Ford - Thunderbird :: 1997 - A/C Keeps Starting And Stopping
Jul 24, 2015
My mom has a 97 Ford Thunderbird. About 1 month ago the air conditioner stopped working, it wouldn't blow out anything. Knowing that it could be a number of items and not sure of the cost, she decided not to have it fixed.Earlier this week it started working again on it's own. It worked for 1 day and then stopped again. What could've caused this? It seems to me that if it came back on that it may be a simple fix like a fuse.
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I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 5.0 liter engine. Here's the mysterious problem... the engine turns over when I turn the key but stalls when the key is released. Thinking that the alternator died, I replaced it with a new re-manufactured unit and the car's symptoms stayed the same. Also checked the fuses and the fuel filter and found that plenty of fuel is getting to the carburetor. This issue with the car not starting appeared literally overnight after I attempted to install a new radio. Prior to this the car ran reasonably well – always started easily and ran without a problem. Wondering if there is a possibility that I fried some part of the electrical system when I fussed around with all the wiring under the dash. Someone else had attempted the radio installation previously so the wiring there was already a mess of cuts and re-connections and was hard to sort out.
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I have a 1997 Thunderbird. The dashboard is having issues. The top of the dash is barely cracked but the part of the dash that goes in front of the instrument panel is badly cracked. It is being held in place with zip ties, and tape. It started with a crack near where the steering wheel was, and then multiple cracks popped up. It also cracked worse after my mechanic had to take it off to fix the rear defroster switch. I do not think I need a whole brand new dash but if I call junkyards just for the part that is cracked, what it is called? I have read the term dash panel, dash, front and dash bezel, but I do not know if they are right.
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My car speakers on my 1997 Ford Thunderbird are still the original speakers that came with car. I have changed the stereo twice so the current stereo is only four years old. I do not think that it sounds as good as it used to but I am not sure. I am thinking of new car speakers since it seems there are many affordable choices. I am wondering what differences I might notice if I change the four speakers out that are nineteen years old. Also what are some things that I should keep in mind when I look online at speaker sets?
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I have a 1998 Ford Ranger, 3.0 4X4. Purchased in early 2002 with a clunking problem which has not gotten worse or better. When I take off it is a heavy double 'clunking' like something shifting and the settling. I have had 4 mechanics look at it, have changed the front u joint and have had the motor and transmission mounts checked but the mounts are OK. Can't figure this out. I talked to a person at a local car parts store and he mentioned that it could involve the 'yoke' and that it just might need to be greased but he was just guessing.
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Whenever I take off from a stop or slow to a stop, there's a clunk in the drivetrain. It feels like a bit of play before the drivetrain engages and when it releases...torque converter maybe? Taking to the tranny shop soon...
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I have an 08 F-250 CC SB 4x4 Diesel truck that has since new clunked when starting out from a stop and/or coming to a stop. I have 16k on it now and am getting really tired of dealing with it... The clunk starting is when I let off the brake and just apply the throttle. It feels like something slips and then clunk.
The clunk when stopping is the same as starting, except when coming to a stop.This is unloaded or when loaded w/ cargo and/or trailers. I know I can go to the dealer, but I don't want to un-spartan my truck for this...
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2016 2L Escape. My question is this. I've had the vehicle for the past 12 months and each rainy season here in California, I admit its not often we get rain but we have it now and its about time. Anyway while driving in wet conditions I get a squeak from what I think is the right rear sway bushing and it only happens during starting out, stopping and parking lot speed bumps all at low speed. No noise at when driving at speed. I've had it to the dealer 3 x to fix, they grease the bushing and it seems ok for awhile but not he permanent fix I was hoping for.
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I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
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I have a 2005, Volvo S80, it has 107,500 miles on it. In the last two months the car has started (NOT everytime I drive but sometimes and then the next time I drive it it is fine), jerking and sometimes a thunk sound as it jerks. When it is doing it it does it s I finish stopping from going fast or slowly AND then when I accelerate it feels like a the car has a delay from the gas pedal. And starts with a jerk and the thunk sound.
When I brake what happens make me imagine that the wheelbase has stopped and the the body of the car is still going and clunks as it stops too. Like it is lurching over the wheel base. Sometimes it does it the whole time I am driving (starting and stopping) and other times the car drives fine. Talking to several mechanics they all seemed stumped and have never heard. But mechanic guesses that they want to fix have been electrical board shorting, timing belt, transmission needing to be flushed. What this actually is? And what needs to be done about it.
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Today I was driving my 2005 Honda CRV when suddenly the car starting revving up while slowly stopping. It would not move after that. Car still reved up while stepping on the gas. Had to be towed to a mechanic. They could not look at it today.
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I have recently noticed a vibration that occurs at VERY low speed - such as below 0mph and 1mph, while just starting (or stopping).
The best way to describe this vibration is that it feels somewhat similar to going over a rumble-strip - but not quite so intense.
It only happens for a very short time while just starting off (or coming to a stop) - and then goes away. You almost have to try to make it happen. If I try to carefully control the increase of the car's speed, I can -sort of- extend the amount of time that this happens.
I certainly have to be on the 'look out' to notice this and attempt to make it happen to really identify it. Otherwise, (if I accelerate too quickly i.e.: normally) it just feels like a couple of bumps in the road.
I think I read on here somewhere something about a breakdown of the winding insulation that provides such an effect? Is there any straightforward way (perhaps with a scan gauge or other tool) to conclusively diagnose this?
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I have a 2001 xc70 105,000 mi. the tranny is clunking when it gets warmed up, stopping and starting. it doesn't do it at highway speeds. when its cold it doesn't do it at all. no messages as in check engine lights.
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Hyundai makes squeaky noise when starting and stopping engine, starting to move and also when traveling at speed (during gear changing, turning, etc). What causes it? See website below for video with noise:
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Why are My Tires Wearing Unevenly?
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A year ago, I was driving down the highway ,gas low,and it just died. Half hour later stasrts right up. No problem since then until 2 months ago. It's died 4 times in last 2 months regardless of how much gas in tank. Just stops out of blue when coming to stop signs. Half hour or so will start right back up with no problem.
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This miss feels like the engine is stopping not just missing but jerking the car for one cylinder. If I just barely hold speed it is minimized or if I step on it it will stop so I'm pretty sure it's not ignition wires or coils etc.. I would suspect pre-ignition but it's been going on a long time ( a year at least) while I've been half fast trying to figure it out so if it's pre-ignition then this is a hell of a strong engine. I have suspected a slightly sticky injector because of the working fine at more throttle. 1997 3.4DOHC Monte Carlo
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Every now and then my headlights dim, flicker, and then go out. They will come back on only to do it again a few seconds later. It's only happened 4 times. After the first three times (all while driving on a freeway that was having work done making it but bumbier than usual) I took it to the shop. He tested the electrical system and could find nothing wrong. While he had my car he replaced a bad spark plug that had come off and fried a spot on the boot. I know the two things aren't related but the lights were fine for the next two months. The other night they did it again while I was on a very dark back road and it scared me to death. This road was a little bumpy and very curvy. I've had the battery and alternator checked and they are both fine.
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2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
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I've got a 89 ford Thunderbird that I've replaced coil and all other things i can think of but still no spark. I pulled the plug which connects to the coil pack and tested the positive side of plug and not hot with key on then i went to back side of plug and got a hot.
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My electric fan is very noisy and it didn't used to be, and my car is running very hot. Is there any relationship between the two?
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