I been working on this unit and I running into this
no foward
no reverse
no foward in and gear at all
I have to check pump pressure
I'm changing fluid and filter
1994 F53 460 CID will not move in drive or reverse - iRV2 Forums
I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
View 2 Replies1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...
The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.
Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.
Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.
This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.
I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
View 13 RepliesI have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 ford aerostar van that i recently acquired through some family,when i got it it was running fine but has recently started having troubles.The Question i have is this i put my car in drive or reverse and push the gas pedal the car doesn't move.....we have tried putting transmission fluid into it and that worked temporarily. What it could be except just a bad transmission?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.
I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.
I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.
I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
I have a 2008 GS350. Been having brake clicking when I move from reverse to drive and lately been happening more when driving regularly. Brought it in to Lexus to get the complimentary 19-point inspection and they said I needed new brake pads and rotors. I did do a search and found it can be issues with front spindles, sway bar, bushings.
View 5 RepliesI replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.
What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.
I just changed my oil in my mk4 jetta 1.8L and after draining the oil, changing filer, and adding new oil, the car will not move in drive or reverse. Once I give it gas it will move but that's at the higher rpms. I am almost positive I didn't remove the transmission oil but I am just not sure.
View 12 RepliesWhen I started my car and put it in reverse, it didn't move. It felt like my front, right wheel was in a divet or was being blocked somehow (intuitively it seemed like if I accelerated enough, it would eventually move, but since there was nothing physically stopping it - that I could see - I didn't want to break something by doing that). I tried putting it in drive and neutral and the same issue was still there. I put the car up on a jack and checked one wheel at a time - I could move each wheel completely around in both directions.
I could move the steering wheel all the way to the right and to the left. I tried turning off the 4-wheel drive and that didn't do anything. At this point I'm concerned it could be the transmission or the drive shaft, but I'm not sure what to look for in order to know if I need to get it towed to a shop (hoping I can avoid this) or if there's a simple test I can do, or a way to "reset" something if it may be locked. I haven't had anything happen to the car that would have been of concern.
Last night I backed up out of a parking space and when I put it in drive it wouldn't move. It seemed like the transmission was locked up. What happened? The truck was running fine. It's a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 with auto transmission. Getting it serviced? I'm tempted to go to a dealer. What the problem is? Repair costs? The fluid looks good - no burning smell.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 76 F-250 4x4 C6 and the transmission has been kind of quirky since I've owned it. I'm starting to tow with it occasionally and I'd like to get this sorted out. It only has issues cold. After 5 minutes at most its good to go, probably more like 2-3 minutes. After that it works 100% as it should.
When cold, reverse is really weak. If I fire it up cold and go for reverse it will hardly move. If I put it in neutral and run it at 2000rpm for about 30 seconds it will pull but still weak. And after getting out on the road 1st and 2nd are great but 3rd gear is basically non-existent, all slip. I just hold it in 2nd for a few minutes then its fine. There are absolutely no issues when it warms up. I was towing my Bronco with it and absolutely no slippage at all. I'm dealing with it for now. Don't back up when cold and hold it in 2nd for a bit when cold only. That or rev it before reverse etc.
I have adjusted the band. I have never changed the fluid. I did buy new fluid for it but have not done it. Who knows that kind of fluid is even in it. The fluid is a little dark but its really not that bad and doesn't smell burnt. I'm in the market for a 4 door super duty so I might just have to limp it along until then.
1996 F250. I think its a Ford works great until yesterday. Put it in reverse had to rev it up to get it to move and when it did kind shook and sliped an does back up but doesn't like it....
View 5 Repliesi have a 1994 nissan quest 3.0 v6 and when i put it in reverse or drive it will slip into neutral if i am stopped. Also the front motor mount needs to be replaced, which I will do soon. Are these problems related, if not how do i fix the shifter/linkage problem? When driving the vehicle upshifts and downshifts perfectly.
View 1 RepliesI had a problem with the CV Axle and the Wheel Bearings. I replaced them already and I ran into another issue with the Wheel Studs and the Ball Joint, so I ended up replacing them as well. Yesterday I put everything back together after replacing all the parts mentioned before and I made sure everything was bolted down and tightened, and then the tire back on and lowered the jack. I started up my car expecting it to drive just fine and it was harder to get into gear than before and it wouldn't move in reverse, neutral, or drive. I called a Monroe Muffler around here and they told me that the CV Joint is probably not seated all the way inside the Transfer Case.
So later the same day I took everything back apart and made sure that I put the CV Joint back into the Transfer Case and I put the pin back in and made sure that both CV Axles would turn at the same time, which they did. I figured it was good so I put it all back together again and went through the same process as before, making sure everything was tightened down, all the bolts and nuts and pins were where they needed to be. Everything seemed to be good. I put the tire back on again, lowered the jack, started the car and attempted to drive it again. It still won't move. Why this is happening.
My transmission has recently locked itself up in reverse. The shifter can easily shift through 1st-5th but if i attempt to drive forward it is still in reverse and works against each other. If shifter is left in neutral position it is still in reverse. If i push the clutch in the truck will move freely. I have taken the cover off of the tranny and all of the gears appear undamaged. It was dry however, and i replenished the trans fluid but it still is stuck in reverse. baffled.
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