Ford Transmission :: 1994 - Rear End Locks Up When Hot?
Jul 18, 2012
1994 3.0L 5 speed Splash. 77K original miles, but sat in driveway for about a year without being run. Got it running and all seemed good. My brother-in-law was going to take it to his house (bigger city) to sell. After about 30 miles or so rear wheels 'locked up' as he was starting out from a stop sign. Carolina summer, temps 95+ at the time. Truck wouldn't move, even in neutral. He had to leave it to make it back to work in time; several hours later when I went to meet a tow truck I could shift it into neutral and it rolled fine.
Took it home, pulled the rear wheels, and cleaned the rust off of drums and e-brake. Thought that was the problem, seemed to be working fine. Then when I took it into town for errands (maybe 20 miles each way), I got home and it did the same thing at the top of the driveway. 'Locked up' and couldn't drive it or even roll it in neutral. After several hours I could back it down the driveway but heard some funky rattling noises from underneath the truck, almost like nuts & bolts rolling around a steel pan. Checked the manual transmission fluid level and it took nearly a quart. Shifts and drives fine but I still hear the rattling at times when it's in gear. I'm afraid to drive it very far in case it locks up again.
I'm a mechanical novice, but here's what it seems like:
1) Not the brakes after all.
2) Clutch seems ok.
3) Heat seems to be an issue. Only locked up after driving at several miles in hot weather, and then ok after cooling down for awhile.
Could the fluid level being down 1/3 have lead to the symptoms I experienced? Not enough in there & something locking up after heat reached a certain point? If so , what might have locked up? Is there something we might be able to do in the driveway to further diagnose?
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I got the preload on the pinion just about perfect (24 in-lbs). I put the end caps and spacers in the same exact place as they came off. But as soon as I tighten down the end caps, the rear end just locks up. It will not turn through.
I have taken the carrier out and put it back in several times to make sure I haven't missed something. But I always get the same thing.
By the way, it is a 8.8" 3.31 rear end that is in a 2000 Ford Expedition.
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So I've been away a long time. My sister recently bought a 1997 Ford Explorer with the V8. When she tries to turn on the cruise she says it throws the transmission in to neutral and then locks the gas pedal...
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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It seems that every time I put the truck into 4 low, the rear axle locks up. When turning, one tire skips no difference which way I turn. When doing this, I do not have the front hubs locked. Also noticed that when turning in 2wd one tire will spin w/o other locking up. I have spun the tire enough for the L/S to catch, but hasn't. I have heard that the locker was not available until years later. Is this true?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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My 1994 Ranger keeps shifting in and out of overdrive. It will go into OD easily, but it keeps downshifting, then shifting back up constantly. If I go up hill, if will downshift and stay in drive, but on a flat stretch, it wont stay in OD. It works fine when its cold, but after it warms up, then the shift problem begins. What do I do?
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My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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I have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.
I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.
I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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This morning I went to go to work, started to back out of the drive, and the transmission locked up. So I go to put it in first gear, let off the clutch, and the engine bogs down like its in 5th gear. I then decided I will just push it back in the drive, so I put it in neutral, let off the clutch, and its still in a gear while in neutral. Last night it drove fine before parking it, and then when waking up its broke. What could be wrong?
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1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
[URL]
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The last couple of times hauling wood with a trailer, the 1994 Explorer seemed to seriously lack power. Then I noticed there was an awful grinding noise coming from the rear. My guess is that the wheel bearings are shot creating an enormous amount of extra drag, especially with the added load of the trailer. Or what else could it be? How much should I expect to pay to have bearings replaced?
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My wife and I have a 1986 Cutlass Ciera with an engine size 4 -151, 2.5L engine with 41,749 original miles. Right after the transmission shifts at around 30-35 mph it locks up (for a lack of a better word.) This lock up can continue to about 40 mph. It feels like it 'misses or hesitates' until I let off the gas and increase speed again by going faster than 40 mph.
The GM service department said there was a recall sometime ago to solve this problem but the fix was only for the larger 4 liter engine and to use this fix would damage the cars engine. They said it was not a transmission problem and that we will probably have to 'live' with this condition which is more a nusiance then anything else. They go on to say this condition will not harm the engine. Are they right with their answer or can something actually be done to fix this problem? Other than this the car runs great. It has been tuned up, all belts and hoses replaced, new thermostat, etc.
Also, when we turn on the ignition, the engine would race at 2,000 rpm until we let it warm up and then put it in gear at 1000 rpm. A new thermostat keep the idle from going so fast when we start the car. Is the fast idle normal for this age of a car or could something be done for this also.
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I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.
When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.
I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.
Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
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I have a 94 Explorer. I recently swapped over from auto to manual hubs. I followed a detailed write-up that I found online. During the process I repacked my outer wheel bearings. Ever since then I hear a grinding noise coming from the front wheels. Sounds like the bearings aren't seated properly. The guide that I followed instructed to torque the spindle nut that sits next the the outer wheel bearing really tight in order to seat the bearing, then loosen it back up and hand tighten it. But when I loosened the spindle nut the wheel bearing would pop back out. What is the best way to get a wheel bearing to stay seated properly?
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