I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
View 1 RepliesI recently changed the clutch in my 1967 F 250, all was golden. This was about 5 months ago , just the other day when going from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a clang and popping feel. the truck was making similar noises before the clutch blew out causing me to change it last time.
View 1 Replies1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
I have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
View 5 Replies1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
I just recently picked up a 87 F250 with a 6.9 and a ZF5 trans. The PO replaced the clutch, and mentioned that he replaced the clutch fork too
Since I bought the truck, I've had some nasty rattling noises. It rattles when in neutral, and stops when I put the clutch in. The noise also comes back on occasion when decelerating at highway speeds, in 2nd as soon as I stop accelerating, and at low speeds in 3rd.
What is causing this?
Currently driving a GTI mk7 autobahn 6MT, this is my first manual transmission i have owned.. and have a question about a squeak like noise i hear when the clutch engages in gear 2 and 3.
This does not happen all the time, however i noticed that some / most of the time when i slowly let the clutch out in gear 2 and 3, right after the clutch engages and i let it out the rest of the way, it makes a squeak kinda sound.. almost like springs contract / retracting, i can also slightly feel it in the pedal.
Question is ...is this some what normal? i have never owned a MT car, and cant remember if such a thing happened while driving friends / family MT in the past..
I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna with approx 64K miles. Recently, I am hearing a squealing noise when the AC clutch engages (AC is working fine and blows very cold air). When AC is off for when the clutch is not engaged - no noise at all..... I have been getting alot of different answers as to what it could be and it is very confusing.... to me - it sounds like a clutch issue and I have seen videos on how to take apart and see if it is a bearing or bad clutch. I did pull the belt and checked the pulley - it turns freely and there is no bearing movement. How I can go about getting it repaired without replacing the entire compressor and other expensive parts.
View 13 RepliesI got a 71 f-250 ranger n it's a beast with a few problems. The most resent is emissions. I have owned it for a year and guy bought it from knows about timing n carbs, but now days most mechanics hate dealing with carbs from what I've found. I'm in az and my emissions came out as a fail, but from what I've read it may be fixable with the right knowledge if any ones willing to share. Here we're my result
Loaded reading. Load standard. Idle read. Idle standard.
Hc. 131. 450. 609. 450
Co. 5.56. 3.75. .11. 5 .0
So it failed idle hc and loaded carbon. So I'm pretty sure my trucks running rich and I know I can adjust its air and fuel, just not tremendously experienced.
2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
2007 Accent with 86k miles. It's not very noisy but sounds a bit sick. It seems to shift fine.
I checked engine oil and the manual transaxle oil. Do I need a new clutch?
I have a 1971 F250 automatic with original stock 360 engine (100k miles). It currently has an Autolite 2100 2bbl carb.
The Autolite is leaking gas out somewhere where I can't see the leak. It takes a lot of cranking for it to start after sitting 10 minutes and my wife won't drive it for fear of being stranded. My attempt at a rebuild must have failed... Also have issues with anti-stall dashpot spring coming off while driving. When the spring and plunger come off I have to hold the gas on a little to keep from stalling while stopped at a light. A couple other parts looked like they needed repair during the rebuilt, but the kit didn't have any replacement (vacuum diaphragm torn). Also, after replacing plugs, plug wires, replacing points with Pertronix Ignitor 2, a new rotor, and distributor cap, it still doesn't hold a steady idle. In fact it is hard to get it down to the spec idle for an automatic without fear of stalling.
To make a long story short, what is a low maintenance 2bbl (new, not rebuilt) replacement carb. The truck needs to be dependably started by my wife for garage sale runs and home depot trips. I could switch to a 4 bbl intake, but would rather wait for another 50k miles and switch the engine over to a rebuild 390 with nicer intake and carb.
I have a unique problem with my newly acquired 71 F250. The left brake does illuminate when the brake is pressed but when the right turn signal if activated the left brake light does come on. The left flasher light also does not work. All other rear ligh function are normal. I am assuming I have a short or a wiring issue just wanted to know if there was any common item that might be know about this topic. The bulbs are all new. The reverse lights do not work either but pretty for sure its unrelated.
View 2 RepliesIn my 1998 Nissan Frontier I had the clutch replaced at about 115,000 miles. That included a "clutch kit" which included a new throwout bearing. Currently, I'm at only 145,000 miles. Much of that is highway miles.
However, a noise has developed. It's a whirring or humming that happens when the clutch is depressed (disengaged). The noise is not present when the clutch is released in any gear, including neutral.
My first guess would be the throwout bearing, but again, that was replaced only 30,000 miles ago, and plenty of highway miles. The original lasted as long as the original clutch.
My second guess would be the pilot shaft bearing. That was not replaced with the clutch. (So the shop says.)
Any other guesses or advice? No matter the case, is it a problem if I leave it be? I can live with the noise if I know it's not really a problem.
2000 GTI
260,000 miles (60% highway)
2.0L 4cylinder AEG
All stock.
I have a new issue developing on the clutch of my car. When I fully press the clutch pedal to change gear, I hear cacophony of grinding, hissing and whirring noise, probably coming from gearbox. When I take my foot off of the clutch pedal completely, the noise is gone. half clutch has reduced amount of these noises. I had this symptom briefly one night two weeks ago and when I topped up oil, this was gone. Tonight, it is back.
I had never been in a Prius until I bought my own 12 months ago. A relatively loud whirring noise accompanied me everywhere I went... "Oh, that's just the electric motor doing its thing!" I would tell myself and my unknowing passengers...
It was my TOTALLY shot tires. Oh sure, they had tons of tread life on them upon purchase, but they lasted a scant 22K miles, got horribly scalloped, developed stress cracks between the treads, and aren't even LRR tires! Indeed, beware of the Bridgestone Potenza Grid019.
The three miles it took to drive home on the TrueContacts were an automotive epiphany. I had no freaking idea how quiet this car really was! Even at highway speed! I feel like a fool.
Well, now I've got an LRR tire, a 6 year/90K warranty, and did it for about 400 total. Shipped to my door for about 350, local place mounted and balanced them for 50.
I have a 2000 VW Passat 1.8T Automatic. During a cold start, I notice a rather loud noise like a motor whirring that lasts for approximately 30 seconds. My RPMs also run about 200 higher than idle during this time. After the 30 secs the noise goes away (sounds like this motor powers down) and the RPMs return to normal.
It doesn't happen every time I start the car, just when it has been sitting for more than 4-5 hours or overnight. What this is and what if anything I should do?
My 2004 Chrysler Sebring with 128K miles is making a loud whirring noise when I accelerate. It does not happen when I break, coast or am idle. I live in a city and potholes are a way of life. I got four new tires in November and had the alignment checked and fixed at the time. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 lexus es 330 that just turned over 90,000 miles. My dad and I have done the regular maintenance on it so far but this weekend after a 3 hour drive, I turned the car back on and a loud whirring/humming/whining noise was coming from the engine. It gets slightly louder with acceleration, but I can barely hear it once I've picked up speed (but it's still there.) It still happens when I am in neutral. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Close to the power steering pump area, but the power steering fluid is full (although it is a very dark/black color and has a slight smell...not sure if this is normal.) I'm not having any trouble or hesitation while steering. The rack is operating smoothly and it is not leaking. I plan on taking it into the shop but wanted to go in educated.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra that makes a RRrrrRRRrRRR noise when turning corners - only to the right. It's not a screeching or scraping noise... more of a loud whirring or humming. One note- back left tire was removed and repaired shortly before this began - could that relate?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
View 2 Replies