Ford Transmission :: 1992 - Clutch Diaphragm Fingers Bent Inward?
Aug 30, 2013
I have a 92 F150, 2 wd, 4.9L 6 cyl, 4 speed with OD, hydraulic clutch. Awhile back I noticed the clutch starting to slip. Eventually it was slipping so much that I took it in for repair. When I went to pick it up, the mechanic showed me that the clutch disc was in fair shape, but the throw-out fingers on the pressure plate diaphragm were bent inward. As I recall it was more of a rounded bend as apposed to a sharp bend. What could cause that to happen?
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I have a 99 f250 sd truck that came as a auto and I am changing it to manual. I bought a slave cylinder unit setup and got it put in and as I was installing rod from pedal to slave I must of broke plastic fingers that hold rod. So is them fingers replaceable or must I buy another unit? with no foot on pedal it sticks up close to bottom of dash now. I tried pushing clutch all the way to floor and still rises too high. What can I do????
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I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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I had a fuel leak at the pump cover (I straightened the cover) and am ready to install the new diaphragm. The old one came out with the rivet head side upward and the pump lever riding on the protruding pin side. Which is correct? This is on an 85 F250 with a Motorcraft carb.
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They are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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1992 Ford Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L engine and 5 speed manual transmission. 135,000 miles, no AC and no power steering. I am having poor clutch disengagement and resulting hard shifting. The shop added a little fluid to the reservoir last oil change and it is still looking full. I always park on concrete and never see any leaking. I don't know what may have been done before as I haven't had the pickup all that long. Where should I start? Is there probably internal bypass leaking in the hydraulic clutch as there seems to be no external leaking?
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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I own a manual 1992 Honda Civic VX. Recently, the clutch has started to stick about halfway up when I take my foot off after shifting sometimes. I pull it up with my foot when it does this, but clearly it shouldn't be happening. What could be causing this?
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I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
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I am going to look at a 92 Explorer soon and the owner says the transmission is shifting early.... I'm not exactly sure what they mean by it and I haven't gone and test drove it myself yet, I'm just trying to get opinions on what to look for and hoping it doesn't mean the end soon to come for this tranny. I was thinking maybe the vac. modulator could be the issue but I don't really know much about these Explorer's, as I've only owned one for about 2 months. It's a 92 4WD.
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Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
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I have a 92' Areostar XL 3.0 2WD. When I first start it and put it in drive it takes a few minutes before it kicks in. After a few minutes of driving it doesn't have a really bad problem (only a few times has it slipped in lower gears.) I was told it could be a clogged transmission filter, old transmission fluid that is glummed up, or pull belts need to be tightened. I have the van up on jacks now and was getting ready to change the filter and fluid but I decided to get some advise first before I screw things up or do any unnecessary work.
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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I have a 92 F250 with a 5.8 liter, manual trany with manual 4x4. We turned rear drums and new pads, pulled front hubs and replace inner and outer bearing, races, (everything) used proper lubrication ( prev lube was nasty) new shocks, greased all points, new rotors and pads, cleaned hubs. Put all back together, finally got it back from my brother, first snow fall and BAM no four high. Thought I had low, because it crawls slow, but later tried turning wheels to get it to lope and it does not.
When I try and go to 4h while driving, I hear a slight grind, go back to 2h and it is gone. It is a very slight grind noise. I also have a pretty good vibration in 2h when i hit 35 MPH to abot 50 MPH that was not there before, not sure if connected. Checked linkage, it seems to be fine. Jacked up front end, put trany and tc in neutral, get front axle to spin on one side, bound that side up and it transfers to the other side. I am hoping something in the hubs, that was the only thing we really messed with on the 4x4 system. The 4x4 was working last winter.
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?
I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100% .. Is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?
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I've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
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Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
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Ok long story short I was given a conversion van that is built on a e150 van and has a 5.8 liter with an e40d tranny.. This van sat for at least 3 years till recently..
I have cleaned all electric connections on the tranny and the one on the rear differential . New filter and fluid but did not drain the converter after driving it for about an hour we finally got it to start shifting gears automatically the problem is it wants to shift only under heavy acceleration and then only to second at about 35 mph and drive at about 60 mph and over drive around 80 mph and all this only under heavy acceleration you let of the gas a little and it starts down shifting..
What I may look for next that may be pretty easy to try. My thoughts at this point are maybe the torque converter is going south but I am hoping for a more simple solution..
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I have a quick torque converter question. I have a '92 F-250, 351W, E4OD. When I come to a stop the engine dies. I know it is the torque converter clutch staying engaged. I do have a TCC code stored. I'm wondering if there is a way to disconnect the TCC so it never goes into lock-up, since it only seems to happen after I've reached higher speeds and it goes into lock-up. I thought maybe a wire from the PCM to disconnect? I have All-data access, but it doesn't have wiring diagrams for the trans. Which wire, color and pin number, and if this will work? I know it's not the proper repair, but I have $17 into this truck, it's pretty rotted, and I'm just looking to get by until spring. I don't drive much, but occasionally I need to get somewhere.
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