Ford Transmission :: 1992 E350 - Pinging Almost Tapping Noise As The Truck Was Stumbling
Apr 13, 2016
Started having an issue with my '92 E-350 box truck. I noticed a slight hesitation while driving which I thought was a miss from perhaps a plug wire jumping or something. It didn't do it all the time, just occasionally for a few seconds then would clear up. I looked for a bad wire at night but couldn't find anything so I said hell with it and changed plugs and wires, cap and all.
That didn't fix the problem. Progressively the problem has gotten worse. Then I started hearing a pinging, almost tapping noise as the truck was stumbling. Now I've noticed that the motor seems to be running fine as it does it which has led me to think it may be in the trans.
A little background on the trans. About 6 months ago the van started randomly conking itself out coming to a stop after a few minutes of driving. It seemed the trans was bogging the motor down as if it were locked together. If I put the truck in neutral coming to a stop it wouldn't do it. I went ahead and had my uncles shop flush the trans and he put some sort of synthetic fluid in it.
Since then the van has never done the cutting off thing again. All seemed well. Then this started. It does it from take off through all the gears even in OD. It almost feels as if someone is rapidly hitting the brakes. I thought maybe malfunctioning brakes however soon as I'm not pressing the accelerator it doesn't do it.
Today I had about 4000 lbs of wood in truck and it was a horrible trip. The truck would barely get up to speed. I unloaded the wood and on the way home it only seemed to do it going up hills so it seems any load on the truck makes it happen.
Does it seem I'm in the right area thinking transmission?? Being it happens in every gear would a torque converter seem to be a possibility. When I was having the cutting off problem I was told it sounded like the converter wasn't unlocking but the flush seemed to fix that issue.
I haven't pulled the pan to see if there's any surprises in it and I did the diagnostic check and there wasn't any problems found. Any other manual diagnostic checks?????
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My 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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I just picked up a 1999 F150 5.4 with around 19k miles on it. Truck is in mint condition, stored in a heated garage since new. Before we made the deal I checked everything out pretty well including checking all the fluids, test drive, other usual stuff and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. However, today I went for a short ride with the windows down I noticed a random pinging noise from under the truck. At first I thought it was a few small rocks bouncing off something metal under the truck, however it continued to do it randomly for the next 5 minutes. I would say I hear a ping every 15-20 seconds randomly. Doesn't matter if it's idling or under load, happens about the same either way. Aside from this, truck starts and rungs great and no error or warning lights have kicked on.
When I got home I started the truck back up and climbed under to see what it was. I found that the noise is coming from the exhaust system, mostly heard at the catalytic convertor. It resembles the metal expanding kind of ping, but I think its actually originating at the engine and the noise is just carrying through the exhaust system. I then went back to the engine bay and could hear the same random ping, just much quieter. I don't know the condition of the fuel, but based on the low miles I haven't ruled out a bad tank of gas. Only other issue with the truck is there is a bit of rust and corrosion on the inside of the exhaust tips and up into the exhaust pipe. They are still shiny and silver on the outside, just a little rust buildup on the interior of the exhaust. Hoping it's just the last 1' or so that is rusted
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Ok, so I have a 1992 GMC Suburban with a 350 TBI with a full dual exhaust and long pipe headers. The problem I'm having is that there is a tapping noise that comes from the driver's side of the engine when you push the gas pedal down. It only makes the noise when you push the pedal down more than about a quarter of an inch. I have tested it down hill with the transmission out of overdrive and the rpms up and there is no tapping. I'm thinking it might be pre-ignition in one of the cylinders but how to test for it other than just disconnecting plug wires one at a time until it stops. Much more I don't know what would be causing it to happen if that is the problem.
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Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
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What is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
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My truck is leaking transmission fluid. I know you are going to tell me that i need new seals but, i have taken this truck to many mechanics and they assure me that its not the problem. It is leaking out the vent. There are two holes in the transfer case that we aren't sure if they are plugs but we plugged em anyway just to see what would happen and its still leaking so...not a fix. Apparently this is a rare transfer case and even rarer information to be found bcuz this model was only made for two years and because they were pretty reliable finding people that actually worked on them is even harder. Should I just buy a new transfer case or is there a way to fix this?
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.3 won't start it turns over but no start days before it was stumbling and it would dye out when I got to a stop
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I have a 92 Honda CX hatchback, 5pd with 140k on it. Since I bought the car used about a year ago it's had a low speed stumbling/bucking issue. For the most part, it's only when driving slow and steady but occasionally at highway speeds it'll do it as well. It's as though the whole engine just cuts out for a second. Giving it more gas always brings it back but it's incredibly annoying, especially in a parking lot with a cup of coffee or something in your hand.
For starters, the rotor, wires and cap are all very recent. I pulled the ECU codes and it indicated #7, Throttle Angle Sensor. Bought a new one, calibrated it, reset ECU and drove on. No change. Car still bucks and the CEL comes on occasionally. At first, I suspected the plug to the TPS since it was loose. I pulled new wire and soldered directly to the ECU and TPS. No change. Of interesting note, when the CEL would come on, it seems the TPS falls offline and the car runs great! I disconnected it for a tankful and noticed my 40mpg/hwy go down to 25mpg. Completely unacceptable for a car so painfully slow.
Another observation, the stumbling doesn't start until the car warms up. Also, if it's particularly humid/raining, sometimes it won't do it at all. A lot of people have suggested the O2 sensor, distributor, fuel pump/filter. I don't have money to just start throwing at this thing and of many similar issues I've read of others with the same car, nobody seems to have a solid fix.
I've replaced the TPS, completely cleaned the throttle body and IACV, checked for vacuum leaks and even opened up the ECU looking for cold solder joints. It looks newer than new inside. Like I said, with the TPS disconnected, car runs great but the mileage goes south.
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I have a manual 1992 ford ranger V6 with a 3.0L and for a while now i have been hearing a VERY light tapping sound while accelerating. its so quiet that most people can barely hear it when I turn off the radio and A/C. For about a year or so I could only hear the tapping when I was going up an incline in fourth or fifth gear, but recently I can hear it on flat roads but only occasionally, Again I can only hear it in forth and fifth gear and only when i first get in the gear,when i speed up it goes. I don't Know if this is good but I change the oil and spark plug regularly.
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I'm assuming I might have a coil going but I'm not sure. Yesterday morning and this morning I started my truck and it was fine, I backed out the driveway again truck was fine. I put it into D and pull forward it was fine till I hit about 1300rpm, then it felt trike the truck was stumbling, I went a little faster to 1500/1600rpm and it stopped, as soon as I slowed up and then hit the go pedal it started again at around 1300rpm and stayed till 1600rpm and then it went away. So this is twice now two days in a row this has happened the exact way and only in the morning and goes away with no problems. I hooked up my SCT X3 and there are no codes and when it stumbles I have no lights come up. What I should do?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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We recently purchased a 1991 Minnie Winnie (Winnebago) which rests on a 1990 Ford E350 chassis. It only has 58k miles. While driving on the freeway or highway, the Overdrive starts to go in and out; downshifting and upshifting willy nilly. It has a manual button for turning off the Overdrive and when I do this, it stops jerking and drives smooth. But, of course, this effects the gas mileage significantly. I took the Minnie to a garage recommended by the company I purchased the Minnie from. They replaced the manual Overdrive switch and replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Ford transmission.
We got it back and it was okay for one trip but by the second trip, it was doing the same thing again. I took it back to the garage and since it was under warranty, they put in a new rebuilt transmission, another new Overdrive switch, a new fuel sensor and checked the wiring but it still had the same problem. So they sent the onboard computer board to Ford who rebuilt it. The guys at the garage thought for sure this would resolve the problem. It didn't. They have exhausted their ideas as to what is causing this problem. We love the Minnie Winnie and other than this problem it is in beautiful condition.
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How the auto gear shift works on a ford E350.Does it work by wires or does it have a steel column to change the gears.I have looked for pictures but with no luck. I have spent 2 hours looking.
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Noticed an ATF leak on my van on crossmember/tailpiece mount awhile ago. Not the driveshaft seal but near mount. Checked tightness of bolts on case and mount and found the one mount bolt that goes into transmission case loose- about one whole turn.
(other bolt is on an "ear" of tranny case) Checked again after a couple of weeks and leak is worse, same bolt is loose again.
Is there a gasket or O-ring on this particular bolt? 1998 Ford E-350 with 6.8L - trans code E on door sticker. I believe it is an E4OD as the tranny pan says "Metric" (?) 324,000 miles on this and runs/shifts fine. Occasional vibe issue at highway speeds... I've added 1 quart of ATF over this time period.
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I just came across a deal on a 93 E350 motorhome for dirt cheap. It has a whine at 50 mph and believe its the rear end. The whine is under throttle not coast.
There is a tag on the axle housing that reads :
4:10 a diamond shape 2US AC
760553
Is this a Dana 60? Looks like a Dana.
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I have a 1987 e350 conversion. Recently the vehicle has been acting up. Once warmed up, the transmission does not drop back into low/1st gear when stopped at a light, when we go to accelerate the vehicle has no power as it tries to accelerate in drive. I have to manually shift into first which the transmission immediately kicks down. When it comes to transmissions I like to have some knowledge before bringing to a shop.
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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