Ford Transmission :: 1978 F250 - Tranny Quit Working Suddenly?
Aug 2, 2014
I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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I got Ford C6 Transmission bolted up to a 460 in a 1978 Ford F250 4x4. I recently had put all new gaskets in it and I change the fluid. The day I put it all back in my reverse was trying to lunge forward, my natural was a 1st gear, and drive was working fine. Now recently my park throws itself into gear. I got no burnt fluid, the clutches were fine when I put it back in???? What could it be, I'm running out of options before I do a manual transmission swap.
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my heat has suddenly quit woking getting hot. It has plenty of water, my heater hoses are not gettting hot.
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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1997 Ford Expedition 4x4
When I push the switch for the drivers window I can hear the relay in the fuse block make a click but window doesn't move. If I push the switch for any other window (on the drivers door or any other door) no click at the relay and no window movement. I've swapped the relay with other relays in the fuse block but nothing changed.
I've tested the driver side window motor by running 12 volts directly and the motor works fine. When I press the PDL switch I hear a buzzing sound coming from the passenger floor area behind the glove box but the locks do not go up or down. I started the truck and when I put it in gear I can hear the PW relay in the fuse block clicking repeatedly. Put the truck in Park & the clicking stops.
I was told (on another forum) that the problem is most likely my GEM module. Bought a used 1 on eBay and installed it today but nothing changed.
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My Wife has informed me that her AC has suddenly quit working. There are no dash lights illuminated about this. I've been running 12 hour shifts this week but hope to check it out this weekend.
Are there any specific areas that I should look? And are there any AC problems that are common on a V8 Phaeton?
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2010 full load Tiguan- perfect this a.m., but wife went to drive home & no blower fan. The dial lights up and moves as dial turned, but no fan at all.
Checked the fuses under dash, nothing burnt out. What am I missing??
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My wife's '98 Aurora, she said she heard a loud click and suddenly lost the heated seats, tach, speedometer, fuel & temp gauges, DIC, and climate control. I check the 60A fuse under the rear seat, it was OK. Replaced it with another 60A, no difference. Everything else electrical is still functioning.
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I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
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I bought my Saturn Vue Hybrid and was driving for a week when I heard a sound while driving and suddenly the air conditioning quit working and started blowing hot air. I took it to Pep Boys and they told me to take it to a dealership. After three hours and 143 bucks I was told the A/C clutch appears to have come off of the compressor. I have noticed others have had this same issue in Hybrids. Is this a recall or what do I do since this repair is not a cheap one? Also, what other models have the same ac compressor/ clutch for purchasing?
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I have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
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I have a 78 4x4 I has SAT for a few years transmission has not shifted right since I've owned it. When taking off in d it just runs out first until I let off the gas then goes straight to third. Also will not go to second manually...
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I bought a friends 95 f350 7.3 powerstroke with an E4OD. The truck quit driving.the OD light is not blinking. I confirmed the OD light does light up.The trans fluid is full , red and does not smell burnt. I have tried to manually shift 1st and second nothing happens. No reverse. Where should I look for the problem? Solenoid pack, loose valve body, bad relay?
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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Funny thing - had the truck in the body shop for several weeks and when it went in, everything worked. Got it back, and some of the radio buttons don't work. These are rocker style buttons, and when I push the AM (left side) that works. Press FM, and it won't go to FM. Press the right side of the tuning button, and it won't go up the dial. Press the left side, and it will go down. Same for cd. Left side of button goes backward through the tracks, but right side won't advance. Bass/treble button: Press bass (left side) and that works. Press treble (right side), and nothing.
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2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
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I have a 2002 F250, 5.4 extended cab 4x4. Factory lights. I have no turn signals. They were working just fine and without turning off the truck, all 4 corners quit working at the same time, as far as I know. The indicator lights on the instrument cluster don't work. I have checked/replaced all fuses. Replaced the switch lever and the blinker relay behind the dash. The hazards do work and always have. It might be coincidence but I believe the back-up lights quit working at the same time.
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I have a 78 F350 2wd With a 460. I want to install a 99 E4OD trans. I have the Trans it is rebuilt with all the upgraded parts. I was going to order the converter this week. I am not shure on the best programer to order and shifter to order.
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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i have a 78' F-250 4x4 4 speed with a straight 6. it has headers and an eldebrock 600 on an offenhouser dual plane intake. The carb just randomly started acting up the other day and what to try now. it will sputter and just about die when i first let off the clutch then it will suddenly start racin. its really annoying and hard to drive. i checked the inline fuel filter and it should be getting plenty of gas. didn't find any vacuum leaks.
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2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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