Ford Transmission :: 1993 E4OD - Trans Is Skipping Out Of Lockup For 1 - 2 Seconds And Then Goes Back To Normal Operation
Jul 11, 2014
Vehicle: 1994 TripleE RV based on Ford E350 7,3 Diesel, 70000 miles.
My trans is skipping out of lockup for 1-2 Seconds and then goes back to normal operation with lockup engaged. I am shure that it is the lockup disengaging because the increase in rpm is not as much as between gears.
This happens appr once or twice every hour when driving at normal constant highway speed. It happens both in 3rd and in OD. There is no flashing OD lamp, and the OD button is working (I use this actively when going up hill to keep up momentum and rpm)
I am not able to find out what causes this. I have replaced the speed sensor on the rear axle, the rpm sensor on the engine and the brake light switch on the brake pedal. Replaced one item at the time to be able to determine if any of these items was causing the problem. But none of them made any difference, the problem is still there. I have also inspected the harness connector on the trans and it seems fine to me.
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So I have installed a 331 stroker with an AOD trans in an early Bronco.
The question is... What is the correct procedure for getting the lock up converter to function? How does it need to be wired?
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I bought a '93 F150 4x4 this past Sunday. It has the 5.8 and E4OD. Yesterday when I started it up and drove to the tire shop for some wheel balancing, it shifted VERY hard with each shift, so hard that it concerned me. I know very little about transmissions in general, and this one specifically, aside from it being electronically controlled.
This afternoon, I drove it again and it seemed to be shifting more "normally" without shifting anywhere nearly as hard as it did yesterday. What I should check first? I bought a filter kit and will change the filter/fluid (including torque converter) as soon as I'm able.
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having never been into an E4OD, I have a quandary. I have an F-350 with a 460 engine with the E4OD trans. the trans works fine, but wouldn't go into park. I pulled the pan and tail housing and found that the thrust washer behind the park wheel had broken and dropped down to obstruct the pawl from engaging. I have no problem in tearing into a C-6 on back, but the E4OD, I'm not so sure. I had considered just pulling the trans and replacing it with a used one. I can find all kinds of trannies, but NOT the '89 to '91 that I'm told is what is needed because of the electronics. I have been told that the '87 to '97 will work but I have to swap out the electronics? is this so, and how much of a mess is that to do? OR, someone told me that it is possible to use the 4X4 trans by putting on my tail housing? doesn't sound right to me, but what do I know? any pointers????
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Alrighty now. I have a 93 f250 idi Na.
Before problems started: the truck.shifted all 4 gears fine.
Problem(s) begins: Then out of the blue(after I shut it off... even if it was for 30sec, and then turn it on ) it would go into limp mode but if I shut it off and then turn it on again, it would work fine. After about 3weeks/ 600 miles it just went straight to limp mode.
What I did: After 3-4 weeks of that, I replaced the solenoid pack(uncooked both batteries and waited 10 min before I hooked them up) with a eBay special. After that, I had 1st,....., limp 3rd, then it'd slam like check into OD. To get second(which was limp), I'd have to manually drop it in 2 and and let off the pedal before I'd put it in D, to avoid it slamming straight into OD. It would toy with limp and OD from 35mph-45mph. Then it.just went straight to limp mode again.
What I couldn't do because don't know how to solve: I went to go get the codes read and the connector was missing and only one wire was leading to where the connector should've been.
What I did...again: I replaced the control module in the firewall. Then my codes cleared up. And same problem as when I put the new solenoid pack in. But no codes.
What is it still doing????: it's a go round battle between complete limp mode, limp mode and wanting to go into gear(suited to proper mph&rpm), or 1st, limp2&3, and OD.
What I tried: TC lock-up switch.,. And it worked but didn't solve my problem so I scratched that one.
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I have an E350 1992 7.3l Diesel, with E40D. The transmission slips in the 3rd and OD position. Every time, if I want to accelerate it slips for a few seconds and then the drivetrain is correct connected. The shifting into another gear works properly, the transmissions slips by changing from free-wheeling into accelerating ( for example: at speed 90km/h and no changing the gear).
I have recognized that the oil temperature is getting higher now. That may an indication for additional losses in the transmission. What do I have to check?
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I have a 94 E350 with the 5.8 and E4od trans. The main issue I am having is the thing will just go into neutral driving down the road. It only happens for about a second. The engine revs up and I back out of the throttle and it will hook back up. It sometimes does it as it is shifting up through the gears. It also sometimes does a real hard 1-2 shift and sometimes downshifts when there is really no need. I took it to get the codes read today and there was nothing.. It is so frustrating and I baby the thing all the time because I don't want to be hard on the throttle when it loses drive.
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1994 E4OD Transmission.
Transmission was slipping terrible after vehicle warmed up. After feeling around for thoughts, it was suggested by numerous people that the transmission needed an overhaul.
Upon Disassembley the clutches were found to be excellent. They are actually thicker than the new ones in the kit. By .015" actually. Quite impressive considering they are 20 years old.
So now, I have kind of lost direction. If the original clutches are thicker than the new ones, and don't show signs of wear. What does that mean?
The fluid is pretty good, and there aren't fragments of metal. Nor is there any metallic shimmering to the color. It doesn't smell burnt or rotten either.
I have drained the torque converter and filled it with gasoline. I am going to spin it and hopefully knock any sediment loose.
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I have a 1997 f250hd that shifts into 4th at about 25mph and lugs the motor down, then shift back to 3rd (maybe its 2nd and 3rd). It will keep shifting back and forth until you get up to speed, or if i'm in town i will put it in second.
No codes but the tranny fluid is dirty. I changed the filter the other day but didn't have time to flush it as it was getting dark and the line into the tranny was pretty rusted and starting to strip. Also there was no burnt smell. I'm planning on taking it in to have it flushed this week.
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
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My vr6 some times loses its power but it's weird because the check engine light does not appear. It does for like 30 seconds then it goes back to driving normally.
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my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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Tranny fluid spews out pretty good underneath. Is it likely a broken hose? Where do I start?
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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A4LD transmission NOT RELEASING LOCKUP in both 3rd and 4th? My 1991 Ranger 4.0 will get into lockup sooner than normal(comparing the recent past), and would stay in lockup long enough to make the engine shudder when I slow down to come to a stop. (much like holding 4th gear without putting in the clutch when you approach a stop.
It doesn't die out and does shift into the proper gear but only after the RPMs dive down to probably 400 and the vehicle shudders a bit. Received and replaced the throttle position sensor today, looking to do the vacuum modulator this w/e. Any other possibilities?
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OK, this one has me stumped...I have a 93 F150, 302 with the E4OD. I know the transmission needs to be rebuilt (probably a bad pump). When I put it in reverse, the engine will start to bog down and will die unless I put it back into park or neutral.
If the engine does die, the fuel pump does not prime with the key "on" and the engine obviously will not start. If I let the truck sit for about an hour, the fuel pump primes like it should and the engine starts right up. The fuel pump shut-off does not trip and all fuses are good.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado, 5 cylinder, automatic, 4wheel drive with 62,700mi. 1st problem occurred in 2013 new thermostat was replaced then in 2015 temp. gauge shows overheating problem again. All diagnostic problems have been analyzed by mechanic and nothing further could be done. Mechanic suggests to take truck to dealer. The temp. reading still shows above normal operation and the engine compartment has signs of overheating also. If the truck driven on uphill range the temp. goes higher I refuse to drive in this condition which will surely ruin the entire engine.
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I am unable to get fuel delivery from tanks to engine in normal operation. I can however get pumps working with jumper wire to them. It will start with ether but not stay running on it's own. Could this be a relay or something in tfi thing ?
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