Ford Transmission :: 1994 - E4OD Trans Rebuild - Clutch Thicker Than New One?


Feb 11, 2014

1994 E4OD Transmission.

Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.

Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.

So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?

The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.

I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.

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having never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????

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Last weekend my 95 F350 developed an issue where it feels like something in the transmission is dragging in reverse and it moves forward in neutral. This happened suddenly. One minute it was working fine and the next it was acting up. I found some info that leads me to believe that it might be the coast clutch solenoid causing the problem. Today I tested the resistance of the coast clutch solenoid through the PCM connector. I used pin 55 and pin 37 to test it. The resistance is supposed to be between 20 and 30. I got 0. My meter read the same as putting the leads together.

Am I correct in thinking that I need a new solenoid pack or at least a coast clutch solenoid?

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My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.

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Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.

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A while back I picked up a 1994 Bronco with a bad tranny for a flip. I recently picked up a 1993 E4OD that seemed to work well with low miles to throw in it.

I got it in the Bronco but it does not work right. If you put it in drive if feels like it's taking off in 3rd or 4th gear pull the shifter down one notch and it feels like 2nd gear pull it down again into 1st and no change. It bangs into reverse really hard. When up shifting manully it bangs pretty hard. No kick down at all under any circumstance and no converter lockup. I can't tell if it's in OD or third gear when at highway speed. OD button on the shifter has no effect but the light does go on and off.

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The Transmission dribbled a little bit from the front pump seal a couple weeks ago, I checked the level, it was a bit low. Topped it off with Lucas, the dribble stopped. I drove it successfully for another week. I took it on a 10 mile trip, and 5 miles in, it started slipping above, 35mph, I let off the accelerator, and the transmission "Caught up" and I drove 35mph the rest of the trip. I let it sit over night.

The next morning it acted as if nothing were wrong. I drove it some more, and the same thing happened. I parked it, and revved the engine up a bit, and it tried to MOVE in park, I put it in neutral and revved the engine, and it lurched as if it were still in 1rst gear.

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I parked it for a couple hours and went to go do the errands, and it wouldn't make it above 15mph. It even struggled to do that much. I put it in reverse, and it held great, no slipping at all.

Let it sit until the next morning, and it was better. I pulled the Codes, and it gives me a 63(7) TOT High, and a 62(9) Torque Converter Clutch. It may or may not be relative, but Cruise hasn't worked in about 6 months either. What am I missing here? What could possibly causing this trouble? Fluid is up and new.

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My rig is a 1995 F-250 Powerstroke 4x4 with 150k on the clock and an E4OD. It has been well maintained and no major work performed aside from glow plugs recently... That was fun! But that's another story...

The issue: Irregularly and randomly over the last year or so the truck has had a problem going into drive. I'll hop in, put it in Drive and nothing. It's like its in Neutral. It is also the same in 1 and 2. If I put it in Reverse, I can feel it engage and the starts to go in reverse. When it has this drive issue, the only thing that I can do to make it go is to give it some fuel and idle it up. Then it slowly engages and its fine.

Last night it did this... But this time when I could only get it to go by putting it in first and then giving it fuel... It slowly engaged.

Overall its done this maybe five or six times over the last year and doesn't seem to be getting worse. Sometimes it will go for a month with no issue.

This has happened when its warm or cold so I'm not sure heat is an issue. About 10,000 miles ago the transmission was flushed / full service. Oh, and the ATF level is exactly where it should be. My biggest fear is that the transmission needs a rebuild. One local shop quoted me $4200 to rebuild it. What I'm looking for is to know if there is a simpler and cheaper fix. I'm not really interested in a rebuild, unless that is the only option.

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I was wondering should I find metal in my pan after a rebuild on my AOD? It's been about 4 months since the rebuild and i took it in to have the fluid changed at another shop. Now the unit is doing fine but I did let the shop that did the rebuild know what was found.

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After this second rebuild it seems to be doing pretty good all except for it wanting to shift in and out of overdrive for no reason. I can have the cruise set on anywhere from 50-65 and when I start up a VERY slight hill it will downshift to third. I know that this engine has plenty of torque to maintain its speed up these small hills without downshifting so something isn't right. On this last rebuild our mechanic contacted Banks about the trans command and they told him to wrap the exhaust pipe with insulation to keep some of the heat off of the module under there and that seemed to work some.

(It shifts better than at first except for going in and out). Another thing that might be interesting is when it was first rebuilt this last time it had a problem with jerky shifts and the tranny light would come on. Our mechanic had to replace some sort of sensor in the tranny that kept breaking. He did this about three times and since he wrapped the exhaust it hasn't happened again. I hope I made everything clear for everyone to understand.

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