Ford Transmission :: 1997 F150 - Front Drive Shaft Installation - Bolt Size?
Apr 29, 2015
Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
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I am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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I bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
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I recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
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I have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
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My elderly neighbor has asked me to re-attach his drive shaft on his F250.
Said his wife was driving and it broke the u joint or something, and he has gotten it repaired and wondered if I could put it back on. Has been sitting for a bit from what he said.
Just need to know, how I should clean up and or grease? the end with the boot on it. before I put it together. The boot looks to be zap strapped, is that standard?
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This morning, while looking into why the front drive wouldn't engage, and moving the plastic cover over the battery out of the way to check for any vacuum issues, the positive battery post cable to the battery post moved. There was some fluctuation engine-wise. After I shut it off and tightened down the cable, re-started the truck, and continued looking for vacuum leaks, a few minutes later the truck died.
What's been done thus far, re-checked battery connections, checked in-line mini fuse-20amp, checked both mega fuses-power both sides of each, checked 10 amp #4 in cab fuse block, removed alternator and took for check-checked ok. Would there be something else that would trip if there was an abrupt dis-connect from the battery with the truck running?
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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My 1996 ford f150 4x4.. The problem is with the front drivshaft it does not turn even when the 4x4 is not engaged. The 4x4 works and engages and disengages properly but when it is not in 4wd the front driveshaft does not spin freely..
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I was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
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I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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1986 F150 3spd Auto 300 v6. My truck will not shift out of 1st in Drive, to shift into second I have to column shift to 2nd. 20mph top speed and idk what to do to fix it. I would like to put a 5 spd manual in it cause I would like to drive over 50mph.
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I've got a 1997 Dodge Ram with 150k miles. I was driving down the Parkway today and the drive shaft fell out of the rear differential. Is this a major problem? Can this be easily bolted back on or is this the end of my truck? Or something in between? I have no clue where I stand.
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I went and fired up my ac today for the first time, and guess what no ac. So I crawl under the truck to check the compressor out, and guess what I find? The stupid face of the compressor had came loose and was sitting between my frame and the steering rack. Just glad it didn't fall off the truck, now I need to put it back on, but what size bolt. Looking for a spare compressor or know the size and length of the bolt?
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I have a 02 f150 4x4 5.4 135 k the transmission will not shift into drive unless you rev it up to about 1500 rpm and when it shifts it goes in very hard but when you get moving it seems to work ok but every time you stop or slow way down it does the same thing. It works fine in reverse and the oil and filter is good. I am thinking TC but i dont know ...
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I have a 1997 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual. We are rebuilding the transmission ourselves, and taking on the task has been pretty hard. We are stuck at the input shaft. How to take the input shaft out? Do you need a special tool?
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