Ford Transmission :: 1993 F250 - E4OD Is Shifting Hard
Jun 11, 2013
I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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This has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I have seen a few threads about E4OD's and there valve issues just want to narrow down to a valve issue or if it needs a rebuild. I can shift threw all gears i just have lag going into 3rd. also when putting it in reverse it takes about 5 seconds to finally drop into reverse. This is also accompanied with P0782 2-3 shift malfunction.
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I have a 1997 f250hd that shifts into 4th at about 25mph and lugs the motor down, then shift back to 3rd (maybe its 2nd and 3rd). It will keep shifting back and forth until you get up to speed, or if i'm in town i will put it in second.
No codes but the tranny fluid is dirty. I changed the filter the other day but didn't have time to flush it as it was getting dark and the line into the tranny was pretty rusted and starting to strip. Also there was no burnt smell. I'm planning on taking it in to have it flushed this week.
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Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
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Trying to fix my 97' F-250 5.8, e4od. The e4od won't shift out of first gear half the time. It is fine when I manually select 1 or 2 when the problem happens, no check engine though. The fluid looks great and doesn't have an odor. Here is a video of it failing to shift...
YouTube....
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My son was driving my F250 (big mistake) when as he says he noticed it was leaking transmission fluid. As he was driving it he noticed fluid coming out then it just stopped working.(motor was running but transmission would not pull in any gear) We towed the truck home and let it sit for about a week. Now it will start but when I try to shift it into gear it will run through the gears but there is no action. It will not engage into any gears.
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I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
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The trans in my motor home has made a growling or slight grinding metallic noise after it shifts into 3rd gear. It only does it for maybe 3 seconds and it doesn't seem to affect the operation. Only way I can describe it is that it grinds, and shudders then goes away. I have towed my race car all this year and it has not caused any issues at all. I am planning on driving out west next year and would like to figure out what the deal is before I hit the road. Also if a rebuild was in order what improvements can be made during a rebuild?
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I just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
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I am looking at buying a 91 f250 4x4 with a 5.0 and an e4od. When I start the truck I can feel It roll forward A little bit. I can put the trans In od or nuetral and It will drive and shift normally thru all 4 gears, no slipping and no noise no vibration, It shifts and acts perfectly normal. 1st and 2nd work fine as well. When I put it in reverse It rolls forward slightly then drops Into reverse, it will not actually back up, you can rev the engine to stall speed but no higher. Sometimes in park If you rev the engine It will actually over come the parking pawl and roll forward.
Also when In park I can rev the engine to stall speed only. It only starts in p or n, and the reverse lights come on in R so Im assuming the mlps is adjusted properly and the manual protion is adjusted properly. I pulled codes and had 3 in total, ect shorted, egr flow insufficient, and 1 code for torque convertor clutch solenoid I believe It was 632. Im assuming the reving up to stall speed Is related to the tc code. The fluid level Is fine but is a little dark In color, I tried doing a search with no luck ..
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This is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
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The car wouldn't start ( just cranked a lot) I had the car towed to a local mechanic. He replaced the MAP sensor and now I've noticed 2 new problems.
1) engine idle rpms are erratic. When the car is started RPMs are at 1,500 after a few minutes they drop to normal range of 700 to 900 RPMs sometimes they drop too low and the car stalls. sometimes the RPMs surge up and down from 800 to 1,200 rpms.
2) very hard shift from 1st to 2nd gear. All the other shifts are normal. He said that he adjusted the RPMs because they were too high. I don't know how he did that because I thought that you couldn't adjust them because they are controlled by the computer.
Some other info, it has an exhaust leak (which Im going to fix) upstream of the O2 sensor, where the resonator connects to the headers. I replaced a rear brake line and while bleeding the lines I got brake fluid on the ABS wheel speed sensors. I replaced the coolant bypass hose and got water all over part of the engine compartment. It was immediately after I replaced that hose that the car wouldn't start.
Could the exhaust leak be the cause of the erratic idle rpms? Could water have gotten in a wire connector or shorted something out when I replaced the bypass hose? The bypass hose is directly above the transmission. My biggest concern is the hard shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.
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I'm trying to diagnose a problem with my dad's 93 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 with a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual transmission. It seems to not want to shift back into gear once the truck has warmed up, with 1st, 2nd and reverse being the toughest gears to get into. We've done a transmission fluid change with the required dextron/mercon substitute but the problem existed before the change and the change didn't seem to solve the problem any.
This problem didn't exist until I did a couple hundred miles of towing with it, some of which was done in 5th gear (overdrive?), so I'm hoping the 5th gear towing didn't ruin the transmission. From a cold start the transmission has no trouble shifting into any gear as well as with the engine off when either warm or cold, but with the engine idling and the truck at operating temperature it can be difficult to impossible to shift into gear, especially reverse.
I think heat has something to do with the problem because the shifts were worse a when its driven longer and during the tow/driving that was done in the last part of summer. It sat most of the time since then but we took it out today to test some things. Hot or cold the external hydraulic slave had roughly the same range of movement, but the drive line seems to jerk more noticeably like power is applied to it during a shift when its warm.
This all makes me think, even though the clutch hydraulic system is working like I think it should, that the clutch is not fully disengaging when at temp. I'm not a transmission guy so before I start throwing parts/labor at a problem.
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I have 1993 F-350, 4X4, four door with a 460 fuelie and a 4EOD. That"s a bunch of 4's! I bought this pickup with 186,000 miles on it in 2005 or so, really just to haul fire wood and go to the dump once every 6 months. I don't know if the the tranny has ever been rebuilt. Nothing else on the pickup has been rebuilt. It now has 196,000 miles on it. In the past the tranny always shifted like a stock 4EOD. Kind of slides into the first three gears then into overdrive pretty solid. I took it out to go to the dump last week and it was just like always until it took it to taco party last night and it started to shift real abrupty. Doesn't matter how fast you go, it hits just as hard if you are on the gas or just casually cruising. It is hard in every gear. My first thought was that it may be low on fluid. When it is hot, idling in park after a drive I don't see oil in the little holes on the dip stick. I see oil on the dip stick but not in the little holes. Am I correct in thinking I should see oil in the holes? Actually I will see oil in the little holes when I first pull it out, then if i wipe it, put it back in, I see no oil in the holes. Engine idling in park of course.
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i have a 1993 3/4 ton pickup 5.7 and it just started to shift rough it has to get up to 4000 rpm to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 someone told me to change the filter another person told me to check the vacume line i went under truck and found a vent tube out the side not sure what to do
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bought the truck about 3 weeks ago and still having problems with the transmission. Replaced the VSS and it didn't work. My problems are it shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, it feels like it falls out of gear ( i can floor it and the speedometer creeps up then shifts hard.) Now i read having the 3rd brake light out is a problem with the trans too, my 3rd brake light is out along with the interior dome light ( doesn't go on when doors open) i plan to replace the TRS on the tranny tmw is there anything else i can do? how do i solve the brake light problem?
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I have a 93 F250 diesel 4X4 with the automatic, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop les than 10000. miles ago, every few months it will act up, it will act like I put it in neutral then it slams back in gear, then it shifts very hard, sometimes it will not shift until i lift the throttle. Sometimes I can shut it off and when i start it again it will be back to normal, other times it will do this for a few days, then work fine for another month or two.
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