Ford - Thunderbird :: Misfiring / Engine Struggles To Accelerate
Aug 22, 2011
I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
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I have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
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I have a 2008 accent with about 95k miles on it. I recently took it in to have the oil changed and the mechanic suggested I get a tune up and said my spark plugs needed to be changed. I didn't opt in for the tune up that day and I'm now noticing more problems with the vehicle. At first the car struggled accelerating at about 35-45 mph, but once it reached above that speed it ran fine. More recently the car has really struggled accelerating after it had come to a stop. Today I came out to start the car and it took a couple tries to get it to kick over. Once the car was on I could rev it up but when I put it in gear it struggled to get to 10mph and that's with the gas pedal pressed all the way to the ground. I let it set and came back to it about an hour ago and added transmission fluid, because it was low. The car started a little better, it wasn't shaking as hard, but it still struggles accelerating and won't push pass 30mph. When parked I can rev it all the way up, when I take my foot off the gas the car does threaten to cut off, but it only has once. I'm not sure where to start.
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The past couple days when driving to school in the morning i've been noticing that my car starts to rattle and struggles to accelerate once I pull out of my driveway. Once i get to the next stop sign to take off the car runs fine like nothing ever happened. My check engine light doesn't come on though. I usually let the car sit for about 30 seconds to a minute before i start to move the car. Mods I have are Unitronic stage 2, Forge 007p DV with yellow spring, and 3" downpipe.
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I have a 1987 Ford E-150 with 160K - used to haul the race car. It's had a lot of issues and the latest is that when the engine has warmed up, then shut down, the starter struggles to turn the engine over until the engine cools. Once it does, it turns over and starts right up.
I figure it's the starter getting hot, but I want to know why this would be the case. Does the heat expand the starter shaft so it binds a bit with the bearing? Is it the increased resistance of the wire?
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My 2006 Cadillac misfires when I attempt to accelerate. My mechanic doesn't know what to do?
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I get an intermittent spike in RPM with a lurch in the engine when I'm holding anywhere from 1500-1700 RPM. I say it's intermittent because it might happen three or four times over the span of a few seconds, and then nothing for a minute or two. I don't think it's the transmission because it doesn't happen during shifting, and I can duplicate the problem in D, N, and P. What could be causing the problem?
1991 Ford Thunderbird SC, 3.8L 6 cyl with supercharger, 4 speed automatic transmission172,000 miles
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I'm working on a 93 thunderbird with a 3.8 in it and no check engine lights are on.The engine races at about 2500 rpm in neutral, I changed out the TPS but the idle still was way too high.
My first thought was a vacuum leak and I did find one hose that was rotted away. I then tested for vacuum leaksby spraying some brake cleaner around the intake and all the lines and fittings, but the engine stayed at a constant rpm.
My next guess is the Throttle Air bypass valve.
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I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 5.0 liter engine. Here's the mysterious problem... the engine turns over when I turn the key but stalls when the key is released. Thinking that the alternator died, I replaced it with a new re-manufactured unit and the car's symptoms stayed the same. Also checked the fuses and the fuel filter and found that plenty of fuel is getting to the carburetor. This issue with the car not starting appeared literally overnight after I attempted to install a new radio. Prior to this the car ran reasonably well – always started easily and ran without a problem. Wondering if there is a possibility that I fried some part of the electrical system when I fussed around with all the wiring under the dash. Someone else had attempted the radio installation previously so the wiring there was already a mess of cuts and re-connections and was hard to sort out.
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I have a 2008 prius and can't get get more than 35 mpg. The battery is refurbished, I have done air flow sensor, throttle body, spark plugs and have good tires. I drive 120 miles a day and make 50 stops. I get better mpg on the highway. also, the engine doesn't seem to shut off all the time at a light and the battery is hardly ever in green. Also it seems like the engine struggles a lot, almost like there is an engine brake. I am losing faith. what is the point of this prius.
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My car wont start properly. I have push button start & now the majority off the time the engine struggles to turn over. The starter motor is fine as it revs the engine to around 500 rpm when it toys to turn over but it seems like The engine isn't getting enough fuel or air & stutterers & hesitates. The weird thing is that once its started the car doesn't miss a beat. What it maybe? I have just replaced the sparkplugs, fuel filter & air fitter as part of my 60,000 service I have the car booked into my local dealership but they cant get me in for 2 weeks. I'm a little worried but its probably something small.
I have been lucky enough to catch the car doing it on video & here are 3 links to my youtube videos. On 2 of the videos the fuel is low, however, there is still 10 litres in the tank & this has also been happening at various fuel heels & out door temps.
VID 20130626 140221 - YouTube
VID 20130626 144651 - YouTube
VID 20130626 154933 - YouTube
I have checked a few things out but I cannot diagnose the problem. I believe the first 2 videos you will notice the car shaking a fair bit. Pay close attention to the car revs when starting.
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I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma extended cab, 2.2l engine (not vortec) purchased in the United States. I’m having trouble setting the timing correctly.
I recently replaced the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and chain, and after several attempts to set the timing, the engine still shakes badly and struggles to run smoothly, especially at idle. (It did not do this before the repair.) My code reader picks up the following codes: P0106, P0108. It seems to me that the timing is off despite my best efforts.
I’m going to try and attach a picture of the timing chain and sprockets as they’re currently set because the camshaft timing mark is strange on this vehicle and I’m not sure if it’s lined up correctly. Does it looks right? (Red mark on cam sprocket made by me; timing mark is supposedly the circular hole above that tooth.)
I did several other repairs at the same time that I did the timing. I have gone back over as much of these as possible and I don’t think I did anything wrong. As cars go I’m strictly an amateur but I work as a small engine mechanic so I have some experience with the way things feel when they’re done wrong. Nevertheless, if the timing is right, maybe I botched one of these?
The simultaneous repairs:
Removed head
Replaced hydraulic lifters
Cleaned carbon off valves
Checked pushrod straightness
Changed gaskets (several)
Replaced oil pressure sensor, coolant temp sensor, & thermostat
Replaced coolant hoses
I did all this because I hit the 150,000-mile mark and I want to keep it running for another 150,000.
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I own a manual accent from the 2000 that I have since last December. Fuel pump and battery are new, I changed them after getting the car.
The issues I have and I think they are due to the same reason, are the following.
1. Sometimes, when I turn the key to on position and before cranking, the engine light blinks and the car wouldn't start. Then I remove the key and try again until the light doesn't blink and then the car would start. This could be the second time, the third time or after several times. When the light blinks and I try to start the car, I can hear the fuel pump and the battery working, so the problem must be somewhere else. Also, this issue happens very randomly, it may doesn't happen during two weeks and then it happens one day and next day is OK again.
2. Few times it happened that even if the engine light wasn't blinking, the car started but like without enough power and then it stalled, I tried again, and it has always started OK the second time.
3. A couple of times, I was on the road and stopped the car in a red light and it stalled when I switched to neutral.
4. The car sometimes struggles with the first gear, when I'm switching from neutral to first gear to start the car (after being stopped in a red light for example). The car would start very slowly, even if I'm pushing the accelerator and don't have my foot on the clutch anymore. But after few seconds, the car runs well and I switch to second gear, third gear, etc. and runs perfect. Above 10-20 km/h the car runs perfect, I only have issues (sometimes, not always) at very low speed in first gear.
I think that's it. So far, my mechanic has checked the code problem and he coded a new key, thinking that it was a communication problem between the key and the engine, but it didn't solve the problem. I don't know where to bring the car, because every time someone checks it, they can't find the problem or a solution and I don't want to spend more money for no reason. But I'm also worried that the car breaks down one day in the middle of the road or when I'm in the field with volunteers (I need the car to do field work, but luckily it's not a remote area.
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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It all started after I refueled at Mobil after a rainstorm a month ago. Could be coincidence, but right after that the car started jerking wildly and making a howling wind noise from the front. Thought it was the transmission. Brought to Lexus dealership, they told me nothing was wrong as I had low mileage on the car. There are NO Check Engine lights on the dashboard. Car "quieted down" after that, but the noise remains EXCEPT at high speed when it's quiet.
In addition to that, the jerking / misfiring continues at stops, reversing, and slower speeds on occasion only.
I tried Techron FI cleaner, but it has not made a difference. Filled up several times since then.
What's wrong?
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My F350 idles fine but every 10-15 seconds it mis fires. When asking it to go up hill it sputters and seems to loose power. It runs fine until asked to work hard. Not really sure which direction to go in first.
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I have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
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Every now and then my headlights dim, flicker, and then go out. They will come back on only to do it again a few seconds later. It's only happened 4 times. After the first three times (all while driving on a freeway that was having work done making it but bumbier than usual) I took it to the shop. He tested the electrical system and could find nothing wrong. While he had my car he replaced a bad spark plug that had come off and fried a spot on the boot. I know the two things aren't related but the lights were fine for the next two months. The other night they did it again while I was on a very dark back road and it scared me to death. This road was a little bumpy and very curvy. I've had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine.
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I've got a 2001 F150 and lately, since the weather has warmed up, I've had a problem. After a few minutes on the road, the engine seems to be lacking power and is running hard. It also seems to shake a bit too. It's not overheating and the gauges don't show signs of high temp. My drive to work is 40 minutes and by the last 10 or 15 minutes it seems to be OK. ... A month or so ago when the weather was cold, I had problems keeping coolant due to leaks but that problem seems to have diminished. I don't know if any of that is connected to the original problem or not.
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So my wife's 2005 escape has been slowly losing power over the past 6 months or so. I regularly change the oil, tried new spark plugs, new air filter and still it's lazy. I know it's not a race machine but it struggles on hills.
This winter it was having problems starting unless the accelerator was pushed to the floor. After a cleaning of the Idle control valve all was well again. It has roughly 72,000 miles on it and uses .5-1qt of oil between changes.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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