Ford Transmission :: 1997 F150 4.2L V6 Stuck In Park
Oct 30, 2014
1997 Ford F150 4.2 liter V6 with Eod transmission. I have replaced the shift actuator, the brake switch, the ignition switch and tumbler, tightened all nuts and bolts on and around the steering column shifter, and had a mechanic replace the shift cable and go through the wiring from front to back. He couldn't figure out the problem.
I recently noticed while coming to a stop on a gravel road I touched the brakes and the front brakes locked up. I have anti-lock on this truck so is this normal and could this maybe be the problem with no brake lights and not coming out of park? Just for giggles I also had to come to a sudden stop in town on pavement a couple times and the tires locked up so hard I could smell rubber burning where the tires slid.
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My manual transmission got stuck in 4th because of a melted oil trough sticking between the gears. I got all the plastic out, and the dog clutches/collars are "free." But, I don't know how to put the gears back into neutral. When it's reassembled, the stick doesn't work to change the gears. How can I get the gearbox back into neutral?
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Dad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
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I posted earlier this month about my 1996 Ford F150 4x4 manual tranny truck. It had gotten stuck in fourth gear, and I, along with others, assumed it was the shift forks. I cracked open the top of the transmission yesterday, and what do I see? Melted plastic staring back at me. What's going on here? There was melted plastic jammed between fourth gear and the inner wall.
Is this a case of the surgeon leaving his instruments inside the patient? Could a mechanic have dropped his tuna sandwich wrapper in the transmission at some time?
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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I have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
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My 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
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I have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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Was looking for some advice on what my problem may be. I just replaced the slave cylinder on my 02 f150 4.2 and two days after I changed it on my way home from work my truck jerked when I was about to turn into my driveway. Then when I stopped I put it in neutral snd it started rattling really bad it stopped when I pushed the clutch in And when i let out it started again. It sounds really bad and im hoping its something I can fix my self and not terminal.
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My wife have a 2004 Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive.
The car starts, head lights, cabin lights, radio and power lock works, BUT power window and AC/climate control does not work at all, dead, no power.
My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues. I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
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A bit of a long story, but brought my 2005 automatic honda civic into a mechanic for timing belt changeout (im at 112k miles) but expressed my concern over a noise persisting for approx. a week, sounding like it was stuck in a lower gear... but RPMs were fine. The mechanic looked at it all day and came to the vague conclusion that a bearing in the final gear of the transmission was busted. Brought it in for the diagnostics and had to take their mechanic on a test drive so he would hear what noise I was talking about. OK, days later = new transmission. Within 24 hours I hear a noise mimicking what I heard prior to work. They tell me its a wheel bearing that they couldn't properly diagnose without first replacing the transmission. Why not replace the wheel bearing before the transmission? How can they prove to me what was the real problem if I am still hearing noises?!
48 hours after getting the car back I wake up and start the car to warm her up before driving to work. She sits in park, running, for approx. 10 minutes and when I hop in, step on the brakes and try to pop it into drive from park, she is locked up and will not shift anywhere. In a panic I call honda and they tell me about a little 'trap door' i can pop off next to my shifter and manually flip it out of park. Fine. It works and I get to work, then have no problems getting my car into drive until the next morning when the exact same thing happens. (It is suggested it is a brake switch, but once it got into drive the brake lights worked fine.) So, this next morning I can not manually pop it into drive. It is currently at that Honda dealership, and has been there for 5 days, where, of course, they have not had ONE problem getting the car into drive.
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My friend's older Honda Civic (automatic transmission)- year is 1995 - has been getting stuck in PARK off and on the past 10 days - she was shown how to "override it" by AAA by putting the car key in some slot near where the gear shifting handle is. She can shift it out of PARK and into 4th gear and then can start the car. but now sometimes she cannot get even get the car to start. It has happened about 8 times in the past 10 days. It first happened about 6 months ago -- but now it's happening almost daily. It has been very rainy here lately (in the Bay Area of Northern CA) - can this be an electrical thing that is happening? Wish I could give more details -- my friend needs her car for work - so she is a bit worried that her car may be on it's way out or headed for major repairs. Her financial reserves are not great so she'll have to find a good "used" vehicle again too.
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Just bought a '97 Buick LaSabre in great condition (Grandma-owned), 74K miles. Only problem is when I turn on the car I have to wait 1 to 1-1/2 minutes to get it out of park.... as if it needs to "warm up" before changing gears.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
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I searched for a prior post on this without success. I have a serious problem with my '04 V-8 transmission shift lever being stuck in Park in cooler weather. Ny wife is the primary driver, and on some cooler mornings it is almost impossible for her to move the shift lever out of park. She has to let the car warm up a bit, and then move the lever around a bit with all her might before it will finally move out of park. The dealer can't figure out what is wrong. It only appens when the temperature is below about 50 degrees, and with winter approaching, frequent problems lie ahead.
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Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
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This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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