Ford Transmission :: 1974 F100 - Selector Shaft Is Leaking
Oct 20, 2012
I have a 1974 ford f100
302
fmx transmission 14 bolt pan
tag off of transmission (not sure if this tells you anything)
The problem: the selector shaft is leaking
What I need: a replacement seal - part number or where to buy
Also, when I remove the valve body to replace the seal will there be any hidden BB's, springs or any other things come flying out that i need to keep an eye on. Valve body torque specs would be fantastic.
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I have a 74 f100 4x4 with manual steering I would like to convert it over to power steering but every power gear box I have found the holes are in a different spot than the manual box is there anything out there that will match up or will I have to weld a plate on and drill new holes...
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1974 F100 starts to chug after 15 minutes driving although infrequently when driving at a slower pace. Would happen around the 70mph speed and stop chugs when slowed to 65mph.
Only have experienced this after it's been warmed up, in the past 3 sessions of driving it will do this on freeway when driving 70mph, slow down to 65mph and no issue. Although, it seemed to have chugged once this morning when driving 45mph up a hill when during time engine was partially warm.
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On my 04 150 auto, the clip that holds the shift cable to the trans selector shaft broke, Ford says i need to buy the whole cable and what did you do?
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I put a used AOD in my 1981 F 100. The throttle valve seems to be binding up even with the linkage disconnected. There is no pressure on the TV port. The truck will move in all gear positions, but it will not shift.
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Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
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I am looking at a used 2003 X with a 140k miles. The truck is very clean and seems mechanically sound. This will be my third X! The only problem I found is the trans selector is difficult to move. Once driving the trans seems fine. No leaks anywhere. I believe this is cable actuated? Is this something minor or should I run away?
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I looked under my truck and noticed a Antifreeze Leak I looked under the truck and noticed the antifreeze leaking around the crank shaft. I have never seen a leak from that area. I haven't pulled anything just want a good direction before I start pulling parts off.
I looked up top didn't see any hoses leaking. looked all around the block. the only place I can see it coming from is behind the crank shaft pulley somewhere.
2001 F150 XLT 4X4 ....
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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A little less than a year ago I decided to change the timing belt & water pump on my then 61k miles '05 V8. I bought the BlauParts timing belt kit and rented the tools from them also. The install went without a hitch, the old water pump gasket came off nice and clean and I installed the new water pump gasket without any RTV as per the instructions.
A couple of weeks ago the Phaeton hit 65k miles so I did an oil change and while I had the belly pan off I noticed a small whitish pink spot on the belly pan, right below the crankshaft pulley. Looking closer I found coolant traces that came from the water pump area. I cleaned it all up and decided to drive it for a few weeks to see if it's an actual ongoing leak or if that was maybe just an old leak that might have happened just after the install. Unfortunately it's an actual leak ..
First I thought maybe it's leaking out at the gasket but closer investigation shows that the leak is actually right below the pulley at the bottom of what looks like a freeze plug at the front of the water pump. Is this a common area for a leak with this type of water pump? It's only been installed for 11 months and 4,500 miles. Btw, the pump in the kit is a Saleri model GD42107.
I'm really bummed about this because it's a lot of work to swap a water pump out and I'd hate going thru all that work again (and having to rent the tools again). Question is, can I swap the water pump out without putting the front bumper into the service position? From what I recall the only clearance issue might be finding a puller that is short enough to pop off the camshaft sprockets with the radiator that close.
Here are a few photos from when I found the leak:
This was after a 200 mile trip, fresh coolant:
This is were the leak is coming from:
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I recently changed my sway bar bushings when I jacked the car I notice oil is leaking because the shaft is all wet. My question is it an easy Job or will it cost and is it something that's hurtful to the car if I don't fix asap...
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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I was hearing some sounds from my engine and opened up the timing covers to determine where the sound was coming from. It sounds exactly like the Sienna with the same 3MZ engine in this video: YouTube ....
While I didn't find the source of the noise, I did find that my water-pump is leaking. My question is, is this water-pump leaking bad enough to be replaced? I do not notice any coolant loss and never had the need to top up.
It appears from this last photo that the pump is leaking through its pulley shaft and not at the interface with the engine:
The timing belt and water-pump were changed 3 years ago with the Gates timing belt kit from RockAuto. The pump at the time didn't look that great quality in its casting compared to an Aisin pump.
I could not feel any play or hear any abnormal sounds from the pump while it was running with the timing covers off.
This is on my 2005 Lexus ES330 with the 3MZ-FE 3.3L V6 engine, same motor as the Gen 5 Camry SE V6.
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I purchased a 1964 9 inch from a Galaxie 500 to use in my 51 merc M1. The drums were seized onto the axle shaft and after trying everything, I was forced to break them up with a sledge to get them off. The axles turn freely and I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the shafts to the housing flanges. The axles should slide right out but the do not. Am I missing something? How do I pull them if they don't budge?
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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Last year I had carbon deposits cleaned on all 4 cylinders and fuel injectors replaced at a local shop. The same shop that did this work is now telling me that my crankshaft cradle needs to be resealed because it is leaking oil. There wasn't an oil leak issue prior to the carbon cleaning and replacement of injectors and they were the last people under my hood. I am wondering if this leak could have been caused by faulty reassembly or other damage after cleaning the cylinders and replacing the fuel injectors? I have a 2009 Volkswagen Jetta 2.0 with about 75,000 miles.
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