Ford Transmission :: 10.25 Trac Lock Clutch Replacement
Apr 14, 2012
I've got the clutch pack rebuild kit for this diff and I'm trying to figure out how to do this without all the special tools. I found this post from a guy who did the job:
Sterling 10.25 Trac lock rebuild
This is a great post, but I can't figure out what he's doing with this "all thread" (is this just threaded rod??) to get the spider gears back in. How does this compress the spring plate in the clutch pack? I don't get it.
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I instead rebuilt the factory trac-lock...well I need more lock....
In the slow crawling I do to get in and out of the camping/hunting/fishing spot with the wife and kids the trac lock just does not lock up well enough.
It I get on it and get it spinning then it will lock up enough but then I fear parts will break, I prefer to slow crawl.
I had my Bronco locked up with Detroit's but I cant do that here it is my DD
So I am back looking at lockable diffs.
I have used ARB and they work well but I came across this Eaton E-Locker. I only saw it for the rear though.
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I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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Lock cylinder needs replacing. Was stuck in the off position and would not rotate. Finally freed it up so I can remove the cylinder.
Question is, will the key that comes with the new cylinder need to be programed. If so how is this done?
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I spent write a bit of time and this process is living proof i can't do it.
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My a/c bearing clutch is making alot of noise well i removed the cluch and snap ring and the bearing is still on there. How do i remove the bearing just pry it out or special tool? Its on a 99 f250 sd.
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My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
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Have a growling noise in the rear when turning for the past two years. Getting worse so I assume I'm getting down to the metal on the clutches. Done all the other stuff like change the fluid and add friction additive. Have not pulled the cover and have the Mag Hytech diff that increases the capacity from 3 to 6 quarts of RP 75W-140 oil. Still does it. Just wanting to know if aftermarket clutch packs are available or is this a dealer only part. Ballpark how much are the clutch packs?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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1994 Ranger 4.0 XLT 4X4. My slave cylinder went out so I thought I would put in a spec clutch in while I'm in there. What do I have to pull off to get the 5 speed tranny / transfer case down? I don't want to pull off what I don't have to but I don't want to make it hard either. No Chilton on hand and I did a search on clutch but found no thread for replacement.
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I have a 1990 Ford Ranger 2.9 4X4 with the Mazda M5OD transmission. I took a peek under the truck the other night and I noticed that my slave cylinder is taking a little leak on me. I was wondering how to go about changing the slave. I could either pull the engine. Or pull the transmission and transfer case.
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I have a 2001 SD 7.3 Manual, in which either the rod or the actuator has broken. I can tell yet which it is. I can mover the lower actuator back and for but that doesn't tell me which part is broken. I have the parts on order to replace. I have been searching without success to find detailed instructions to make the replacement.
I run a small shop away from my day job but have never dug into one of these. Being the various small parts and sequence of disassembly/Assembly I want to do it correctly the first time. It's very strange how you can go to YouTube and search for everything under the sun with great results, except for this.
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My question is what could cause a wheel bearing and CV joint to fail immediately after a clutch replacement and a general inspection?So I brought my 2014 focus with under 50000 miles in due to the normal transmission issues with clutch chatter and hesitation. Also asked them to do a general inspection to come current on my warranty requirements and address a feeling of the car feeling lose into turns sometimes (I thought maybe it is just me getting used to going to summer tires from winter). So they rebuild the clutch and i finally get my car back four days later with a clean bill of health and them unable to recreate the lose sensation in the steering during a test drive.
So fast forward four five days and under 200 miles driven and I had a rapid failure of my front driver side wheel bearing and cv joint. It was fine the day before then after 20 miles of driving it felt like it was about to go. So this is everything I noticed about my car after I got it back:Transmission felt great. No chatter and fast to respond. When I would turn into a parking spot or pull out of one I would sometimes here a clunk (that had never happened before) Drove fine. It rained the day before the failure (not sure if that could contribute) but when I got on the road the next day the wheel went bad very very fast and the rubbing became so severe I limped to the nearest cellphone reception. A 79mile tow later I am back at the dealership who replaced that the wheel bearing and CV. (my car is actually back there right now because they left a bungee cord attached to the coil and it started to make the clicking rubbing noise so I called them to tow it).
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I pulled the trans to replace the clutch and now I cannot get the trans to line back up! I am using a trans jack then two floor jacks with a 4x4 across them to support the transfer case. I am about four inches from the block and either side is either 2 inches high or low. The truck is 1999 f250 7.3 4wd.
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I'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?
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Is it possible to just change the Air Conditioner Clutch on the Air compressor for the volvo V70?it is rattling and all I can find online are new compressors.
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I own a 2010 GTI stage 2+ with 430hp, I just had a clutch replacement from
dodson motorsport that can handle more power up to 700hp, before the replacement I had serious slipping, when I was pushing the car from 4k rpm, the "DSG OVERHEATING" blink on the dashboard, now after the replacement and the dsg software I still have slippage, do you think it comes from mechatronic? The tuners said that might be the mechatronic due to the fact that the two valves of pressure does not send too much oil to the clutches and creates slippage. Should I change only the two valves or the mechatronic complete.
This was the stock "burned" clutch
And this is the new DODSON MOTORSPORT CLUTCH PACK FOR 700whp
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