Ford Transmission :: 1989 F150 - Trans Whining And Started Popping Out Of Reverse
Sep 21, 2015
I have a 89 f-150 xlt with what i believe is the m5od (4 speed with O.D) transmission and the 5.0 motor, the trans has been whining since I've owned the truck and it started popping out of reverse on me a couple months ago, now i have to slam it into gear to make it go anywhere even when I am going down the road! The clutch is fine but the trans is hanging up, anyways i have a granny gear transmission a buddy of mine gave me out of an 85 f150 that had the inline 6 if i take the bell housing off of my transmission can i put the internal slave cylinder on that transmission? Will it work or will i have to find a way to put an external slave cylinder on it?
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I have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
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I have a 1989 tioga 460ford and the trans appears to be slipping when i get around 50mph. The engine revs up but it won't go more than 50. The engine again revs up but there does not feel like the power of the engine is being transferred to the trans. the coach runs fine up until i try to go beyond 50. I have 34000 miles on the rig. Some one suggested that I check the catalytic converter. what else should i look for?
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I am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
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I have an 04 Jetta 1.8T that I recently acquired and have a problem with a noisy manual tranny. Reverse is a bit noisy (more than usual) and when I get on it in 1st and 2nd gear it sounds like an awful whining noise. I have been told it could be either a bad throw out bearing or input bearing? BTW this thing shift perfect, like butter, no grinding at all.
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My 95 f150 stalls in reverse. It goes fine forward and idles fine in reverse but if I give it quite a bit of gas it starts stalling. We've put a new mlps and that didn't fix it. Then they thought it was the convertor so I got the trans rebuilt and still no change. I'm about to pull my hair out over this deal. I don't even have enough power to back up a trailer or back up a hill.
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When truck warms up I lose reverse. I changed fluid and tranny filter and I am still having the problem...
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have this in the 04-08 f150 section but I think it is transmission related now.
My F150 has started whining while driving down the road or sitting still. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. I have also noticed that the transmission has started taking longer / slipping going into 2nd gear. I also smelled the transmission fluid and it has an "odd" odor to it. It smells almost burnt but the fluid color looks good. Could the transmission going out cause this noise? BTW, I have an edge tuner and have the transmission settings maxed out at 25 on the shift firmness. Could this cause an issue? Here is a vid of the noise.
05 f150
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My car started popping out of reverse a little while ago and its started happening more often. I asked my mechanic uncle about it and he said its probably the synchronous. From my understanding, that means a rebuild of the tranny. I just got this car in Nov after writing off my Corolla in Oct. Is there anything else minor I could check?
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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2001 7.3L I purchased used with 200K on it. Trans hesitates going from 1st to reverse and reverse to 1st. It seems more pronounced going from 1st to reverse. Fluid is clean.
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My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
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Had this thing rebuilt less than 8k by a reputable local trans builder and the reverse started to fail on me told the guy the problem and said everything is "normal". Drove it and the thing started to act up slamed out of OD and the light started to blink. Took it to the guy to get it checked and said most likely the tranny is toast the fluid does smell burnt.
Then he told me that I had two codes and that they were the cause of the tranny to fail, the codes were P1105, P1106 and that the voltage going to the solenoids was low roughly at 8.6 volts... Can the alternators have anything to do with tranny messing up? I took the to be tested and both alt are good I have a constant supply of 14.4 volts from the alternators. Can this be the pcm taking a dump?
Forgot to mention that this is a 2001 f250 platinum Edition 7.3 power stroke.
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Why my transmission is acting up. its recently started humming/whining when accelerating. it sort of sounds like the power steering when you turn your wheel to far on an older car. it recently started happening (3-4months ago) and I am not to happy since its pretty much a year old. Is it covered under the limited lifetime warranty? it has 28000 miles on it, v6, automatic, and its the xle version.
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I got a 2006 3.3l v6 sonata and for the past 6 month I have no had reverse which sucks let me tell you but I've looked into my codes it's throwing out. Anyway when I throw it in reverse it doesn't lock on it just spins making a kind of whining sound,
And when I'm driving it I take my foot off the gas or I slowly push the break it will jump down to third gear and get stuck I'll be doing 40mph at 4K RPMs, what this could be or what I should do?
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Just recently, my '93 transport 3800 has started making weird sounds when engaging transmission , forward...and specially reverse. This is not a transmission problem. It sounds like there is increased torsional movement of the engine/transmission unit and it made me take a look at the engine while would shift in drive and reverse....it does lean much..impressive ..but in fact I do not remember having tried looking for that before...so I cannot compare.
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This transmission shifted smooth and strong through all gears until today when it stopped all of a sudden to engage either Drive or Reverse. No previous signs of slippage, hesitation, stalling or lack of power whatsoever.
We checked the linkage to the transmission and it works as intended, nothing loose or broken, everything is in place. If there was something slightly different with it from other similar vans we have then it had a slightly delayed engagement in Drive (it took a second to engage it after you moved the lever) - on all other vans we have the transmission go into Drive almost instantly.
Van is a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport/Chevrolet Lumina APV with the 3.1L V6 Chevy TBI engine with the 3T40 automatic transaxle. Where we should start tackling this issue?
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I'm a new owner of an '89 F150. It's a four speed manual trans, 4.9L 6cyl. This is my first truck and I bought a beater in hopes of learning while I fix it up. I have minimal experience (biggest repairs have been replacing disk brakes on a previous car and replacing the EGR valve on this truck), but I want to learn more.
The truck has a bypass switch and the forward fuel tank was removed. Both of these modifications occurred before I owed it. Also, the clutch is a bit grumpy. Sometimes I'm unable to get it into first (I usually "granny start" from second), and every once in a while it doesn't want to go into reverse.
When I bought the truck, it would just choke and cut off after driving for 30 minutes or so. It would restart after cooling down. My mechanic said it was a problem with the fuel pump and replaced it, and that fixed that problem.
After that, the truck began to have trouble starting. I would flip the bypass switch and the engine would rev up, then drop RPM's quickly until choking off within a couple seconds. When I flipped the switch again, it would start up fine. It would run fine after that.
A mechanic recommended having the fuel injectors cleaned. The fixed the problem for about a week, then it started again. A friend of a friend who has a home garage suggested a vacuum leak, and we found a leak in the EGR value, which we replaced.
Replacing the EGR valve fixed the problem again, for a couple days, but it came back. Meanwhile, immediately after the EGR valve was replaced, a new problem started. Periodically while I'm driving (I haven't been able to detect any pattern), the engine will just shudder or choke a bit. It feels like it's threatening to choke, but it never actually does. Once it starts, it typically does this every couple seconds until I shift gears.
I'd really like diagnosing what might be causing the choking when it starts and the new shudder when driving. I realize it could be a number of things.
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I got an old 1989 F-150, manual, in-line 6 engine, with an 8-foot bed. I use it for hauling landscaping equipment, as i am starting a business. i will likely start hauling trailers with it this summer, but I also just want the engine to give me more power.
What are some things I could do to up the HP, or a better truck in general. I'm not looking to make it into a 350Hp monster, just get a little more out of it. What can I replace or add that would do this?
First, the idle dies on me when i put it in neutral, or gets stuck at 2500rpms. is this a vacuum leak, or the idle-air control valve?
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my park brake will work when pushed to the floor but when i pull the release lever it will not disengaged.
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1997 Ford F150. 6 cyl, 4.2L, 138K miles. (Still) keep getting back the P401 code. I've checked (and re-checked) and cleaned all the ports and checked connections on the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid. Everything seems to be working OK. Have replaced the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EVR solenoid and (still) after clearing the code and driving ~30 miles, I keep getting the CEL light pop back on and P401 code popping up. Is their anything else to check ??
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