Ford - Thunderbird :: 1997 - Dashboard Is Cracked?
Jun 16, 2016
I have a 1997 Thunderbird. The dashboard is having issues. The top of the dash is barely cracked but the part of the dash that goes in front of the instrument panel is badly cracked. It is being held in place with zip ties, and tape. It started with a crack near where the steering wheel was, and then multiple cracks popped up. It also cracked worse after my mechanic had to take it off to fix the rear defroster switch. I do not think I need a whole brand new dash but if I call junkyards just for the part that is cracked, what it is called? I have read the term dash panel, dash, front and dash bezel, but I do not know if they are right.
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My car speakers on my 1997 Ford Thunderbird are still the original speakers that came with car. I have changed the stereo twice so the current stereo is only four years old. I do not think that it sounds as good as it used to but I am not sure. I am thinking of new car speakers since it seems there are many affordable choices. I am wondering what differences I might notice if I change the four speakers out that are nineteen years old. Also what are some things that I should keep in mind when I look online at speaker sets?
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My mom has a 97 Ford Thunderbird. About 1 month ago the air conditioner stopped working, it wouldn't blow out anything. Knowing that it could be a number of items and not sure of the cost, she decided not to have it fixed.Earlier this week it started working again on it's own. It worked for 1 day and then stopped again. What could've caused this? It seems to me that if it came back on that it may be a simple fix like a fuse.
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I have a toyota prado 120 , that I understand is the gx470 in USA. The car have the dashboard cracked. I am evaluating buy a coverlay dash cover cap. I need the dimension of the gx 470 2007 dashboard in order to verify the size. The dimension of the dash near to the windshield is very important.
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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Just did a tear out and rebuild, installed motor, filled with water. Water is leaking out of the back of the engine somewhere. Leaking as if it were coming out of a 1/4" diameter hole. 1997 V4.6L F150. I guess I have to pull it no matter what. Cracked block? Freeze plugs were all new and installed by machine shop. Initial reason for pulling was water in cylinders and I assumed blow head gasket.
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If the exhaust manifold gasket is broke / cracked will it making a ticking sound?
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I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
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I have 170,000 miles on this car. This is a 4 cylinder. The seam at the top of the radiator has cracked, causing a small leak. I have confirmed it is not leaking from the cap if you are curious. So it's time to replace the radiator. My question is: is the radiator easy to replace? I have worked on my car before with basic maintenance (oil, transmission, etc) I was thinking it would be straightforward to replace the radiator myself.
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I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
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I have a 2001 Ford F150 with 165800 miles. I just had my power steering pump, PVC valve, and serpentine belt replaced by tire kingdom this Sunday 3/2/14.
After they replaced those parts, and I picked up the truck. I noticed the truck was making some new noises, these noises occur when I brake an it sounds like a small vibration on my dashboard and there is a noise underneath the truck. the sound also get louder when I roll up and down the window and run the ac. This had never happened before the repairs.
I took it back on Thursday 3/6/14 back to the mechanic and told them about the new problems. Now they said I had a brake problem. So they replaced the calipers, brake pads and rotors. But I still have the weird noise.
The truck still needs two rear tires a new high-end ac line and a freeze plug. Would any of these cause the noise underneath the truck or the noise in the dashboard or is there something else?
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Every now and then my headlights dim, flicker, and then go out. They will come back on only to do it again a few seconds later. It's only happened 4 times. After the first three times (all while driving on a freeway that was having work done making it but bumbier than usual) I took it to the shop. He tested the electrical system and could find nothing wrong. While he had my car he replaced a bad spark plug that had come off and fried a spot on the boot. I know the two things aren't related but the lights were fine for the next two months. The other night they did it again while I was on a very dark back road and it scared me to death. This road was a little bumpy and very curvy. I've had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine.
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I've got a 89 ford Thunderbird that I've replaced coil and all other things i can think of but still no spark. I pulled the plug which connects to the coil pack and tested the positive side of plug and not hot with key on then i went to back side of plug and got a hot.
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My electric fan is very noisy and it didn't used to be, and my car is running very hot. Is there any relationship between the two?
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I have a 91 tbird sc, the cooling fan is not kicking in and then car boils over, I changed the temperature sending unit and no DIFFERENCE. I am not sure if in the 91 the cooling fan was supposed to turn on when I hit the defrost, but It did for the last few months, its not any more though,. a mechanic told me it was normal but I don't ever remember it doing that before, also the heater is still blowing heat so i didn't think it was the thermostat. Or water pump???
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I have a 1995 ford thunderbird 3.8 l. I changed the heads according to a chilton book. The car ran well for approximately 2 weeks and all of a sudden it started Idling high. I turned the idle screw all the way off and no change.
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my 1995 tbird just sat for a year i replaced the battery but when trying it it clicked it actually clunked i replaced the starter put a jump on it still clunked when trying to turn it the surpentine belt did move inches at a time what else can i try?
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I have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
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I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird LX which seems to have automatic headlights. The second the the engine starts, lights go one, and the second the door opens after the engine turns off, lights go out, no matter where the setting on the headlight switch is.
Me being old school enough and use a switch (especially having vintage autos which keep headlights on and will not alert that they are on), I would rather have the switch function as normal, without an automatic function at all.
Is this even doable with this car, and something that is easily changeable (like a relay or something), or is it borderline with we wiring the car.
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I was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
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I have a '93 Thunderbird 3.8 v6, auto trans, that was a great running car until I had the water pump replaced. So, I got the pump replaced and then 1 day later the car started to idle around 2500 rpm. It would hit about 45mph without even giving it any gas. I swapped out the mass air flow sensor for a new one. This brought the idle down a little bit. A month later, it shot back up.
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