Ford Transmission :: 1991 F150 - Clutch Won't Disengage After Replacement
Apr 13, 2015
I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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i have a 1991 5 speed F-150 that i only use to plow my private rd... and have been using it like that for about 8 years. we have had quite a snowy season in NH, and it has been running good, until yesterday. while pushing snow, it idled really high... like the clutch went (had a new clutch put in 4 years, 400 miles ago.) i checked the clutch fluid. nasty brown, but no leak. it sat over night and i tried again today. same thing... except I realized it only seems to be doing it in 4 high and 2wd. in 4wd low, it seems to work fine. hoped to find some solution on the site, but there was nothing. we're getting another 4-6 tonight....
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2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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I've got a 91 prizm where on a recent roadtrip the transmission went out on the freeway. While driving 75mph, i heard a quick ping sound, then a quick wheel skip followed by the sound of my transmission turning itself into gravel. We had just enough time to get off to the side, but i knew it was done.
I live in San Francisco and don't feel like getting a new car only to get it covered in dings from all the bad drivers around here. So naturally i replaced the transmission in my 22 year old car. yikes. It needs to be stated at this point that the car has run flawlessly it's entire lifetime and I'm the original owner - had no reason to expect otherwise after replacing the transmission.
The shop that changed it was a large shop, AAA recommended and Owner-operated. They told me the transmission was from a car from Japan where transmission replacement is standard. (I did not know this).
Now however, the car has a misfire. No perceivable misfire for the first two minutes she's running, but then constantly misfiring every couple seconds. At stop lights, you can feel the car almost want to stop, but then step on the gas and runs ok, but can still feel the misfire until she gets up to speed. The car runs just a smudge rougher so we believe it's still misfires while at speed, just not noticeable.
Timing belt only has 10,000 miles.
Timing is dead on.
Wires are good, just changed the distributor, coil and plugs. As i understand it, the throttle position sensor is integral to the distributor, so that's new as well.
Fuel pressure is right on.
No warning lights on dash.
At this point, I can't keep throwing money at her. The transmission was 5-6 months of a car payment for a new car. Would there be a reason that the car would have a misfire after getting the transmission replaced?
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2001 F150 Supercrew 5.4L ... Dealership unable to locate replacement pressure hose for power steering . I've returned 3 wrong parts. The hose in pic goes all the way up to the reservoir.
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This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
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I've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
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The cooling fan clutch never seems to disengage so I was wondering where can i find a clutch that is light duty so it will disengage easy and work with gas mileage napa list two different ones, maybe off a different vehicle....
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Ok so I have a 97 Ford Explorer 5-speed manual transmission. When I start the truck up in first gear, with my clutch pedal fully depressed, the truck goes forward as if im not pressing the clutch pedal down at all. And if I start the truck up in neutral, with the clutch pedal fully depressed, I cannot get into any gear. There are no leaks anywhere and there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. What the problem may be or where i might wanna start looking?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
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This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
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The A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
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I have verified that my AC clutch does disengage (and re-engage), but it seems like the AC is on all the time. Normally you don't notice this in the Northwest because I always overpower it with the heater, but now that it's above 70 on occasion, in vent and full cold, it still blows 20 degrees colder or more than outside air temp.
Is it possible that the clutch disengages but that the bearings are bad and its somehow still turning the compressor? Would a mechanic be able to diagnose this or would I just have to throw money at buying a new compressor? My first indication should have been that I get about 15-16mpg when I used to get 18+ occasionally.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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