1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
View 5 RepliesI've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
We installed a TransGo HD-2 "reprogramming kit" into my friends 96 F-250 460 4x4 E4OD in preparation for future engine modifications. The problem is it didn't work correctly.
All forward gears work (some shifts are harder then stock, but many of the shifts are just as soft as stock, which in itself may be another issue). We drilled the separator plate for the V8, we may try the diesel size next though...1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th + tq lockup all work however.
Anyways, the major problem is that it no longer has reverse. If you shift from reverse to neutral, the RPM seems to go up a little bit as if it were in gear a bit, but give it some gas and it acts like it is in neutral. Obviously something went very wrong.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger with 95k miles on it. Recently, my truck's automatic transmission has been slipping really bad. I'll be driving down my road and while going around a turn, the clutch feels like it randomly disengages, so when I press on the gas, it feels like I'm revving my truck in neutral, and then it will all of a sudden get back into gear, violently a lot of the time. However, once the truck is warmed up, the it runs perfectly and never slips. I've checked my oil multiple times and even changed the oil filter in the transmission. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it, but if I let my truck idle in park for a little bit, the RPMs will increase and if I shift in to reverse or drive while the RPMs are high, it'll do the same thing.
View 14 RepliesMy 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
View 2 RepliesI'm having trouble with my auto tranny again. it is a 4r44e and is in a 1999 3.0 flex 2wd extended cab. It will not pull in reverse, seems to be slipping bad, and it won't pull in forward gears unless you switch OD off. Then it seems to pull fine but still not in reverse. I haven't drove it very much to see on changing gears and such for fear of burning it up.
Fluid is still like new no codes showing just started out of the blue while my son was driving. All electrical is hooked up tight and no leaks fluid is little overfull but not much. I am going outside now to adjust intermediate band to spec. had trouble with overdrive that had everybody stumped if you remember and it was overdrive band adjustment so going that route first.
I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
I've been driving a 96 Corolla into the ground for the past 5 or 6 years and recently it's been having overheating issues. It has overheated to the point of steam twice now, and I'm worried at this point I've fried the engine or transmission.
I regularly check the radiator fluids and oil thinking that these would solve the issue, but alas it happened again today ten fold.
While driving home in hot southern california today I first noticed my transmission slipping in traffic. It was slipping when I started moving in stop and go, and settled in once I was going 30 or 40 miles per hour. I had my puppy in the car and was only a few minutes from home so I thought it would be fine, otherwise I would have pulled over immediately.As I got closer the problem got worse to the point where I could no longer shift and move forward. I over revved the engine to get it into a safe spot and it overheated. After waiting 40 minutes I checked on the Transmission fluid (checked unrunning) and it was bone dry. The radiator was full with coolant and oil levels looked good. I put as much transmission fluid as I had in my trunk (not much) back into the car, started it and got the car up the few more blocks I had to go. On the way it was still slipping, at the severity it had to begin with.
My question to you is do you think the transmission is totally shot and I need an overhaul? Or is there some hope that it may have been overheating because it needs a flush/drain and new transmission fluid? The car is at 136k miles and has had a replaced radiator in the past year.
Just bought an 01 F250 7.3 but it will not move I think it has something to do with the fuses because it won't go in forward or reverse but I can't find an accurate diagram For fuse box I'm missing probably 8 fuses underneath the dash and I think one of them has to control the transmission module. What it could be if someone doesn't think the fuses...
View 9 RepliesI was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
View 11 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
I own a 1996 XL Ford Ranger 2wd 5 speed manual.
Last week I had it in for some service, which included bleeding the clutch lines and new fluid.
Since then when putting it in reverse the transmission grids. It is also very difficult to get into first gear - I really have to shove hard on the stick.
Better Description of symptoms: When the vehicle is moving it shifts fine. When I come to a stop, put it in neutral and let out on the clutch, it is then very difficult to get back into first gear. If I leave the clutch in, fter I come to a stop, I can shift around to all the gears no problem. It's only when I let out on the clutch, then push it back in to shift into first is the difficult part.
With reverse, I have to move ahead a bit, THEN I can shift to reverse without the grinding noise. I talked to my mechanic who check to ensure the fluid was NOT low (it wasn't) and no air bubble existed in the line. After that was checked, he said the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.
Well, then, why wasn't it doing this BEFORE I had him bleed the lines? It started the day I picked the truck up from service. He recommends the following to fix the problem...
- slave cylinder
- new line
- disc
- preasure
I am asking why this would happen after he bleed the lines? Is there another problem that can cause this?
My F250 has had transmission problems since I bought it cheap from a friend last year. I knew it needed a new seal as it was loosing a quart of fluid every month or so. Also, when the truck was not warmed up the transmission had a hard time going from 1st to 2nd. Recently, the same problem popped up with the change from 2nd to 3rd. Today, backing up a hill the transmission slipped, refused to engage, and the engine was revving out of control. The body and engine are still in good shape.
View 3 RepliesI been having a issue with my truck lately. It's a 2008 with only 88,000 miles. When doing 55mph it feels like the transmission is slipping. Sometimes it will do it over and over. If I speed up to about 60mph it goes away.its has gotten worse in the last month or so. Hoping it's nothing major.
View 6 Replies1999 F250 SD... Tranny fluid is low, tranny slipped one time on me. I checked the fluid and it's low. No drips on the garage floor, so I'll have to inspect closer. But my question is can I add new fluid without screwing it up even more? It's got 170,000 miles and I doubt the fluid has ever been changed. I just bought the truck last week, so I can't say for sure, but it hasn't had a regular flush or change. It doesn't smell burnt but it's just a little darker than new fluid. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the torque converter was changed in it not too long ago.
View 11 RepliesI was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 Replies4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
View 4 Replies2011 f250 gas 4x4... I bought last year with 65k miles, now has 105k. sometimes when accelerating it slips for a second like a manual would if you jabbed the clutch while pulling. I had the 100k trans flush done. I noticed it a couple times before but more frequent recently. How concerned should i be?
View 6 RepliesI bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...