Ford Transmission :: 1993 F250 - Sometimes No Shift Until Lift The Throttle
Dec 1, 2013
I have a 93 F250 diesel 4X4 with the automatic, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop les than 10000. miles ago, every few months it will act up, it will act like I put it in neutral then it slams back in gear, then it shifts very hard, sometimes it will not shift until i lift the throttle. Sometimes I can shut it off and when i start it again it will be back to normal, other times it will do this for a few days, then work fine for another month or two.
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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I just came across a deal on a 93 E350 motorhome for dirt cheap. It has a whine at 50 mph and believe its the rear end. The whine is under throttle not coast.
There is a tag on the axle housing that reads :
4:10 a diamond shape 2US AC
760553
Is this a Dana 60? Looks like a Dana.
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I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
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A friends son just bought a 94 powerstroke. auto trans. it will not shift out of first unless you let off throttle. but once in second it shifts fine, until you stop and go back to first. I am thinking bad or sticking second gear solenoid, but do not want to give bad info.
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I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I have a 1993 corolla auto trans and when I first try to take it out of park it will not shift. I noticed that when I push the brake pedal to the floor it finally shifts. I recently replaced the brake switch, could the adjustment be a problem?
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190000 miles... Driving on the highway my car began to vibrate and lose speed. I had to shift out of overdrive before I could get the car to respond again. It continued to feel incredibly impeded. I could not push the car over 65mph and couldn't remain at speed going uphill. From a dead stop, the car accelerates incredibly slow in any gear. The engine feels impeded even in P and N almost like the trans does not disengage.
The trans will downshift and kick up RPM when the pedal is put to the floor like normal. What could be causing the trouble and how much it could cost to have repaired? I have checked the trans fluid in park at op temp and it's perfect. No fluid is leaking from the car. Car feels like it's in drive and I'm holding the brakes while hitting the gas... even in P and N so I don't think it could be brakes.
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I am getting a vibration when I lift off of the throttle and again when I press the throttle. What causes this. Also what is the normal operation of the 4x4 system is this a true all wheel drive system with a 2 speed t-case or is this the normal old control trac that I had in my 98 4.0.
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Problems with my 2001 F250 4r100 transmission. Transmission will only shift to 2nd gear when throttle is feathered at @2500 rpm. All other gears shift perfectly. This problem is consistent.
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1999 F250 super duty 5.4L 4x4 103000 miles. Just started yesterday going to work will not shift out of first.
I can pedal shift it. and then it is ok till come to stop . Start all over again.
Trans 4R100 automatic
Trans has never been touch from day one .
No engine light and nothing on shifter as for flashing light.
I would like to no what the problem is and about what it would cost to fix I am not going to try to fix this myself i can not do that.
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Well I Took my truck (1985 F250 6.9L IDI C6) and went through a little mud bog got some water in the tranny, no biggy i flushed the fluids out a couple times and went to drive it. But now it wont shift from 1st to 2nd but i can manually shift it from 1-2 I replaced the Modulator and that havent made a difference. Is there anything I should look into?
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On my 96' F-250 4x4, The tranny will shift to 3rd gear and that's it. If I put it in Neutral and then back into drive it will stay in 4th gear for about 15 seconds then go back to 3rd. What could be causing that?
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
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2005 Ford F250 4x4 XL 5.4L 5R110W WITH 177,600 MILES... Tow Haul light flashed after 78 miles (along with other codes) after purchased. I purchased it used. While driving transmission would stop pulling as if it went into neutral and slam back into gear, at same time Tow Haul light be flashing...
Code is P0760 shift solenoid #3, I read from the forums on the site one caused could be the ground wire. We installed a ground strap from battery to tranny
Still does the same.
I have a shift solenoid ordered if needed, knowing the location of #3 solenoid in the tranny is the key to not having to keep dropping the pan. I love this site and have been reading it for long time.
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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im trying to lift my truck to clear 44's its a 88 f250 ext cab long bed, I will be using a dana 60 front and stearling 10 1/4 rear, if I get 6 inch lifted leafs front n back with my 3 inch body lift is 9 inchs enouph? If not will it be atleast high enough for 40s?
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