Ford Transmission :: 1993 F250 E4od Limp Mode But No Codes
Jul 15, 2015
Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
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I was driving home. Problems started after pulling away from a 4-way stop. Truck started lunging almost like I was running out of fuel. Then I got a "Transmission Malfunction" in the in dash display. Followed by limp mode. I checked the Faults when I got home. I have the following:
P0720 - Powertrain - Output speed sensor Circuit
P2106 - Powertrain - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power (From what I understand this is associated with limp mode. Not a root of the problem)
P0713 - Powertrain - Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor Circuit High Input
P0722 - Powertrain - Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
The vehicle has around 192,000 mi. Replaced cam phasers in upper engine roughly 1000 miles ago and replaced all the bearings in the rear differential roughly 100 mi ago. I haven't messed with anything on the transmission. Checked fluid level and color of transmission fluid.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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Turn air conditioner on transmission goes into limp mode??
1999 ranger 2 door 2,5 engine long wheel base,,auto trans.
2wd no power windows no power seats....
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While exiting the interstate just now my 2011 f250 just went in to limp mode going up the ramp and cut off. I am sitting at the top of a very busy exit truck won't restart .
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2001 Ranger 3.0 liter has developed a transmission casualty. I was driving along at 30 mph and the transmission went into "limp' mode with O/D light flashing and truck will only barely creep along with high engine rpm. When I got the truck home I was able to retrieve a p0720, output shaft speed sensor signal fault. I had hoped that replacing the sensor would solve this casualty.
Of course this was not the case. I have read all the posts I can find for this particular fault and realize that I must electrically trace the continuity of this circuit and also ensure that it's not grounded. I have been unable to find the needed wiring diagrams or pin out information.
Before I have to try and blindly start pawing through the connectors I'm looking for the pinout for the PCM and perhaps the bulk connector above the engine between the PCM and the transmission wiring harness. I am also keen to hear of any diagnostic tips that I may have overlooked.
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My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
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I am looking at buying a 91 f250 4x4 with a 5.0 and an e4od. When I start the truck I can feel It roll forward A little bit. I can put the trans In od or nuetral and It will drive and shift normally thru all 4 gears, no slipping and no noise no vibration, It shifts and acts perfectly normal. 1st and 2nd work fine as well. When I put it in reverse It rolls forward slightly then drops Into reverse, it will not actually back up, you can rev the engine to stall speed but no higher. Sometimes in park If you rev the engine It will actually over come the parking pawl and roll forward.
Also when In park I can rev the engine to stall speed only. It only starts in p or n, and the reverse lights come on in R so Im assuming the mlps is adjusted properly and the manual protion is adjusted properly. I pulled codes and had 3 in total, ect shorted, egr flow insufficient, and 1 code for torque convertor clutch solenoid I believe It was 632. Im assuming the reving up to stall speed Is related to the tc code. The fluid level Is fine but is a little dark In color, I tried doing a search with no luck ..
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I just got an Egde Evo which I installed and everything looked great. After a few runs, I noticed the ABS light coming on an soon after that my transmission goes to limp mode (the wrench lights up).
I receive the DTC error: P2106 on the Edge Evo.
I have gone back to Factory default, but it keeps coming back, ie. the ABS light lights up and the Trans goes to Forced Limited Power (according to the Evo).
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My Jetta mkiv transmission went into limp mode recently. Took it into shop. They checked it out and they replaced solenoids as well as the TCU. Car still goes into limp mode. It doesn't happen all the time but enough to piss me off. Any thoughts?? Car only has 140000 miles.
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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I have been having trouble with the shift solenoid and the trans going into limp mode. I recently replaced the shift solenoid and I now have the same problem but just when the temp outside is above 90 F or when I sit in traffic or idle for more than 3 or 4 minutes. The same code p0758 comes back up. I was thinking maybe the temp sensor?
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My tranny is stuck in limp mode. I can manually shift it, but it won't shift on it's own. The 'automatic' part of the automatic transimission is definitely not working right.
I searched and checked for the usual suspects, low battery or alternator output (measured over 14v at batt. when on), and the range selector switch. I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. It looked like it was in decent shape inside, although it appeared to have had a bit of oil of some sort that had leaked into it. There was a bit of oil on that side of the tranny, around the gear selector and switch, but not enough to actually drip as I don't have any stains on my driveway where I always park. The only thing I haven't checked is the atf fluid level, as I can't seem to find the my wrench that will take off the fill nut. I'll get that figured out tonight.
The tranny hasn't been taken care of like it should, I've had the fluid replaced two or three times over 100k of ownership, but I'm not sure about the filter. Would the need for a filter and fluid change cause it to go into limp mode? Also, it's not throwing any CEL codes either.
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33K and no problems until this morning. Wife gets 400 yards down the street, car "lurches" and goes into limp mode. Transmission won't shift out of whatever gear its stuck in (going forward) Car will back up. Only indication of any possible trouble is occasionally the very first time the transmission shifts in the morning from 1st into 2nd its a little spirited rather than silky smooth.
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Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
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My transmission control module has gone bad, resulting in the car being in"limp" mode. I am advised not to drive the car in this condition as it starts out in 3rd and the transmission will be damaged. Thus far, my local dealer has, on a preliminary basis, been advised that there are none of these parts available anywhere in the world according to the computer and VW may have to manufacture one. This does not sound possible. Meanwhile, the dealer says no rental car will be offered so I am contacting VW North America to escalate. It could be up to a month to get a new part. Meanwhile, the car is in the garage just sitting.
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So yesterday, this had happened for the third time in 3 years owning this car. Unhooking the battery for 20-30 minutes resets the computer and it is ready to go for a while with no issues. This has become annoying though. What is causing the car to enter "limp" mode and stay in third gear? One time it happened, I brought it to AutoZone and they did a scan and came up with the speed sensor. I haven't replaced it because it didn't happen for a while after that.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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