Ford :: Temp Gauge Never Goes Near Red But Engine Gets So Hot It Shuts Down While Driving
Jun 20, 2012
I'm having a problem with my 92 crown vic overheating the radiator and thermostat have been replaced, the temp gauge never goes near the hot range but the engine gets so hot it shuts down while I'm driving. I am a rural mail carrier so I use the car for about 5 hours a day, I have to stop and let the engine cool by opening the hood for about a half hour after driving for 1 1/2 hours. I am not losing any coolant and the fan appears to be working.
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle whether the car is off/idling/driving. I am wondering whether this could possibly be an issue with my coolant temp sensor/sender, or wiring.. Or since its just stuck there, would it be the gears of the actual gauge..
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I have a 2002 Kia Sedona mini van and last night while driving home the light that for the gas gauge and temp gauge went out, the other dash lights are still working. How difficult is it to replace a dash board light and how do you find out how to get to this light bulb?
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I have a 2003 gti 1.8t motor with 80,000 miles on it. I have been experiencing the temp gauge spiking to 260 when driving around and any time over 50mph. The car is not over heating and I just replaced the temp sensor and it did not solve the problem. The check engine code was something like coolant temp sensor low input i cleared the code after changing the sensor and has not come back on.
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I had to have my transmission replaced after i lent my car to my dad who then hit a massive pothole and destroyed my transmission along with tire and rim. Got my car back and while driving home, I noticed my temperature gauge didn't move. Got home, parked the car and let it run and no movement from the gauge at all. Unfortunately, I retrieved my car shortly before the shop closed so I can't call them until tomorrow but what this could possibly be?
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I have a 95 s10 4.3L V6 auto with 92k miles.
This all started when one day on my way to work the temp gauge got to 260 then quickly fell. It has not gotten that hot since then.
When I start the truck cold and start driving, the gauge climbs to about 215-230 within 10 minutes of driving. Once the gauge hits what ever is the magic mark for the day it quickly falls (10 seconds or less) to about 170-180. Sometimes it will "cycle" up again to 200 or so then fall back to 170-180. Once it is done moving around it stays low and will not move much as I am driving.
I bought an IR thermometer and measured the temperature at various points in the cooling system. The top of the thermostat housing is about 195 or 200 right after it climbs and drops. If I drive for a while around town then check it, the housing reads hotter, about 220 max.
There does not seem to be enough temperature drop across the radiator, I have measured about 15 degrees difference max between the hoses and on some days only 10 degrees difference.
I have replaced the fan clutch (was bad or going bad), the thermostat, and the radiator cap.
After none of this fixed it, I took it to a mechanic who did a "block test" at my request and said it was fine. He thought what it was doing, climbing and falling was normal.
If I run it without the radiator cap on I do not see much if any flow when I look down into the radiator.
Right now I am thinking of doing the water pump and flushing the radiator this weekend.
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97 f250 4.6l engine pegs the temp gauge after start-up. the oil pressure light comes on then after a few miles down the road anti-freeze blows out the pressure cap (15LB) then the temp goes down ,the oil light goes off and everything is normal. no its not the thermostat, i changed that and it still does it. whats up with that?
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I noticed on cold mornings (40-50s) the gauge does not go half way even driving 30 minutes, about a bit more than 1/3. In the afternoon or most of the time it points to about middle.
Is the gauge that sensitive or there is a problem with the thermostat? The thing is I don't feel the car is slow to warm up normally, I rarely heard of thermostat problems on a Toyota until a whole lot of miles. I wish I have one of those ODB2 logger now and maybe it reads the coolant temperature.
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So I noticed a few days ago when driving the turbo around that the temperature gauge fluctuates... ALOT. it will warm up to full operating temp, then when driving will go way down, almost to the cold line again and SLOWLY rise up, and when I mean slowly, I mean it takes about an hour or so to get there.
Well today, I changed the oil, there were about 2 qts in there but the car was about 2k overdue. MY BAD! So upon driving around seattle/bellevue/redmond today, noticed the gauge doing the same thing, and I am stumped, IDK why it would be doing this, the car doesn't overheat or anything.
Also, the girlfriend said that when she was driving the car, in the warmer weather, even while moving the temp gauge read almost hot, and the car was telling her to shut it off etc... I seriously am at a lose here.
The other night we noticed the TAIL light was out, but the brake light still worked. Last night we were out with some friends, they said that the TAIL AND BRAKE lights were not working, but ONLY on the drivers side, the passenger side worked as it should, we also noticed that when we hit the brakes, the front drivers corner light comes on and stays on until we take our foot off the brake.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 3.7L that has a temperature gauge on the dash that reads an overheat when driving. The oil looks normal, there is no white smoke, no bubbling from reservoir. I have replaced the following:
Radiator
Thermostat
Water Pump
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Coolant Reservoir Tank
I am not leaking any coolant and the reservoir level has been fine. I have let the vehicle idle for 20+minutes, with no overheat. When I drive it around, the temperature gauge will read an overheat. When I stop the car and pop the hood, the engine is not overheated and both rubber hoses to/from radiator are flowing the coolant. The only thing that will bring the gauge down is turning on the heater full blast. Could this be the gauge itself being bad? Could it be a short in a wire somewhere? I had thought maybe a head gasket, but have no symptoms of a head gasket.
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2004 Passat 1.8T, I was driving down a highway in my hometown, my odometers got stuck, gauge lights turned off, Radio and air control lights dimmed fully, everything else works. i get home check my fuse box-fine, check my battery connection-fine. try to turn my car back on and the engine starts but then it shuts off, the gauge lights still wont turn on and the odometers are still stuck. So I check the wires under the driver floor-not corroded or water damaged or loose. I take it to the (gas station) shop down the street from my house. They have no idea whats wrong. possibly immobilizer, possibly a security mode my car is stuck in, possibly my car isnt recognizing my cars, sounds like my computer wont talk to my car.... They said its over their head (obviously).
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I have a 2002 Volkswagen Golf 2.0, I was driving and the temperature gauge starting raising pretty quickly. I stopped, checked the coolant and oil, both were at normal levels. The car cooled down pretty quickly, and I drove a little and it raised again. The heat is coming out cold despite the hot temperature. Overheating, normal coolant levels, no heat.
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Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
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My 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS has had 0 problems. It has about 132K on it, but it's still awesome.
I was stuck in some nasty traffic the other day in 95 degree NC weather, and was idling for about 15 minutes with the AC on. Out of nowhere, it felt like my AC got warm and I saw my coolant temp gauge spike from just under midway to 3/4 of the way. Unsettling.
As soon as I got on the gas and drove for about 5-10 seconds, it dropped precipitously back to normal. I was able to recreate this behavior once I got home. Normal driving results in normal temperature. Both fans appear to running.
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Okay, I was driving down the freeway and suddenly my temperature gauge zoomed to Hot and steam rose out of the car. I stopped the car and let it cool down, then drove the 5 miles very slowly to the mechanic-stopping twice to let it cool completely.
I got it to the mechanic and a huge crack appeared across the top of the radiator when the car was on. New radiator time-gotcha. She has 235K miles on her and before this ran like she was brand new.
Now not a couple days later, I started noticing that transmission fluid was leaking about 1/2 cup of fluid a day dripping down from the axle. Can I use a stop leak for transmissions/transaxle? Would it fix the issue temporarily...
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My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
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2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
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I have a Chevy lumina Euro 3.1l from '92. I have a little problem with it:
My temp gauge, in the dashbord, says the engine is getting to hot. When the car is in idle, the temp gauge will just keep rising to around 190-200 F, when driving 2-3 miles, it will keep going up to 260 F and the heat indicator will start flashing.
When we measure the engine's temperature with a IR thermometer at the thermostat house it says 180 F, so the thermostat and the fans work just fine. (the fans kick in when getting over 180)
We have tryed replace the temp sensor twice, but getting the same result/problem. The problem just came out of nowhere.
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I just bought a 2014 Sonata GLS two weeks ago and have a question about the car icon below the engine temp gauge inside the tachometer. Looking for description of its function? It shows the card doors open. I believe it also shows the trunk open. But the owners manual doesn't mention it and I can't find any information online about everything it shows.
Specifically, I'm getting a low tire pressure indicator (we just started getting temps below freezing here). When the car is driving, the little car icon shows the tires, but the back driver's side tire is missing. Does that mean that that's the tire with the issue? Not a big deal, but I'm still figuring the car out and that would be a really cool feature. Also, does the little car icon show anything else?
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I got my car back finally and on the way down the belt way i started sliding around a big turn and I get home to see my temp gauge way up and all the coolant went all over my engine .
I took it to a shop the did pressure test and that was fine, But the also found jell around the thermostat. The other thing they said is that it had air bubbles in it too. They said exhaust bubbles. But when they ran it it didn't heat up any more. They said its the early stages of blown head gasket ..
I took it to the dealer right away and they are telling me they cant find any thing wrong. Both places asked if i put stop leak in there but I never added anything to my car. So I am lost and don't know what to do.
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