Ford Transmission :: 1979 F250 - Clunking Noise In The Trans
Oct 10, 2012
I swapped in a manual trans in my 79 f250 4x4 about a year ago. i had the trans gone through before i put it in. I installed a new luk clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, new throw out bearing, etc.
Ever since i installed it there was always a clunking noise in the trans. I drove it and didn't think much about it until recently where im just fed up with it. the trans always shifted nice and tight with no grinding.
In the past few weeks i picked up a parts truck for the trans thinking that's what my problem was. I drove the truck before i pulled it and it mad no noises whatsoever. I had it gone through and reasealed it before i installed it. I pulled my old trans and it still looked good with no slop on the input shaft(which i thought that was the problem). I installed the new one and once again same noise.
I decided to pull the trans again this time pulling the bellhousing and checking the clutch. It looked like new to me still and i saw nothing abnormal. Put it back together and still the same. I swapped the transfer case too, checked both driveshafts all is good. I am thinking its coming from the bellhousing(maybe the clutch is bad)
So here is a video and you can hear what I am talking about it happens mostly when I engage the clutch and i am coasting. it is much louder now with no carpet and the trans hump cover off.
Np 435 transmission clunk - YouTube
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I am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
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I've been running type F since I bought the truck about 30k miles ago. The dipstick says to run M2C138cj which I recently found out is NOT type F! I hope I haven't destroyed the clutches. How I can get all of the old fluid out. Also I can't find any transmission fluid with the ford M2c138cj spec is Dex-Merc III backwards compatible?
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This is a photo of my '79 F250 4x4 rear axle (Dana 60 full floater) this seal will leak in a few miles ..what I need is the part number of a replacement seal made like the one in the lower photo ..it seems that Ford no longer has this seal.
Notice the increased distance from the bearing to the sealing lip in this photo ..the sealing lip on the new seal in the upper photo lies almost on the bearing, this one just barely engages the seal surface on the axle stub. I can machine the bearing pocket deeper to cause the seal to move farther onto the sealing surface, but that would also cause the bearings to be closer together, and may cause problems there.
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I just bought a new 2014 f250.
He says since he has purchased the truck the TPS sensor would occasionally go off saying there is issues with the tires. Tires are fine yet the light chimes on after being reset shortly. Been at the dealer for a week and they haven't really touched it I was wondering if there is any know issues.
Also my dad had the truck in 4x4 and when he puts the truck in park it made it a loud clunking noise. Ford is said there heavy duty line was full so they didn't look at that ethier. He needs the truck for the weekend so he is picking it up tomorrow, he will return it when he can but does this sound familiar as well?
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I used my truck in 4x to pull a couple of little stumps. Nothing major, just put it in 4l more or less to keep from tearing up the yard. Noticed a couple of weird things today. For a minute had a good pull to the right. Just felt "weIrd" in front end. For lack of a better explanation. Jacked up and checked for play, nothing unusual. Took off the tire and checked other stuff and couldn't find anything. Lubed up joints etc and drove later. I'm hearing a slight " clanking" noise in front. I know it's got something to do with the 4wd but I don't know where to start.
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So my truck is making a kind of a clunk noise in the trans area does it between 30-50mph does it more often when cruise control is on but still does it from time to time when it's off. What it could be?
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I was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
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I have an 05 F 250 super duty with the Triton in it. When I shift either into overdrive or reverse the transmission hesitates (does not go into either gear for about 5 to 10 seconds). After that it engages and it's fine. It does not appear to be slipping or acting up regardless of temperature or speed. Sometimes it will sort of engage and than bang into gear solid. I do not have any check engine lights. Not sure if the PCM has any codes. So I'm trying to figure out if I need to have a complete rebuild or if I have a valve / solenoid body problem Where do I start?
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I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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1988 F-150 4X4, 302, 5 speed manual Mazda transmission. I picked this truck up from a teenager and have been going through it fixing the odds and ends, just when I thought I was done a new one popped up.
There is an odd "clunk" in the driveline, but I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It happens almost exclusively in third gear, shifting up or down into this gear. It has happened in first gear one time that I can remember. When it happens, I hear the pop (clunk), then feel a slight jerk like when a chain slips on a bicycle.
I spent some time under the truck yesterday trying to locate it, but had no luck. Did find the yoke on the rear end , 8.8, a little loose. Found that the U-joints at each end of the driveshaft were worn out. The transfer case, BW 1356, was quite low on fluid. And there was nothing out of the ordinary with the transmission.
Tightened the yoke, replaced the U-joints, drained the T-case and refilled with fresh ATF and pulled the fill plug on the tranny to ensure it had ATF instead of gear oil in it. It did.
I hoped all of that had solved my mystery noise, but I wasn't that lucky so now I need to isolate it. Seems that if there was a problem in the T-case or rear diff, the noise would be present trough all gears wouldn't it? With it being primarily in one gear, could the problem be in the transmission? If so, can it be rebuilt for a reasonable price?
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Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
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My problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
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So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
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I need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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I have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
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My daughter recently got a '92 f-150 SCAB 4x4, 302 w/ E4OD. The trans needed new seals in the front pump, so I did those and replaced the filter and fluid while at it. Now it runs fine, but it makes a nasty ticking or clicking noise. It is definitely coming from the front of the trans. I was thinking it was a cracked flexplate, so I pulled the inspection cover yesterday, but could not see any cracks. I have heard that sometimes you cannot see the cracks, as they are tiny, or around the crank bolts, which are not visible from the inspection cover. Is this the case? Also, could the torque converter be the culprit? I haven't heard of this kind of noise coming from the TC, but then, I've dealt mainly with manuals.
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My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
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When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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