Ford - Thunderbird :: Cooling Fan Not Turning On / Car Boils Over
Apr 10, 2016
I have a 91 tbird sc, the cooling fan is not kicking in and then car boils over, I changed the temperature sending unit and no DIFFERENCE. I am not sure if in the 91 the cooling fan was supposed to turn on when I hit the defrost, but It did for the last few months, its not any more though,. a mechanic told me it was normal but I don't ever remember it doing that before, also the heater is still blowing heat so i didn't think it was the thermostat. Or water pump???
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I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird LX which seems to have automatic headlights. The second the the engine starts, lights go one, and the second the door opens after the engine turns off, lights go out, no matter where the setting on the headlight switch is.
Me being old school enough and use a switch (especially having vintage autos which keep headlights on and will not alert that they are on), I would rather have the switch function as normal, without an automatic function at all.
Is this even doable with this car, and something that is easily changeable (like a relay or something), or is it borderline with we wiring the car.
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My 1995 Ford Thunderbird has a problem when I turn it off. After turning it off and removing the key the gauges still stay on and the low fuel light come on even though there is a full tank. Every other time I turn the car off the heater fan turns on even though it is in the off position. I replaced the ignition switch and cylinder but it didn't make a difference. I'm thinking it might be the ECU but I don't want to just start replacing more and more things trying to find this out.
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I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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Just picked up a 2011 VW Tiguan 2.0t ... Got back into town and ran her thru a touchless carwash. Got it home tonight and the radiator fan ran for over 45 minutes wide open after I turned off the car before I disconnected the battery. The battery cable is off now until morning. Wet sensor?
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The last few times I drove my car, I noticed the A/C didn't feel very cold. I checked today, and noticed that neither cooling fan comes on with the A/C on. My understanding is that both fans should be in LOW mode with the A/C on. Also, after idling for a while and even after doing some spirited driving and pulling over, the fans never turned on.
From what I'm reading, this sounds like it probably is either the fan control module or the fans themselves failed. Is the fact that both fans don't work in either high or low speed point to this being more likely to be a fan control module? Would this show up as a fault code on a VAG-Com scan?
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Camry 2002 V6 SE.
I had my radiator changed about 2 weeks ago and ever since whenever I drive the car for longer than 30 mins the coolant reservoir boils over as soon as i stop. After much ado i decided to change my radiator cap to one with a higher rating (while my old cap had a 1.0 rating on it the new one has a 1.1 rating), the boiling over in the reservoir has stopped but the upper radiator hose is taut with tension every time and i'm afraid i might damage my engine eventually.
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I have a 24v vr6 and I have deleted my coolant ball (I should also mention this is a dry system, New motor and the rest of the system was dry). Now I have a moroso fill neck that i cut and 90, so it would fit in my upper hose. I'm using a spill free funnel that hooks to the top of the cap and allows me to have the fluid level above the motor . But when I run the motor the coolant looks like it boils out of control and makes a mess of everything. Plus my fans are not kicking.
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Every now and then my headlights dim, flicker, and then go out. They will come back on only to do it again a few seconds later. It's only happened 4 times. After the first three times (all while driving on a freeway that was having work done making it but bumbier than usual) I took it to the shop. He tested the electrical system and could find nothing wrong. While he had my car he replaced a bad spark plug that had come off and fried a spot on the boot. I know the two things aren't related but the lights were fine for the next two months. The other night they did it again while I was on a very dark back road and it scared me to death. This road was a little bumpy and very curvy. I've had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine.
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I've got a 89 ford Thunderbird that I've replaced coil and all other things i can think of but still no spark. I pulled the plug which connects to the coil pack and tested the positive side of plug and not hot with key on then i went to back side of plug and got a hot.
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My electric fan is very noisy and it didn't used to be, and my car is running very hot. Is there any relationship between the two?
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I have a 1997 Thunderbird. The dashboard is having issues. The top of the dash is barely cracked but the part of the dash that goes in front of the instrument panel is badly cracked. It is being held in place with zip ties, and tape. It started with a crack near where the steering wheel was, and then multiple cracks popped up. It also cracked worse after my mechanic had to take it off to fix the rear defroster switch. I do not think I need a whole brand new dash but if I call junkyards just for the part that is cracked, what it is called? I have read the term dash panel, dash, front and dash bezel, but I do not know if they are right.
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My car speakers on my 1997 Ford Thunderbird are still the original speakers that came with car. I have changed the stereo twice so the current stereo is only four years old. I do not think that it sounds as good as it used to but I am not sure. I am thinking of new car speakers since it seems there are many affordable choices. I am wondering what differences I might notice if I change the four speakers out that are nineteen years old. Also what are some things that I should keep in mind when I look online at speaker sets?
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My mom has a 97 Ford Thunderbird. About 1 month ago the air conditioner stopped working, it wouldn't blow out anything. Knowing that it could be a number of items and not sure of the cost, she decided not to have it fixed.Earlier this week it started working again on it's own. It worked for 1 day and then stopped again. What could've caused this? It seems to me that if it came back on that it may be a simple fix like a fuse.
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I have a 1995 ford thunderbird 3.8 l. I changed the heads according to a chilton book. The car ran well for approximately 2 weeks and all of a sudden it started Idling high. I turned the idle screw all the way off and no change.
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my 1995 tbird just sat for a year i replaced the battery but when trying it it clicked it actually clunked i replaced the starter put a jump on it still clunked when trying to turn it the surpentine belt did move inches at a time what else can i try?
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I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
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I was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
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I have a '93 Thunderbird 3.8 v6, auto trans, that was a great running car until I had the water pump replaced. So, I got the pump replaced and then 1 day later the car started to idle around 2500 rpm. It would hit about 45mph without even giving it any gas. I swapped out the mass air flow sensor for a new one. This brought the idle down a little bit. A month later, it shot back up.
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I have a "56 thunderbird with a mid-60"s ford 390 engine w/ 4 bbl holley. I just had engine completely rebuilt and everything else is new: carb, distributor, electric fuel pump, fuel tank, etc.
Problem: car stalls and dies after a few minutes of driving. Generally restarts after waiting about a half hour, but not always. I have a fuel filter with clear bowl in fuel line just ahead of carb. The bowl is usually about 2/3 full of fuel, but general appears empty when the car stalls.
After waiting a while, the bowl refills and the car restarts.
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