Ford Transmission :: 1994 F150 - Leaking Fluid From Bell Housing
Oct 13, 2012
Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
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New to me truck has 80k on it, it's leaking at the bell housing. Pulled the inspection plate and it's definitely red stinky automatic transmission fluid. Back of the torque converter is clean.
Ford warranty has run out, however I do have an aftermarket warranty on the truck. Trans temp isn't above normal or running hot.
I'm a very mechanically inclined engineer, I do not work on cars for a living, but I have replaced an input shaft seal on a 4wd transmission before. That's my best guess as to what's leaking. Is this a common issue?
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Noticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
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Getting a chirping noise coming from (i think) the bell housing. a few small chirps at start up, then constant after about 1300rpm, eventually gets high enough and drowns out behind the exhaust that i cant hear it.
Possible flywheel issue? I've uploaded a video to try and illustrate the issue. 1996 ford explorer XLT 4.0.
Just replaced starter a few weeks ago, but this problem was happening before. I dont know if it was as prominent and got worse, or if im just now noticing it and focusing on it.
1996 Ford Explorer bell housing chirp. Flywheel? - YouTube
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Only when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
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So I have a bit of an oil leak, bell housing drips once or twice while it is parked for a day or so and usually has a drip hanging off of it. Where the starter mounts also has some oil and there is some of the driver side. The valley is totally dry and I have new CAC boots so it isn't coming from up there. When I look through the inspection port it doesn't look like it is from the rear main. I figure this leaves either bedplate or cam/crank sensor. Any thoughts on how to narrow it down further? Maybe put dye in the oil? It looks somewhat oily up by the cam sensor but it is so hard to see that thing I can't tell very well.
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The same day that I noticed my coolant temp was running high as I was driving around in my 2011, i was driving around in my corn field cutting wood and i noticed i was dragging something under the truck. when i got out and looked under the truck, there was coolant running down all over the bell housing and oil pan. i was a bit worried that it was my head gaskets leaking but once i got it in the shop and looked at the heads, all looked good. i wasnt sure where it was coming from! so i looked up common coolant leaks on the 6.7 on youtube.
First video was one of the coolant line on the turbo leaking. so i crawled up on top and shoved a mirror down by the turbo and sure enough i could see coolant leaking around the connector fitting coming out of the turbo. apparently the gasket goes bad around this fitting allowing it to leak. i was just wondering if this is really that common of an issue? I did the work myself. and its not really that hard to get to the turbo, its just time consuming removing all the crap around it. all i had to do was remove some connectors that were attached to the plastic intake and remove the intake then you can reach into that fitting. total time was around 2.5 hours.
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Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
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My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
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I have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
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I changed the oil on my '98 Ranger 4.0L V6 yesterday and noticed a little bit of coolant on the bottom of the bell housing. It wasn't much (yet), but it was trickling down from above on the driver's side. I couldn't see clearly behind the engine on top without removing some stuff, but I could see where it looked like it was dripping onto the bell housing, ca.3/4 of the way up on the driver's side. Where the leak may be and how to fix it? As I said, it's only a couple drops now, but I'd like to nip it in the bud.
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I have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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I had a small leak in my 94 Explorer which was getting on the compressor pulley and being splattered around the engine compartment. The fluid was green like antifreeze--which didn't make sense; why would antifreeze be leaking from the air con compressor? But as an experiment, I got a non-AC belt and ran the truck without the compressor pulley turning, and the leak has stopped! The level in the coolant overflow tank has dropped an inch or two in the last 500 or so miles. Is it possible that antifreeze is getting into the air con system somehow, like through an internal leak in the heater core?
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My 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
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Came out of a turn, went to grab third, clutch went to the floor and didn't come back. Stopped, pumped pedal for a bit, managed to get into first and milked it home. There's nothing leaking, but fluid level was low. I topped fluid, pumped pedal and bled the block at the tranny, pressure came up and I was able to engage gears. Pulled into garage and same issue, no pressure and clutch won't disengage. Pedal is soft. I'm thinking I managed to get some air in the system. Question is if the slave failed, wouldn't I have a leak at the bell housing?
Do I have to drop the tranny to bleed the slave? Also, my stock clutch on APR stage 1 was doing ok before this issue. There was chatter and/or other noises in the clutch at take off but no real issue with slipping. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace the clutch. I'll be dropping the trans on a rack in my friends shop.
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I have a motor oil leak on a 1991 Chevrolet S10 pickup, 2WD, 2.8L, manual transmission.
The leak is around the bell housing area. The oil covers the bell housing and the transmission.
I think it is either the rear main seal or the back of the oil pan gasket. But how can I know for sure? It is difficult to see the back of the oil pan.
Would the oil INSIDE the bell housing be proof positive that it is the rear main seal? I have not looked inside yet.
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I am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
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I just recently had to replace the extension housing on my truck. Well after doing so I went to start it up and top off the tranny fluid and it started to leak out on the left rear side of the transmission near the extension housing. Ive looked and looked and found that the fluid is coming from the top right in front of the extension housing but when i clean it off there seams to be no holes or cracks. It isn't the housing seal, cause it pools in front of that. What could be the issue? My truck is a 01 F250 4X4 5.4L.
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I have a 94 Celica 2.2. I'm having issues with power steering fluid leaking from reservoir cap. I replaced the cap due to the old ones seal had dry rotted and dip stick was broke off, also replaced the 2 small short hoses and new clamps. The return hose is working right and the high pressure hose seems to be working right. None of the hoses are leaking but pressure is building up and pushing fluid out the reservoir cap. What else could be the problem to cause this??
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