Ford Transmission :: 1971 F250 - NP435 4th Gear Grinding After Tranny Replacement?
Aug 30, 2006
I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
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I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
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I am going over this new truck I brought home not long ago. and I haven't picked a service manual up yet but I figure since I've owned manual tranny's before it's pretty obvious on the basics.
The fill and drain plugs are on the same side correct? I found them on the passenger side, figured the top one was the fill plug.. So I remove the plug and I get bathed in gear oil to the armpit and topcoated the driveway; Geesh the smell hasn't changed one bit.. I'm guessing the PO topped the fluid to the top of this transmission. Because I expected to stick my finger in the hole and either feel fluid or not. Not get a bath Unless I removed the wrong square plug.. I don't think I did.
What seals can I expect to be blown because of this if any? I haven't put many miles on it since I bought; it maybe a 100 total. I have no idea though how long it was driven though before I picked it up.
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I have a '78 F250 4x4 with the 400 engine and C6 automatic tranny in it. All of the sudden, it won't shift as I'm driving. It will go into reverse, drive, 2, 3, when I'm shifting, stays in the same gear all the time while I'm driving.
I was looking around and I found a hose that I think goes from the top of the tranny to...nothing. A friend said it's a vacuum hose that should go from the shift modulator to the carb. Well, I can't figure out where it should connect to the carburetor. There is a hose towards the front of the carb that was cut off and is plugged with a bolt, but that's been like that since I bought the truck 3 years ago. So if that's where the hose SHOULD go, then something else must have caused the tranny to give up on me.
Tranny has been acting fine until now. And I'm sure that hose should go SOMEWHERE!
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I got a 71 f-250 ranger n it's a beast with a few problems. The most resent is emissions. I have owned it for a year and guy bought it from knows about timing n carbs, but now days most mechanics hate dealing with carbs from what I've found. I'm in az and my emissions came out as a fail, but from what I've read it may be fixable with the right knowledge if any ones willing to share. Here we're my result
Loaded reading. Load standard. Idle read. Idle standard.
Hc. 131. 450. 609. 450
Co. 5.56. 3.75. .11. 5 .0
So it failed idle hc and loaded carbon. So I'm pretty sure my trucks running rich and I know I can adjust its air and fuel, just not tremendously experienced.
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4l60. Tranny 08 xpress. I'm getting p0700 code. 2 weeks after first getting code the tranny went out. Replaced tranny but still getting the same code. Should I b worried and how can I fix it.
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I have an intermittent problem with my 09 F250 Diesel. A few times now under hard acceleration I have had the trans seemingly get stuck in 3rd gear. The little service required wrench symbol showed up on info screen but after shutting off the engine no codes were present. A week or 2 later this happened again and I ran diagnostics through my Spartan tuner and got P0771 and P2704 for codes.
Again they cleared when I shut the engine off. Since this is an intermittent problem, only after hard acceleration, would it make sense to change tranny fluid, maybe do a tranny flush? Or am I off to the dealership for a rebuild?
2009 F250 Lariat Crew Cab Short Box
Spartan DashDaq
S&B Cold Air Intake
4" Flange-back w/6" Can
Package by Dirty Diesel Customs-Red Deer Alberta
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I have a 1971 F250 automatic with original stock 360 engine (100k miles). It currently has an Autolite 2100 2bbl carb.
The Autolite is leaking gas out somewhere where I can't see the leak. It takes a lot of cranking for it to start after sitting 10 minutes and my wife won't drive it for fear of being stranded. My attempt at a rebuild must have failed... Also have issues with anti-stall dashpot spring coming off while driving. When the spring and plunger come off I have to hold the gas on a little to keep from stalling while stopped at a light. A couple other parts looked like they needed repair during the rebuilt, but the kit didn't have any replacement (vacuum diaphragm torn). Also, after replacing plugs, plug wires, replacing points with Pertronix Ignitor 2, a new rotor, and distributor cap, it still doesn't hold a steady idle. In fact it is hard to get it down to the spec idle for an automatic without fear of stalling.
To make a long story short, what is a low maintenance 2bbl (new, not rebuilt) replacement carb. The truck needs to be dependably started by my wife for garage sale runs and home depot trips. I could switch to a 4 bbl intake, but would rather wait for another 50k miles and switch the engine over to a rebuild 390 with nicer intake and carb.
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I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
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I have a f1ta 5 speed trans on my 4.9 and when i press the clutch in and shift into 1st gear it makes a grinding noise then goes into gear after a little patience. but if i press the clutch and wait a few seconds, then shift into 1st its fine and goes right in.... maybe syncronizers not meshing or they're worn? or could it possibly be a low fluid prob? idk, it just started happening.
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2001 F250 7.3L 280k miles. Truck is new to me in the last 6 weeks. Was driving out to Glenwood Springs last night and I got a weird rear end vibration between 79 and 81 mph - couldn't say if it's a new vibration as haven't had the truck long enough. It's sort of still there over 81 but less obvious than bang on 80. Whilst the vibration was there I caught a slight dip in the road that caused a grinding noise to accompany the vibration - I'm guessing because something's was getting extra loading on the upside of the dip.
I'm away from home until Monday so my options are a bit limited, however while crawling around in the dark last night pushing and shoving stuff to see if anything was loose I noticed a couple of things:
Minor leak from pinion seal - but it has flung some spots of oil. Drive shaft 'center bearing'(? U shaped attachment on drive shaft to chassis with rubber bearing?) has play I can push the drive shaft at least a 1/4" with my hand and it seems a little sloppy but I'm no mechanic.
I'm going to check transmission fluid level today and top up if required and check the magnets, such that I can limp home as necessary avoiding 80 and get the diff checked and pinion seal replaced. Does the drive shaft bearing need changing or should it have that much play? I'm assuming it's LSD on the rear?
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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I'm having trouble disconnecting the transmission lines to replace them. I can't get them off. I have the tool. Can I replace the fittings in the radiator?.
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My 88 celica's manual transmission grinds a little, at times, when going in 3rd gear. I have atf fluid in it now as specified in the manual. Should I replace it with gear oil?
I don't want to damage the transmission or clutch.
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I have a 98 saab 900 se turbo.90000 miles on it. Just had a new clutch kit/throwout bearing and master cylinder clutch installed, as the clutch was going bad.
When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear,and accelerate I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding"/raspy noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd , although it seems that in first gear the rpms go up real fast now (could the gears be slipping again?? this is a brand new clutch..).
The second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive..not sure what to do and what causes this..maybe I just need to check the transmission fluid?
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Well I Took my truck (1985 F250 6.9L IDI C6) and went through a little mud bog got some water in the tranny, no biggy i flushed the fluids out a couple times and went to drive it. But now it wont shift from 1st to 2nd but i can manually shift it from 1-2 I replaced the Modulator and that havent made a difference. Is there anything I should look into?
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On my 96' F-250 4x4, The tranny will shift to 3rd gear and that's it. If I put it in Neutral and then back into drive it will stay in 4th gear for about 15 seconds then go back to 3rd. What could be causing that?
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Have a question when I shift slow from 2nd to 3rd my o2j tranny doesn't grind but when I shift fast from 2nd to 3rd it grinds it happens starting at 3000 Rpms thru 6000 Rpms. It also doesn't happen when I shift from 4th to 3rd. Have performed a tranny fluid change. Along with replacing the clutch at 1500 miles ago. The engine is AWP.
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My 1997 F250 Heavy duty shifts very hard and sometimes feel like it slips out of gear (i press the gas pedal to the floor and speedometer rises very slow and truck doesn't move like it should.
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I have an 05 F 250 super duty with the Triton in it. When I shift either into overdrive or reverse the transmission hesitates (does not go into either gear for about 5 to 10 seconds). After that it engages and it's fine. It does not appear to be slipping or acting up regardless of temperature or speed. Sometimes it will sort of engage and than bang into gear solid. I do not have any check engine lights. Not sure if the PCM has any codes. So I'm trying to figure out if I need to have a complete rebuild or if I have a valve / solenoid body problem Where do I start?
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I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
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