Ford Transmission :: 1992 E40d Starts Downshifting Only Under Heavy Acceleration
May 12, 2012
Ok long story short I was given a conversion van that is built on a e150 van and has a 5.8 liter with an e40d tranny.. This van sat for at least 3 years till recently..
I have cleaned all electric connections on the tranny and the one on the rear differential . New filter and fluid but did not drain the converter after driving it for about an hour we finally got it to start shifting gears automatically the problem is it wants to shift only under heavy acceleration and then only to second at about 35 mph and drive at about 60 mph and over drive around 80 mph and all this only under heavy acceleration you let of the gas a little and it starts down shifting..
What I may look for next that may be pretty easy to try. My thoughts at this point are maybe the torque converter is going south but I am hoping for a more simple solution..
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2005 2.OT ... Our car showed an engine light last night and when doing heavy acceleration, starts to pull or hesitate. Do not occurs when accelerating slowly, all day at dealer and they said that might be cam wear or some pressure pump. They are taking the engine covers to find out what is the issue. Cam repair and oil change. It drives smoother and no longer hard down shifting....
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I took my Phaeton in for a transmission noise and they are saying it's "normal" for V8 Touaregs and Phaetons to have this noise on downshifting under acceleration from 4th to third at around 40 MPH. Yes?
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I asked a question about the E40D a while back about a hard 1-2 shift. However, I needed to replace the shift lever to get my OD light operational again. I fixed it and the issue seemed to stop for a while, so I just forgot about it. It's back again, last time it did it, it was hard enough to make the whole truck almost buck. It was a real good bang. So, could this be the 1-2 accumulator piston or the bore it resides in?
The next question I had is how long should an E40D take to shift from second to third? I've noticed on a steep onramp with some throttle, mine can have around 2.5-3 seconds of rev before it finally shifts (unloaded). I could of sworn I watched the tach climb a hundred revs or so during this once (real steep onramp), however maybe I was just dreaming, as I've never replicated it. Just wanted some opinion on this, wondering if I need to start putting some funds aside.
The truck has about 139K and the transmission looks to be original. It was used to haul a camper and a boat most of it's life, or at least that's what I was told.
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Had tranny fluid and filter replaced a couple months ago. It's in a 35 foot motorhome (F53 chassis). The motorhome is within it's GCWR. Climbing a 6% grade at 3,500 rpm, little more than half throttle, like all the other climbs. 80 degrees out. Engine temp was on the letter "R" on the word "NORMAL". All of a sudden my engine redlines as if it popped into neutral. I let off, put it into neutral, and try "D" again. Nothing.
At this point it's uphill so it's naturally slowing down and I try "2". Nothing. Even slower and I try "1". Nothing. Pulling over blocking the right lane on a blind curve on a grade is scary. Had pylon cones out, waving traffic to warn them down a ways, etc.
No fluid on the ground, no slipping prior to this. I have reverse. I see no obvious linkage or electrical/wire issues underneath (from road debris, etc). It's at a shop but I want to know all I can so if they come back with something outrageous I can make a decision. I never pulled the stick, as I was coordinating traffic, highway patrol, a tow truck, etc.
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I have a 96 Ford f super duty with a 7.5l and E40d after about 30minutes of driving O/D light will flash but still operate in all gears. Pulled codes and got 628 excessive converter clutch slippage and 657 fluid over heated. Now I have not felt a shudder which would indicate slippage like my 91 ford E40d does on lockup. And the temp never got above 210 until the light started flashing or I came to a stop. and front seal leaks also which in a tsb a read of another forum claimed that leaks can cause that code. I have already replaced solenoid pack after it got fried when the problem started last Monday...
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My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
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My tranny started acting up so I took it to a reputable transmission shop for repair.
Symptoms : Shifts very hard 1st to 2nd. Light flashes on overdrive button.
The following is what has been done at the transmission shop.
Computer failed to read codes. Sent out to rebuild. After rebuild, codes read FIPL needs replace. Done and gives good readout. Trans control replaced, speed sensor replaced, checked all associated wiring and plugs as well as ground. Dropped pan, changed fluid and filter. No parts in pan. Tech says pan and fluid looked good. Replaced coil pack.
After all that, this is what is happening..Clear all codes. FIPL reading good. No flashing light on shifter. It feels like it is shifting from 1st to 3rd, then back to 2nd. Still shifting hard and indicator light starts blinking again. He is going to read computer again. At this point, he suspects a mechanical problem in transmission but is reluctant to remove and tear down.
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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Having downshifting problems with REbuilt transmission. Is there a FIPL sensor for the 4r100? I was told to check all engine codes first, but i just have a EBPV sensor code, but removed the valve when I installed the GT38R turbo...
Rebuild:
- Tugger kit
- triple disc Billet torque converter
- New clutches and seals,.
- Banks Trans command module
... I also have a 6-pos tuner.. I had a Super chips tuner too and it has ALWAYS had the downshifting on acceleration on up-hill grades!!
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Got stuck in the sand pits today. While trying to get out by going forward and back. I always get the front end starts bouncing hard. I always let off. Is this wheel hop or axle wrap?
Whatever it's called. How do I minimize this. It's a shame to have all that power and not be able to lay it down.
2002 excursion 4x4 7.3 l all stock.
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When I am going about 55 my transmission sometimes starts downshifting and then up shifting again for no reason.
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My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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I have a 77 F250 4X4, 400, C6. Upshifts and downshifts are working normally, except under light load and minimal throttle the tranny downshifts to 2nd at any speed under 40 mph. I've never had an automatic do this before. I checked the kickdown linkage is pulled up so it's doesn't seem to be in kickdown position always, no vacuum leaks to the modulator. I confess to be more of a manual trans guy so my knowledge is autos is limited.
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Why is my 1992 ford explorer self accelerating between 15- and 25 mph?
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The truck started acting up while driving. It would shut off (no miss or anything), but would start again. Now it is sitting in the driveway and wont run more than 3 seconds. The fuel pump has been changed and did not work. The fuel pump relay is new and did not work. I read that the fuel pump goes to another circuit after start up. Could it be running to start and then shutting off? Inertia switch is not tripped. Where to look next. 1992 Ranger 6 cylinder ....
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I tow a car hauler that is about 8000 lbs. On my last trip occasionally when the truck would downshift into 5th under a load, it would bang in there pretty hard. Not a smooth transition, not every time just some times. Just wondering it that was normal or the start of a potential issue.
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I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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