Ford Transmission :: 1994 - Barely Engage - Grinding Noise In Park And Neutral?


Dec 27, 2005

I have a 1994 F-150 extended cab electronically activated 4x4, with the 302 V8 and an e4od transmission.

When the truck is running and it is in park or neutral it makes a grinding/whining noise and when it is in gear it doesn't engage, or occasionally will barely engage, but only enough to move it a little ways.

I've read a couple of post that suggested bad connections to the transmission could cause the transfer case to be in neutral which could cause a similar problem to this. I checked all the connection the best I could and the only thing I found that gave me any concern was one of the wires connected to the transfer case shift motor had some of the insulation melted or rubbed of and the wire was a bit corroded.

Is there any chance that this could be causing my overall problem with the truck not driving? Or what might be going on with it? Or any way I might be able to fix it without having to hand over a significant chunk of change for the full rebuild.

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Ford Transmission :: Extreme Grinding Noise In Neutral And Park

My Dad has a 01 f150 xtended cab 5.4 auto. Some of this info is second hand. He had driven it on a trip about 50 miles,when he started it to return he said it did not want to engage, put it in gear and nothing happened. Messed with it a bit and got it to go. was fine for about 30 miles or so. Then it started to make noise. I trailered it home and drove it a couple hundred yards to the shop. It sounds like a very large, very dry bearing, also seemed to catch/lock up then clunk.

With the wheels off the ground you can kick it into neutral and while the wheels are still rolling it quiets down. Also it does it sometimes while in neutral. When it is in park it sounds like stuff is still turning. At fist I thought wheel bearing or rear end until it made noise in neutral and park. The noise in park is not loud, just sounds like things are turning. It is full of fluid. The tranny has always worked flawlessly and still does even with the noise. Where to start looking? Transfer case?

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I've got a 2001 E350 van with the 5.4 triton and 4R100 transmission in it. Has about 130,000 miles on it. I was doing some work under it a couple of days ago and noticed a rattling noise coming from the front of the bell housing. I can't hear it sitting in the vehicle or standing next to it but it's pretty scary sounding with my face under the inspection cover.

Shifting is smooth no noticeable problems there. Tranny fluid looks good, not burnt. After further investigation the noise is only present in park or neutral. In drive it goes away. In park it takes a few minutes of warm up for it to begin starting as a light tap tap, eventually working its way up to a clatter once warm. I know the 99 4r100 had some TC issues that sounded like this. It sounds like it's in front of the TC so I'm thinking the flex plate maybe?

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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.

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When I restarted, it grinded in Park, OK past Reverse, Grinded in Neutral, and then OK in Drive. How serious this is, or if there is anything I can check out on my own?

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I have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.

I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.

I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.

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Just a little background, my Ex is a 2000 V10 4x4 with 217,000 miles. I've owned it for a little under a year. Very clean truck, and well maintained by previous owner. Now the issue. Starting about a month after I bought it, it would occasionally hesitate to engage drive from park. I checked fluid and it was full and clean. I had a buddy recommended that I check for chafed wires in the steering column which I did and found nothing. It seemed to get better for a while but now it's back. It's doing it more than half the time I put it in drive and sometimes takes 10-15 seconds to engage. So am I probably looking at a new trans? Or, is there anything that can be done to save the old trans?

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Looking for your collective expertise

2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):

Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).

This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.

Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).

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Car has been working fine but yesterday the transmission just wouldn't engage. The engine was running fine. I've just been using it as my around town car so probably put about 5K miles on it a year at this point. It has small dent in the bumper and the interior is fine but old.

I'm tempted to replace the transmission because it is an easy (albeit expensive) solution, and less work (and money) than looking for another used car with an unknown history. But does it make any sense? I've replaced the exhaust, tires and battery recently. When might the engine start giving me trouble?

1994 Camry Wagon, 215k miles,

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Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:

D26W0
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I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.

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Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?

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I have a Hyundai Tuscon 2005 with 140K automatic transmission. Original Owner and has treated me well. Current issue is the transmission will not engage in reverse or park immediately when shifted most notably first thing in the morning or in the late evening after sitting for a while. It acts as if it is in neutral until it engages after revving the engine for a while. Once it engages, it is a little sporadic for a few minutes and then all is fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I start, stop or turn the car on or off.

Runs like a champ until the next morning and it starts all over again. A couple of times the check engine light has come on and I can tell that the transmission is stuck in 3rd gear. I can't manually get it to go up to 4th or down to 1 or 2. I can clear the code and then all is back to normal again with normal shifting again available. Short of a transmission rebuild (whihe probably won't happen) could it be electronic in nature since it comes and goes?

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so i towed my car to the shop, they said my clutch went out and i "lost first and REVERSE gear".... is that possible?!

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