Ford Transmission :: 1992 4x4 F250 Not Working After Front End Repair
Nov 5, 2014
I have a 92 F250 with a 5.8 liter, manual trany with manual 4x4. We turned rear drums and new pads, pulled front hubs and replace inner and outer bearing, races, (everything) used proper lubrication ( prev lube was nasty) new shocks, greased all points, new rotors and pads, cleaned hubs. Put all back together, finally got it back from my brother, first snow fall and BAM no four high. Thought I had low, because it crawls slow, but later tried turning wheels to get it to lope and it does not.
When I try and go to 4h while driving, I hear a slight grind, go back to 2h and it is gone. It is a very slight grind noise. I also have a pretty good vibration in 2h when i hit 35 MPH to abot 50 MPH that was not there before, not sure if connected. Checked linkage, it seems to be fine. Jacked up front end, put trany and tc in neutral, get front axle to spin on one side, bound that side up and it transfers to the other side. I am hoping something in the hubs, that was the only thing we really messed with on the 4x4 system. The 4x4 was working last winter.
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2003 F250 super cab, 335,000 miles. the seats are all in good condition except the drivers seat bottom, no rips or tears but the outer bolster area is worn. Looked at new replacement and no go. Is there a decent cover or a aftermarket replacement that looks good? The truck is not worth high end stuff, just would like it too look better
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We installed a TransGo HD-2 "reprogramming kit" into my friends 96 F-250 460 4x4 E4OD in preparation for future engine modifications. The problem is it didn't work correctly.
All forward gears work (some shifts are harder then stock, but many of the shifts are just as soft as stock, which in itself may be another issue). We drilled the separator plate for the V8, we may try the diesel size next though...1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th + tq lockup all work however.
Anyways, the major problem is that it no longer has reverse. If you shift from reverse to neutral, the RPM seems to go up a little bit as if it were in gear a bit, but give it some gas and it acts like it is in neutral. Obviously something went very wrong.
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I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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I'm a new Ford owner, when I engage 4wd I get a fairly annoying whinning / wheering sound that sound like the front end. Only makes sound under acceleration not coasting. No vibration at all.
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Ok heres the story 1994 ford f250 7.5 4x4 dual tanks I used both front and rear tanks regualrly than one day front tank stoped working fuel pump doesnt turn on when key is in the on postion now you can hear the rear turn on when switched to rear tank took off pigtail connector to front tank no power at all to tank took off swith in dash no power there either good relay and fuse funny thing is with swith turned to front fuel guage reads correctly switch to rear reads correctly Im stumped because oveiously Im getting power to the switch but checked wires at switch and cant get any power or at front tank but power to rear.
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1999 F250 super duty. I am having a problem with the front right turn signal not working. The indicator on the dash also does not work but I can hear the relay clicking double time and the rear signal works. I have changed the bulb and fuses and went under the dash and the column to be sure a connection had not come loose. I have looked through the forums to try and find an answer with no luck. What to try next?
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2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
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They are about my F250. It is a 92 with 186000 miles. I love this truck.
After a long trip, maybe 1.5 hours, the truck will shudder while I let out the clutch in first gear. This only occurs in first, and it doesn't happen after the truck sits for a bit, just after driving.
I have an opportunity for a good deal on a F150. It is a 2001 with 181,000 miles for $4000. Is it worth updating for the new technology even if there is the same old high mileage issue?
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92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
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I have a 92 f250 4x4 351 windsor, so I had a hose bust the other day that ran from one side of the intake to the other, I mean completely split down the side. The engine overheated when this happened so i replaced the hose and everything seemed fine until i was heading home and it started to overheat. Being frustrated and angry i noticed that the heater was blowing out cold air when it was overheating and that the top radiator hose would run flat when i popped the hood, but no coolant would run thru it until it overheated and sucked it back up or something. But I then changed the water pump thinking it was that but it wasn't, so then i suspected a stuck closed thermostat. I changed that and coolant still isn't running thru top radiator hose and now I am leaking coolant from what could be the thermostat gasket or somewhere else im scared and want to fix this problem.
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I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
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My 1991 240 always had 2 working back up lights. After one of two garage visits recently (with them not working on my lighting), one of the two stopped working.
The last visit (a different garage) I just made with this time the mechanics working on a tail light issue as well as other stuff now has me with the 2nd back up light not working. Since one mechanic lost me the use of one and another mechanic lost me the use of the other.
How I can troubleshoot this and get one or both "back" on my own?
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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I have a 1992 Ford Escort. It's a junker (literally - it has a recovered title, the car having been totaled at some time in the past), but it gets me around. Or, it did.
The battery went dead a while back, and I'd been using the wife's car. She had to be out of town, so I got a new battery. Car started right up, but I couldn't get the transmission out of Park. I think there are switches to make sure that the brake is on, etc., that have to be made before the car can be put into gear. Is there anything I can do? Where are these switches? Obviously, I can't drive the car to a shop, and I'd prefer not to have it towed unless there's no alternative.
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I am going to look at a 92 Explorer soon and the owner says the transmission is shifting early.... I'm not exactly sure what they mean by it and I haven't gone and test drove it myself yet, I'm just trying to get opinions on what to look for and hoping it doesn't mean the end soon to come for this tranny. I was thinking maybe the vac. modulator could be the issue but I don't really know much about these Explorer's, as I've only owned one for about 2 months. It's a 92 4WD.
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
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