Ford Transmission :: 1995 - Constant Howling Noise Felt Like Something Banging Against Inside Of Case
May 5, 2014
I recently bought a 1995 Bronco. The rear axle makes a pretty awful noise. I put it on jackstands and ran it while I laid under the truck and it's coming right from the differential. It makes a constant howling noise and it felt like there was something banging against the inside of the case.
I removed the inspection cover and drained all the fluid out. It looked like chocolate milk, but the gears themselves all look fine. I didn't find any broken teeth, metal shavings, pieces of bearings, etc. in the case. It looks like a perfectly normal differential.
The truck has 166,000 miles on it and doesn't appear to be abused at all.
Here's a video I shot of the noise. You can't really hear the howling noise but the knocking sound is pretty audible. The frequency changes with the wheel speed. The sound is definitely coming from the differential.
Bronco axle - YouTube ....
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T Limited. The 1st. problem is in the steering. Low speeds driving around a parking lot I hear steering knocking noise when turning the steering wheel in either direction.
2nd problem when going over a little rough bumpy roads sounds like the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off. allot of banging noise felt into the steering wheel.
3rd problem sometimes when driving I hear a metal pop sound coming from under the rear of the car.
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I have a '95 F-250 7.3 auto 4X4. The transfer case linkage has been floppy and prone to coming apart since I've had it, but that's been fine for me. I let my brother use the truck last weekend, and now it does the following: When you put the transmission in reverse, or when the truck overruns the engine (compression braking) it grinds badly like the transfer case isn't quite engaged. Only does it in 2 or 4 Hi, and everything's normal otherwise.
Could the transfer case have jumped out of gear while he was driving it, and he didn't know to either push it into gear or pull it into neutral before it did damage? I really don't want to pull a transfer case in my driveway in December in New England, but give it to me straight.
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Attached is a link to the video I made : 2008 F150 5.4 Noise - YouTube...
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What is the black felt discs inside the cut out of the air intake assembly tube that goes to the air filter assembly?
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I bought this 2010 f150 from the company I work for, front diff was shot, front drive shaft was in the bed, that's all I knew about the truck so I bought a complete front diff from a used place, it only has 58000km on it, good diff... So I installed the diff and the old front drive shaft, which doesn't seem to be in the best condition, now when 4 wheel drive is engaged I'm getting a constant clunk/binding noise from the front driveshaft area. Where to start looking.
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Just done a five mile journey at urban speeds (20-40mph). I find that any kind of unevenness in the road is distinctly felt inside the car. Things like drain covers. I'm not sure if this is normal or a fault?
The car is a new to me 07 ls460 with air suspension, 19" wheels and fairly new Dunlop Sport tyres. I've set the car to comfort mode.
I'm thinking that I should get the suspension checked out, so if there is something wrong hopefully I can get the dealer to rectify it now. Are there any particular things to check?
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?
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About 9 months ago heard a strange noise when shifted into 4 wd , sounded like driving over those grooves on the side of the highway to keep people awake.
Had to pull over to stop , as it would not go back into 2wd with the noise still going.
Then it stopped , after shutting truck off and restarting.
Then earlier this year after trying to do it again in 4wd had bad clunking noise and was hard to get back in 2wd , I can here the shift motor engaging and the dash reads in 4wd, seems its not engaging fully in 4wd and not going back to 2wd, its a very bad clunking noise, shakes the whole truck.
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I have a BW 1345 transfer case. Does it have the shift in the fly capability? And, if so, what precautions should be taken if shifting on the fly?
Second, where can I get a "plate" or label that shows the shift pattern? I know the shift pattern, I just want to post it in my vehicle in case anyone else ever drives it and needs to use the 4 wheel drive.
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I found that my transmission was low on oil but couldn't find a leak. What I did find is that the seal in the transfer case was letting trans fluid transfer into it and then it would leak out the out put seal. I purchased the new seal and gasket and repaired it myself in about 3 hours. I removed the rear drive shaft and removed the front drive shaft from the transfer case alone or you can take it out completely if you want.
Drained transfer case unplugged wiring and one vacuum line. Unbloted from trans and removed using trans jack. The bolts are not the easiest to get to. i used a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose then used a stubby 3/8 to get them out because they are around 2 inches long. Once down I had to jack up the truck to get it out from under it. I removed the old seal and installed new one cleaned everything up and installed with a new gasket.
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2002 EB V8 4WD 3.73 make a howling noise between 50 and 65 MPH? Sounds like it is coming from the rear end.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Stratus Base with a 2.4L and an automatic transmission. The differential in this transmission has been howling for a while now and I had a mechanic look at it. He told me that there are a few teeth missing from one of the ring gears. I have a transmission from a 1997 Stratus in my shed that has a good differential in it. I know that the two transmissions themselves are not interchangeable but I have been wondering if the differential hard parts are interchangeable?
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After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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My Dad has an 08 with the V8. When driving between 50-60 mph there is a "howling" sound. It is not noticeable at speeds lower than 50 or greater than 60. The sound reminds me of what you hear with all terrain tires when they are worn or a mud tire but not quite as loud. He has replace the tires with regular street treads and the noise is still there. He has checked for worn bearings or loose heat shields and everything is as it should be. What could this be coming from? What about the center drive shaft bearing mentions in this link?
[URL] ....
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I recently purchased a 96 4WD Aerostar off of eBay, from the USPS. It runs good, has no codes stored, gas mileage is what I expected, However, it makes and intermittent howling noise. Not usually around town, but almost always after a ride on the interstate. It seems to be coming from the air intake snorkle. This week my brother called a Ford tech he knows, who suggested it might be the "hooter hose" or the Idle Air Control. I've never heard of a "hooter hose" and can't find it on google. What's going on and steps to diagnose and correct this problem?
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I may try changing the rear diff lube, as I am sure it's never been done. They say "lube for life" but no fluid can last forever, I would think.
Also, on that note... a couple years ago I had a pinion seal leaking and the shop said it was 2 quarts low when they fixed it and said "rear diff damage has probably already occurred" on the ticket. While that is possible i suppose, would think i would have major problems right away as the diff only holds 2.5 qts (IIRC). Least wise, that was probably 50k miles ago when I had it fixed.
More than likely, the mechanic was an idiot and it was only .5 qts low, as i'm 99% sure that they left the pinion nut loose when he did the job. (had a terrible vibration that mysteriously went away when i brought it back for them to find out what is going on .. they said they didn't do anything, but it was fixed when i got it back ... they don't get my business anymore)
Anyway ... would i be able to feel that clutch chatter with one rear wheel in the air and the trans in neutral? Assuming the worst case scenario, and the TC clutch is going out, how big of a deal is it? Can i get another 20K-30K out of it before it gives up the ghost?
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I have a 1995 jeep Cherokee country that has 130k miles. I have notice that when I shift from park to drive, park to reverse, drive to reverse or vice versa It makes this thud noise after placing it in gear. Is this a sign that the transmission is about to go out ? What action should I take? By the way its a automatic transmission
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