Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
View 10 Replies1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
View 8 RepliesMy problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
View 6 RepliesMy R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
View 6 RepliesI currently own an mk6 gti with a manual trans... as of late I've been noticing a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is not engaged.. once engaged the rattling stops completely .. it seems to be getting louder and louder .. I am worried this could eventually turn into something worse than just a rattling noise .. i had a friend mention it could be the "throwout bearing" ..
View 9 RepliesI am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
View 5 RepliesI swapped in a manual trans in my 79 f250 4x4 about a year ago. i had the trans gone through before i put it in. I installed a new luk clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, new throw out bearing, etc.
Ever since i installed it there was always a clunking noise in the trans. I drove it and didn't think much about it until recently where im just fed up with it. the trans always shifted nice and tight with no grinding.
In the past few weeks i picked up a parts truck for the trans thinking that's what my problem was. I drove the truck before i pulled it and it mad no noises whatsoever. I had it gone through and reasealed it before i installed it. I pulled my old trans and it still looked good with no slop on the input shaft(which i thought that was the problem). I installed the new one and once again same noise.
I decided to pull the trans again this time pulling the bellhousing and checking the clutch. It looked like new to me still and i saw nothing abnormal. Put it back together and still the same. I swapped the transfer case too, checked both driveshafts all is good. I am thinking its coming from the bellhousing(maybe the clutch is bad)
So here is a video and you can hear what I am talking about it happens mostly when I engage the clutch and i am coasting. it is much louder now with no carpet and the trans hump cover off.
Np 435 transmission clunk - YouTube
So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
I used my truck in 4x to pull a couple of little stumps. Nothing major, just put it in 4l more or less to keep from tearing up the yard. Noticed a couple of weird things today. For a minute had a good pull to the right. Just felt "weIrd" in front end. For lack of a better explanation. Jacked up and checked for play, nothing unusual. Took off the tire and checked other stuff and couldn't find anything. Lubed up joints etc and drove later. I'm hearing a slight " clanking" noise in front. I know it's got something to do with the 4wd but I don't know where to start.
View 3 RepliesI've been running type F since I bought the truck about 30k miles ago. The dipstick says to run M2C138cj which I recently found out is NOT type F! I hope I haven't destroyed the clutches. How I can get all of the old fluid out. Also I can't find any transmission fluid with the ford M2c138cj spec is Dex-Merc III backwards compatible?
View 2 Replies79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
My clutch peddle made a slight "snap" sound last night and now it is very difficult to get the car to engage in a gear while sitting still, while moving it does ok, but not nearly as smooth as it should be. The other odd occurrence is that while the motor is running and the car is not moving, you can't shift any gears at all, but as soon as you cut the motor, all 5 gears and reverse are easily accessible. Why the sound at the peddle and the trouble in the gear shift mechanism? I am only an advanced beginner with car repair, but I think think this is really bad...
View 1 RepliesThis is on an 01 Mustang with the baby 3.8l and a T5OD tranny. I installed a new clutch and now when the car is on, it won't shift into any gear. But I can start the car in gear and let go of the clutch and it moves forward just fine. I took everything back apart and checked the clutch plate and it is in there correctly. The clutch fork is completely on the little pivot ball.
The throw out bearing is the same size and everything as the old one. I pulled up on the clutch pedal to self adjust. Still not going into gear when the car is on.
I have heard that I might have air in my clutch line. But this clutch is cable actuated, not hydraulic. I have no master cylinder. Like I said before, I already pulled up on the clutch to self adjust and still no luck.
2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission.
I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced.
I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.
99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
View 4 RepliesMy brake pedal started to vibrate after I installed my intake. I put the stock intake back on but it still does it.
View 7 RepliesReplaced a bad clutch on a 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer. I have been unable to bleed the slave cylinder after replacing both it and the master cylinder. I suspect either the slave cylinder is bad, or I put the incorrect throwout bearing in when the clutch was replaced. The slave cylinder is located inside of the bell housing
View 5 Replies