1990 F150 2wd, E40AOD tranny. Will not shift past 2nd. Reverse works. Does not have compression braking. Started when pulling a empty trailer up a hill on the interstate.
View 1 RepliesMy 85 300 cid with a C6 trans won't shift out of first. Seems like this happened several years ago and it was a vacuum diaphragm or something like that. Is this user fixable or do I need a transmission shop to look at it?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 with auto lock 4x4 and a automatic transmission. The problem I am having is after setting for about a week I drove it and 1st to second shift normally but when the RMP's/MPH hits time ti shift to third I get RMP increase and no third. I have shifted it manually 1 then 2 and into drive same result RMP's increase just like it is in neutral.
Miles on trans is about 120K have been serviced about 10K ago with no poor color or smell. Mechanic said transmission and filter looked good no metal or junk in oil. I drive down the road and it shifts from first into second then about 35-40 it hits what should be third but nothing free RPM's. I let it slow down to below 35-30 second kicks back in and away we go again until it's ready to shift into third.
I have been told possible speed sensor problem, possible other sensor problems looking for leads on where to look and what items to check. Just had Shop Mechanic drive it and he was baffled for everything looks good that he checked such as oil, and how it drove until it tries to shift into third. No over drive light flashing or anything and no engine codes showing at all everything clean in memory.
My 82 f150 4x4 302 c6 trans is acting up. My c6 is slow to shift into any gear when I shift the column shifter, after a moment it jerks into gear, also it doesn't seem D is doing anything but all the other gears seems to function manually or auto.
Fluid level looks ok, maybe a little high on the dipstick. I'm going to check the modulator and do a fluid/filter change but looking for a link to the band adjustment screw ?
So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
I have a '90 F150 without A/C. For some reason the healing system is stuck on defrost. No matter where I turn the selector switch ( floor, vent, etc) air only comes out the defrost. If I turn it to "off" it will turn off. What is wrong?
View 2 RepliesWent to start "Larry", my 1990 Ford F150, the engine cranked but did not start. I switched to the other fuel tank and it started right up. The tank I normally use is the rear one and the pump had been getting noisier while it was running so I knew it would be soon to fail and it made no sounds when I checked it later to see if it would click and whir. I pulled the tank and installed a new pump. To test it I turned the key and heard the pump whir and stop. I turned the key to start and it started and died a couple ti mes. Front tank switched on and the truck started. While running I switched to rear tank and it died. So I have the pump in and it sounds like it runs up to pressure but the fuel is not moving.
Thought maybe I had fuel lines crossed but my manual seems to indicate they are two different sizes so that left me scratching my head... I have years of experience doing all my own wrenching but this is my first in-tank pump replacement. I have assisted a friend on a couple but never really wanted to pull a fuel tank and in my case this job required I remove the tow hitch set up as well. The hand pump for $9 at Harbor Freight was worth every cent as it made moving fuel to front tank a snap. So what the heck is happening? I don't see how a pump could be installed wrong, it is getting power on initial key turn...I should add the only time it did start I presume was because of fuel in the line that the front tank had supplied on previous start ups...
I have a 1990 F150 4x4 and I'm having a bit of an issue with the rubber brake line. every time my friend take it out he says the brake line is rubbing against the tire. is this possible and if so how can I fix it?
View 4 RepliesI picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
View 1 RepliesMy center brake light went out a month ago. Thought it was the bulb so replaced that, still didn't work. Checked the fuse and its not broken so my guess was electrical?
Hasn't come on once that I know of but I was randomly walking behind my truck and the light was on. Truck was off lights were off and key wasn't in the ignition.
Went and turned my truck on and turned the lights on and the cbl stayed on. When I switched my lights off it went out and stayed out.
Now I'm definitely thinking wiring but not sure where to start fixing?
Oh and it's a 1990 F150 XLT
I have a '90 F150 and both the yellow ABS light and the red BRAKE light are on.
It was fine until my buddy did a little brake work for me, including replacing a couple brake lines and a parking brake cable. He bled the system at the lines going into the front calipers because the bleeder valves on the calipers where corroded and frozen. I then replaced the calipers and bled the system properly. Three times. I don't think the problem is from the brake work.
The brakes still work, by the way. The pedal just feels a bit spongy and I think the brakes don't work as well as they could.
If the truck is not running, I can pump the brakes a few times, and it will make a sound like it's sucking air a few times. Then the sound stops and the pedal firms up.
If the truck IS running, it keeps making the sucking air sound no matter how many times I pump it, and the pedal feel stays the same. I think it might be a bad brake booster.
My truck is a 1990 Ford F150. It seems like when I let it sit for a few min that the gas just drains back into the tank and there for it wont start up that fast, it takes a while to get it going but when I shut it off and start it back up its like a new truck. It starts right up!!! Any tips on what might be wrong, maybe the gas cap is letting pressure out? Im 17 and my dad knows alot about trucks but he cant tell whats wrong.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1990 f-150 that periodically (and rapidly) blows the fuse for the turn signals. The brake/tail lights continue to work, but just the turn signals quits. Looking for a schematic of those systems?
View 1 RepliesI recently changed out the power boost canister for the brakes on a 1990 f-150 2wd. It was successful but now i have no cruise control. I double checked my plugs, all good. I checked my brake lights, all good. brake pedal seems fine and completely raised when not in use. i looked for a fuse and can't find it for that system, seems odd. it's not in fuse jct under dash, can't find a fuse jct under hood, seems odd also. No check engine light has lit.
View 3 RepliesMy 1990 F150 blows the F1 fuse after driven a short distance. When the fuse blows the ABS light in the dash comes on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
View 6 RepliesI have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
View 1 RepliesThis is on my 7.3PSD. I've observed that the 1-2 gear shift drops about 1,000 RPMs and takes a good half second or longer to do so when given a lot of accelerator pedal input. And then the 2-3 shift is a very quick and harsh shift.
If I am accelerating gently the 2-3 shift is as unnoticeable as the 1-2 shift is quick. Is the slow 1-2 shift causing the trans to protect itself and affecting the 2-3 shift? And if so, what do I do to resolve all of this? I changed the trans fluid a week ago and there is no change.
I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
View 10 RepliesMy beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.
I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?
I have a 90' Ford Ranger, rear wheel drive.
I can not find a 2 wheel drive automatic transmission and I was wondering if I can convert a 4 wheel drive transmission?