Ford Transmission :: 1990 F250 - Sluggish When Starting Off In Drive
Oct 18, 2015
Automatic transmissions! I have a 90 F250 4x 7.5 and E4OD. I have been chasing electrical gremlins, and I'm not sure if these problems are related or not. Symptoms: When starting off in drive, it feels very sluggish, as if it is starting in second gear. Manually putting in first works. When left in drive it will drop all the way into fourth at 20-25 mph. If left in drive, when you turn a corner and step into the throttle the trans will rapidly shift up and down causing a surging effect. Manually moving the shift down into second stops this. I have been considering swapping the PCM from an 89 7.5 E4OD parts truck I have, to see if that cures any of the problems.
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I am not the original owner of this 1990 E250 cargo van with a 302 in it. I am trying to troubleshoot this shudder I am having. It only happens when I am just starting off from a stop. Every other place the tranny runs and shifts great. I trying to find a starting point and after reading a bunch in a bunch of different places, I am confused as to the tranny I have or even had.
It has in big bold letters METRIC on the bottom of the pan. It also has Automatic Overdrive and Ford on the bottom of the pan also. It is a 14 bolt pan with the two rear corners of the pan chamfered off. I see now it is DEFINITELY the AOD installed and NOT the AODE. The thing is my steering column is labeled 1 D and OD. That is a 3 spd overdrive to me. What the heck is going on? How can I tell what the tranny was that came out of the van?
When I look under the van at the shift linkage, you can definitely tell the linkage is colored red which to me looks like somebody has been down there playing around. Is it possible to put a AOD into this van with the steering column the way it is? Could this be a reason for my early shudder at starting off from a stop? Once I put my foot in it or get moving at a quicker pace, the shudder goes away. Something is not right with the way this tranny is set up. I am not even sure where to start.
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My 1990 F-250 with the 460 overheats when driving in overdrive. Driving a hundred miles will turn the trans fluid brown and the transmission is very hot even though it drives just fine. If I drive it out of overdrive I have no problems at all.
It all works fine except the overheating in overdrive, no flashing on the overdrive light. The tans shop is not getting a code, they tell me they have to rebuild the tranny.
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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I have a new to me 2000 F250 7.3 diesel with automatic. Truck has 185K miles and tranny is starting to slip occasionally. Do these trucks come with a OEM tranny cooler or do I need to add or upgrade the OEM one. Someone also told that there is something called "bulletproofing" the tranny on these trucks. BTW, what would be a reasonable cost to have a two wheel drive auto tranny done on my truck?
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I have a 1997 F250 that I am fixing up. The issue is this... The dash lights now flicker off when I place the transmission in Drive position. I can slightly move the slack in the gear selector and the lights come back on. When the transmission is in Park, the dash lights work correctly. Not sure why there is some type of switch to control the dash lights buried within the steering column?
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1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
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We have a 1990 Ford Ranger - 2WD 4cyl - sometimes when we try to start it, it will not kick over the final time for several tries. When it finally catches the voltage gauge will flicker and jump around. When the gauge flickers, the truck will shut off...then the same issue with trying to start it again. Some days it runs just fine and others it will stall out 3-5 times in a 15-20 minute drive. We have been told it's the DIS Module OR the Crankshaft Position Sensor OR the Voltage Regulator OR .....
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I'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
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My GA has been sluggishly starting for the last 3 days, usually the first start of the morning then fine the rest of the day. Today is the first day that it has done it during the day. I stopped at Advance Auto on way home and they ran a test on it. I'm attaching the results of it to get your feedback on the possibilities. The battery was replaced in March 2010, the alternator in November 2010.
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2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
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Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
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i want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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I've got a friend with a 1990 Toyota 4Runner Manual transmission with ~170k miles on the clock. He's been having an issue for quite some time that he hasn't been able to be resolved. Basically he's got an issue with the vehicle erratically NOT starting when it is hot outside. The vehicle starts fine when it is cold outside, but when it is hot he erratically (only happens sometimes) get a "click" noise from the engine compartment with no engine turn over or anything. He is then at the mercy of the vehicle and sometimes just has to try multiple times or wait it out for awhile and try again. Sometimes just opening the hood, looking around a minute, closing it, and re-trying is able to get it to start, but other times not. Other times, and I quote from him, "sometimes i just get really upset and stomp on the clutch, get out of the truck and just shake/rock it, sometimes that'll do it." It happens if the engine is cold or hot, it only matters that it is hot outside, above ~90 degrees. Below is a list of stuff that has been done to try and resolve the issue, but hasn't really worked.
Steps taken:
Replace Battery
Replaced the Alternator 2 years ago
Replaced the Battery Connectors (some were corroded)
Possible Starter Replacement within the past 5 years (double checking paperwork)Rewired jumper wire from battery to starter
Seems sensor or solenoid related to me, but I'm unfamiliar with this vehicle/quirks.....
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We are going through probably the overall coldest winter I have ever been through. I was wondering is it not out of the question for the cold to impact the power steering on a car. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and have noticed when starting out in the morning my steering is a bit more sluggish/stiffer and then has the day wears on it is back to it's normal self. It has depending on the temps out said taken a few minutes up to a half hour or so. I have never had this issue before, but again have never had to deal with so many sub zero nights and days in winter....
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My 1990 f250 a/c has freon, and the compressor runs when i turn on the a/c but i get no cold air.
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1990 F150 2wd, E40AOD tranny. Will not shift past 2nd. Reverse works. Does not have compression braking. Started when pulling a empty trailer up a hill on the interstate.
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