Ford Transmission :: 1987 F250 - Rattling Noise When In Neutral And Stops When Put The Clutch In
Dec 17, 2012
I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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I recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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I have a 1970 f250 with a factory 390 (vin verified) and a C6, I believe the transmission was rebuilt but have no way to verify. It works fine while cold and mildly warm. Once heat soaked it is very slow to shift (going from neutral to reverse can take almost 30 sec) and leaks profusely from the front. I can not tell exactly where the leak is. Could this be a case of just having too much fluid or is there a more serious concern? The dipstick does read high but level ground in my area is hard to come by so the accuracy can be questioned. If it does have to much fluid, do I just drain the pan, re-install and let it run till hot and replace fluid as needed or should I drain and replace with 3 qrts prior to starting?
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My stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
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I have a 2001 Celica GT with about 140k miles on it and a manual tranny.
Over the last couple months, the clutch or transmission has been making a weird rattling sound when in gear. It's mostly while not accelerating, and it's not a consistent rattle - kinda like something is loose in there. It's not super loud, just barely and annoyingly noticeable. When the clutch is in and you just rev the engine there is no noise. Driving down the road if you put the clutch in and coast there is no noise.
I recently checked the transmission oil. Oil level was fine, but it was smelly as heck, so I replaced it. No bits or metal or anything in the oil.
The clutch in the car has never been replaced and is on its way out - I'm just wondering if its worth it to repair the car. I took it to a local Toyota shop and they thought the transmission needed replacement. This was the same shop that diagnosed my spun rod bearing as a valve issue, so I'm kinda skeptical
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I've got a 2006 F250 6.0 5R110W 4wd 220,000 miles It started getting a slight delay going into reverse and tow light flashing last week. all else functioning perfect Got a pending code P0700 and P0741 I stopped at NAPA when I was leaving no reverse checked every thing all was normal no leaks and fluid good color drove perfect in drive I got back to the shop [10 miles] put truck in park it was like its still in drive same with neutral, in reverse it wants to creep forward.
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I have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
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Getting a loud rattling noise from the front of car in Park or Neutral? As soon as I put the car in D/M. I have heard that the transmission is noisy in neutral, but just want to double check.
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Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
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Mk4 12v vr6 afp. 170k ish. No real mods except a cleaned up bay. Was death knocking LONG before I started the bay. Probably 6k miles. My car knocks/rattles bad in low rpm but promptly stops all noise at 4k and up. Makes the noise in any gear but only when throttle is applied. Even does it when revved up in neutral. No CEL other than one explained later.
Suspecting wrist pins as con rod bearings are brand new (replaced for no reason they were fine) and i removed head and no problems were found. Lifters tick a bit but that's all. Cleaned and put back with new headgasket. Shined up the pistons of course. Timing chains also done. <10k miles on oil pump. I even tried taking the shifter rod completely out and driving to verify if that was the rattle and no change. What could be left mechanically?
I was afraid the noise was preignition because I was getting codes for knock sensor out of range, so I replaced the knock sensors multiple times each, coil pack, wires, new ngk bkr5e plugs gapped correctly, fuel filter and pump. Have ran multiple tanks of premium 94 from different stations as well.
The ecu pulls timing back to 0 btdc and it is still knocking so I just decided that the knock sensors are picking up a mechanical knock rather than pinging. Only thing left is wrist pins or piston slap. Maybe injectors causing a lean condition?
Here's a pic of my car for attention ....
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My manual 2004 Ford Ranger XLT (4.0L) has been Buzzing/Rattling. (VIDEO LINK BELOW) She has 112k miles on her. Owned 1 month, no issues when I bought from my paps. Its my 1st manual so may have been a little hard on clutch 1st few days. Noise started abruptly 1 week ago when I engaged clutch to shift to 3rd. Its gotten worse over the few days and happens even when in gear. Its much more prominent from outside passenger window. Don't notice for 1st couple mins of driving & is intermittent but often. Noticeably louder when foot is taken off gas in motion. Does not make noise when idling. Generally only above 1500 RPM . Not coming from the back half so I don't think its the exhaust/heatshield
Heres the sound......
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So I was visiting my brother yesterday and he was standing beside the car when I started it (in first gear, clutch disengaged). When I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out he asked if I had heard the noise it made. Makes it when the clutch is engaged (ie, pedal up) but not when engaged, so I can safely say it's not the throw-out, which would be noisy when clutch disengaged. Kind of a rattling noise, nothing really loud but is noticeable. Could this be something to do with the dreaded dual mass flywheel? Wouldn't imagine it has anything to do with the clutch disc as it would be held tight when the clutch is engaged.
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I have the po411 code, not sure which problem it is but when I first start the car it sounds awful like almost a grinding or rattling noise then stops after a few seconds.
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I was driving down the street and i noticed i couldnt get it in first gear, almost like a wall blocking it. and then i put it into 2nd gear and i started rolling... i turned my car off and when i started it back up, it had a slight grinding noise (in neutral). i put it in first gear, took out the clutch and i wasnt going anywhere... same with 2nd gear...
so i towed my car to the shop, they said my clutch went out and i "lost first and REVERSE gear".... is that possible?!
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Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
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I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
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