pan to see if there's any surprises in it and I did the diagnostic check and there wasn't any problems found. Any other manual diagnostic checks?????
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I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
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Looking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
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Vehicle: '99 E350, V10
Symptoms: speedometer bouncing, O/D flashing, harsh shifts. Symptoms do not present until the van has been driven at highway speeds for about 20 miles. Then, the speedometer starts to bounce a little. Then, after another 5 - 10 miles, the O/D light starts to flash. Then, with a few more miles, the harsh shifting begins.
Parts replaced: neutral safety switch, rear ABS/speed sensor (twice), instrument cluster.
Each time after I replaced a part, when I drove the van, all was fine until it had been driven at highway speeds for about 20 - 25 miles, regardless of whether the engine was warm or cold. Where to go next with it?
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I recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
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My 98 Bonneville has some rust on the engine cradle mount. Is there any repairing this? If not, how long should I expect the car to go for until this causes problems? The mount that sits in front of this one is still intact.
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Cleaned the engine and determined the location of this oil leak. I am posting two pics. The far away shot shows the leak in the center of the picture...near the motor mount. The close up pic u can see the leak coming from a vertical seam just Below where the half shaft enters the transaxle. It is definitely motor oil, not transmission oil.
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I have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
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I was just advised that the transmission mount on my 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe is leaking. Part #21910-2B500. I am looking at $444 to have it replaced. How easy is it to replace? Are there special tools needed?
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96 3.1 V6 grandam se......I need to replace the transmission mount on the drivers side of the car. This is the one with the rod mounted on the transmission the goes thru the transmission mount thats bolted to the car frame....I see 4 bolts holding the mount and one center bolt thru the rod to hold bushing in place. cant get the mount to clear the cars frame..
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