Ford Transmission :: 1992 E350 - Trans Slipped And Lost Drive
Aug 3, 2015
Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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Started having an issue with my '92 E-350 box truck. I noticed a slight hesitation while driving which I thought was a miss from perhaps a plug wire jumping or something. It didn't do it all the time, just occasionally for a few seconds then would clear up. I looked for a bad wire at night but couldn't find anything so I said hell with it and changed plugs and wires, cap and all.
That didn't fix the problem. Progressively the problem has gotten worse. Then I started hearing a pinging, almost tapping noise as the truck was stumbling. Now I've noticed that the motor seems to be running fine as it does it which has led me to think it may be in the trans.
A little background on the trans. About 6 months ago the van started randomly conking itself out coming to a stop after a few minutes of driving. It seemed the trans was bogging the motor down as if it were locked together. If I put the truck in neutral coming to a stop it wouldn't do it. I went ahead and had my uncles shop flush the trans and he put some sort of synthetic fluid in it.
Since then the van has never done the cutting off thing again. All seemed well. Then this started. It does it from take off through all the gears even in OD. It almost feels as if someone is rapidly hitting the brakes. I thought maybe malfunctioning brakes however soon as I'm not pressing the accelerator it doesn't do it.
Today I had about 4000 lbs of wood in truck and it was a horrible trip. The truck would barely get up to speed. I unloaded the wood and on the way home it only seemed to do it going up hills so it seems any load on the truck makes it happen.
Does it seem I'm in the right area thinking transmission?? Being it happens in every gear would a torque converter seem to be a possibility. When I was having the cutting off problem I was told it sounded like the converter wasn't unlocking but the flush seemed to fix that issue.
I haven't pulled the pan to see if there's any surprises in it and I did the diagnostic check and there wasn't any problems found. Any other manual diagnostic checks?????
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I have a 94 E350 with a 7.3 diesel. I took it to the Ford dealership to have a new fuel filter and oil change when I got it back the OD light was flashing and transmission shifting hard. They tell me they cannot find a problem could they have possibly knock a wire off of something to make this happen...
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I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
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Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driving for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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What is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
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This transmission shifted smooth and strong through all gears until today when it stopped all of a sudden to engage either Drive or Reverse. No previous signs of slippage, hesitation, stalling or lack of power whatsoever.
We checked the linkage to the transmission and it works as intended, nothing loose or broken, everything is in place. If there was something slightly different with it from other similar vans we have then it had a slightly delayed engagement in Drive (it took a second to engage it after you moved the lever) - on all other vans we have the transmission go into Drive almost instantly.
Van is a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport/Chevrolet Lumina APV with the 3.1L V6 Chevy TBI engine with the 3T40 automatic transaxle. Where we should start tackling this issue?
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I was out driving in my 2003 F150. The transmission Slipped on a shift. I noticed the OD light is blinking. Transmission went into OD and drove fine. Pulled codes P0713 and P0712 transmission fluid temperature sensor. Made it home. An hour later tried to back out and now sounds like a grinding or rubbing sound. But it sounds like the sound is coming from the rear end. I am lost.
2003 F150 4.6L SuperCab....
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95 Ford Escort 1.9L, 330,000 miles. Never changed the clutch and i bought it with 80k on it. With that said the clutch never slipped and a lot of this is highway mileage so i never saw a reason to change the clutch just because.
Last week i pulled into the driveway i depressed the clutch pedal as i normally do and as i slowed, the car bucked like it was still in gear and didn't recognize the clutch was depressed. When it started bucking i tried to pull the gear shifter to neutral but it wouldn't move, the car finally died in it's parking spot. I quickly popped the hood and had my son press the clutch in and out and all components seemed to be moving fine, i was mainly looking at the slave cylinder assuming since it's a hydraulic clutch if it was a hydraulic issue that wouldn't move if i didn't have hydraulic pressure.
No obvious leaks were noted, i looked at the master cylinder and it seemed a little low but not empty maybe just above min. I filled it to max and still no change. So i assumed it was the clutch finally disintegrated and locked up. Yesterday i got in the car to attempt to move it to the garage to work on it. It started up fine, shifted through all gears with no issue's, drove it around for about 15minutes shifting a lot and pressing the clutch randomly and it worked fine.
I brought it back home and tried to kill it a few more times before i got it to the garage, it finally locked again but it was in neutral and i couldn't get into any gear. Turned the car off and then restarted and it shifted into gear, i pulled it into the garage and stopped with no other issue's.
Checked closer for leaks, between master and slave and couldn't find any. Pulled speedo cable and checked trans fluid, its brownish red (more brownish) and thin but didn't really smell burnt and it is at the correct level. Linkage has some slop in it but i don't see it binding anywhere, i layed under the car and was able to move linkage in/out of gear with my hand. It's easy enough to say the clutch is well over due for changing but since there were no signs of a failing clutch when i drove it i think i need to look elsewhere.
Could it be worn fluid? Could it be debris in the line? Or could it be that the fork just isn't engaging or disengaging properly due to wear?
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While driving the other day the automatic transmission in my 2003 Santa Fe slipped into neutral. I pushed the car home wherre it currently sits. I checked for error codes and found none. There is a grinding noise when I shift from any gear into park.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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The other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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We recently purchased a 1991 Minnie Winnie (Winnebago) which rests on a 1990 Ford E350 chassis. It only has 58k miles. While driving on the freeway or highway, the Overdrive starts to go in and out; downshifting and upshifting willy nilly. It has a manual button for turning off the Overdrive and when I do this, it stops jerking and drives smooth. But, of course, this effects the gas mileage significantly. I took the Minnie to a garage recommended by the company I purchased the Minnie from. They replaced the manual Overdrive switch and replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Ford transmission.
We got it back and it was okay for one trip but by the second trip, it was doing the same thing again. I took it back to the garage and since it was under warranty, they put in a new rebuilt transmission, another new Overdrive switch, a new fuel sensor and checked the wiring but it still had the same problem. So they sent the onboard computer board to Ford who rebuilt it. The guys at the garage thought for sure this would resolve the problem. It didn't. They have exhausted their ideas as to what is causing this problem. We love the Minnie Winnie and other than this problem it is in beautiful condition.
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How the auto gear shift works on a ford E350.Does it work by wires or does it have a steel column to change the gears.I have looked for pictures but with no luck. I have spent 2 hours looking.
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Noticed an ATF leak on my van on crossmember/tailpiece mount awhile ago. Not the driveshaft seal but near mount. Checked tightness of bolts on case and mount and found the one mount bolt that goes into transmission case loose- about one whole turn.
(other bolt is on an "ear" of tranny case) Checked again after a couple of weeks and leak is worse, same bolt is loose again.
Is there a gasket or O-ring on this particular bolt? 1998 Ford E-350 with 6.8L - trans code E on door sticker. I believe it is an E4OD as the tranny pan says "Metric" (?) 324,000 miles on this and runs/shifts fine. Occasional vibe issue at highway speeds... I've added 1 quart of ATF over this time period.
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