Ford - Thunderbird :: 1963 - Intermittent Idle When Warm Up After Substantial Drive
Dec 11, 2012
Engine is a 69 390, fresh rebuild by the PO... Aluminum intake manifold and new Edelbrock 4bbl Drop in Crane ignition.
Runs great... Except when its warm out, or even on cold days when its warmed up after a substantial drive..
AT that point here is what happens: No issue until I shut it off then it diesels badly, THEN.. When I restart it will not idle, dies.. If I keep my foot on the accelerator it will keep running, but not well.. If I let it run for a good while, 5-10 mins, it smooths out... Consistently acts like this .. Again.. Not when the engine is cold, and not on a cold day until it really warms up..
I suspected a vacuum leak? Replaced any suspicious vac tubing.. Cant get to the AT modulator easily, have not checked it yet?? Also suspect the intake manifold??
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I have a 05 fx4 5.4L with 85k on it. It has started idling rough when i come to a stop light or slow down to 10 mph or less. It only does it once in a while. There doesn't seem to be any real pattern. The motor shakes until you rev it up and then it goes away.
I have cleaned the maf, put in new air filter and fuel filter. And put in a new battery. Would a coil act like that? Maybe plugs? Or a vacuum leak?
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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I rebuilt a 1963 ford 2B crburetor with manual choke. Put the carburetor on and it runs very rough. Won't go below 800 rpm or it dies and I need to choke it to start. Thought it was a vacumn leak so sprayed WD -40 and no change in idle. So pulled off the carburetor and put on the previous carburetor (with electric choke) and it runs great. I want to use the manual choke to hook up the cable though. I replaced everything in the carb. What do you think it is?
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I get an intermittent spike in RPM with a lurch in the engine when I'm holding anywhere from 1500-1700 RPM. I say it's intermittent because it might happen three or four times over the span of a few seconds, and then nothing for a minute or two. I don't think it's the transmission because it doesn't happen during shifting, and I can duplicate the problem in D, N, and P. What could be causing the problem?
1991 Ford Thunderbird SC, 3.8L 6 cyl with supercharger, 4 speed automatic transmission172,000 miles
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This is what my car is doing after it warms up. It will do it then stop, then do it again and so on. I am pretty sure when the motor is under load it runs a little rough but is hard to tell. The car has 178,000 miles on it. timing belt was done at 113,000. I just replace the plugs and wires changed the oil and the air filter 1,000 miles ago. and it will still do it. I am at a loss as to why it keeps doing this. I have tried injector cleaner, sea foam and engine restore. What would cause this? The check engine light is not on. i replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor about 40,000 miles ago.
Its a 2003 hatch with the 1.6 5 speed .....
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I have a 2010 corolla with 32k miles, automatic transmission. I have an intermittent low idle issue when it rained or when it is below freezing 32F. It happens when I am in drive and about to brake to a complete stop. The idle dips to around 500 rpm, the engine shudders and the car shakes then after a second or two, the engine idle goes back up to 800 rpm. There is no engine concerns at any other speed just at idle. I have no CEL codes. The engine never stalls. Low idle when braking.
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It had no spark when I put a spark tester on, a few minutes later it started and runs fine. This has happened several months ago. Is their a way to test the spark control module.
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I have a '93 Thunderbird 3.8 v6, auto trans, that was a great running car until I had the water pump replaced. So, I got the pump replaced and then 1 day later the car started to idle around 2500 rpm. It would hit about 45mph without even giving it any gas. I swapped out the mass air flow sensor for a new one. This brought the idle down a little bit. A month later, it shot back up.
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I have a stock 1986 Bronco with a 351w/C6 and towing package. Recently it has started doing some things differently. It clunks when going into reverse or drive, but only when warm. It makes a weird clicking noise at low speeds. There is a severe vibration at around 60 mph when under power, but it goes away when I let off the throttle
This started in the last 500 miles or so of a 3000 miles move across the country. How do I go about diagnosing what exactly is wrong with this? I'm not having much luck with finding others who have had these same symptoms.
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If the truck is cold when i put it in drive it engages fine. Drive to the store, start it up again after its warm, I then need to rev to 800 rpm to get it to engage. Once drive is engaged one time i can go from park to drive, rev to drive doesn't matter it works correct every time. Rebuilt the transmission with suncoast kit. New precision industries billet torque converter. New trans pump, new valve body, replaced all pistons and seal rings. Replaced all the solenoids except lo rev and overdrive. Will change those in the next couple days. Side note transmission had this exact issue before i rebuilt it. Exhaust back pressure reads 55 to 60 psi at idle. I replaced sensor, cleaned pipe, and checked the wires for cuts. Previous owner had a smoke switch wired up at some point but he removed it before i bought it. Truck is tuned by innovative, sxt livewire... does the same thing with stock tune.
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I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
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On my '12 F-150 Ecoboost there is a substantial opening in the lower center of the vehicle. I know that you can purchase a small after-market grill insert for that area. Is it wise to do that, or is in fine the way it is?
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I have a 63 Falcon that the generator went out on. I replaced the generator and the regulator and it still isn't charging. A friend of mine told me if I disconnect the FLD at the generator and connect a jumper between FLD and the battery + terminal it should start charging which it does. I have swapped out two different generators and regulators now and it is still doing it.
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I guess it would be classified as very intermittent but in the past year I have had 3 separate times when my truck has after a short drive suddenly had zero boost..
Pull over and turn it off for 30 sec or so and all is fine. Cycle the ignition faster than that and issue persisted. It has only happened in colder temps. In all the reading I have done on FTE I've not come across anything similar.
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Second off my 01 PSD CC has a issue. When its more or less sunny and hot out 90+ at idle A/C blows warm .... I've just replaced my fan clutch as it was lose a bit .... Also replaced dyer VVO and compressor recently. Idle low is at 40 and high is at 190 200 ...
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2007 Malibu, heat only blows warm during acceleration, when you come to stop/idle heat blows cool. Temp gauge remains constant in normal operating range while driving.
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I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
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I have a 96 E-350 7.3 PSD. I noticed that the A/C seems to work well on the Highway but not so well stopped Idling. I thought maybe it was airflow so I replaced the Fan Clutch... Seemed like it was better for while (could have been my imagination)... I decided to evac the system and refill. The system takes 4 lbs of freon. The van was indeed low so I thought I had found my problem, but it didn't seem to work after evacing and refilling.
With gauges on the system the low side pressure when it was 80 degrees out this morning was 70 and the high side was 145. A/c temp from the vents was about 70.. If I raised the RPM's to about 2k, the low side would drop to around 30-35 the high side would stay about the same... and the AC in the Cabin was in the 50's...
Does this problem have to do with air flow over the condenser, or is possible that the compressor is getting tired. (The compressor stays on the entire time) Could it be a clogged orifice?
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I have a 2008 Mazda 6 that has been a great car, but with it getting warmer, every time I use the AC the air coming through the vents starts warm then cools, then warms then cools. What is causing it to be so inconsistent? As far as I know the AC has never been recharged or serviced.
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Back after months...van has been checked by 2 ford dealer mechanics here in VA , nothing.
Now it's the opposite ...temp outside 90 or higher, drive it for 8 -10 ml, park and come back after 15 min. From shopping, try to start, won't idle, stalls every time I try , after 6-8 attempts, back to normal, all together 3 times, last time was so bad, had a real problem to make it back home, at every stop, it stalled.
Back to the shop ....they drove several times, no show ...it's fine, don't know what to do ????
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