Ford - Taurus :: Suddenly Starts To Slow Down / No Acceleration
Sep 16, 2013
This morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
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On Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
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On my Ford Taurus the car seems to just suddenly accelerate on its own. The RPMs jump and and the car gains seed. I take my foot of the gas pedal and try to lift up it just keeps going faster. It seems the only way to stop it is to mash on the gas pedal and lift up and than it will start to slow down. What is going on? I have a 2004 Taurus SES with 119323 miles.
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Battery was replaced about three weeks ago after noticing slow cranking start-ups. Prior to that, the most recent repair was to replace a faulty coil assembly and ignition wires about nine months ago. The faulty coil assembly caused the car to sputter and lose power.
Currently, after the car has been run for at least a half-hour, and after the engine has been off for a few minutes, 5 or so, the engine will barely crank or won't turn over at all on re-start. I found that after letting the car rest and cool for a little while, I can get it to start, but it cranks very slowly. Once started, the car runs fine. The car always starts fine and cranks over very strongly if the engine is cold.
I've had the charging system and alternator checked, and everything appears to be normal. I've not had any warning lights illuminate on the dash. Fluid levels are all normal. The engine runs fine and does not overheat. Battery connections are tight and wires look okay. What could be done to diagnose the problem?
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1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
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Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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I'm driving a Ford Taurus 2004 and the car's AC is broken. When we turn it on, it starts blasting super hot air, hotter than the outside. We're told that the AC was leaking and the Freon is gone. The guy in the car shop told us that we needed to completely replace our AC system, which costs $1500. If we leave it unrepaired, then the compressor will eventually be stuck, which in turn will destroy the belt. Because the AC compressor, water pump, and alternator are all sharing the same belt in this model, breaking the belt would destroy the car.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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My 1995 Taurus SE check engine comes on shortly after starting, cuts out for two seconds on rapid acceleration, and the check engine lights goes off for ten seconds. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, the spark plugs, and the air filter. I have tried Techron injector cleaner. It is better but the check engine light is still on and it cuts out as before.
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I was driving my Taurus a few days ago when it lost all acceleration and power steering. The engine seemed to be running okay, and it restarted at the side of the road, but still no acceleration. I called AAA and had it towed to my mechanic. The following day they called and could find no problem.....
they had driven it several times, checked out likely causes but found nothing. This garage has been very reliable in the past. They said it could just be an electrical issue that may or may not happen again. The car seemed fine when I was driving it today, but I am worried about it happening again. What could have caused this/what I should do?
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus with new battery and cables, new alternator, less than 100,000 (barely). Recently made a trip from austin to dallas and back. On the way back, on the interstate, car suddenly refused to continue acceleration (no indicator lights came on); pulled to the shoulder, shut everything off; waited about five minutes, car started up on first try..continued driving; about 12 miles later, same thing occurred. Pulled over, turned everything off, started up again just fine, drove the rest of the way home.
Took it to my mechanic, he ran diagnostics..found nothing. Ran perfectly on short drives around town for three weeks; three weeks later, another road trip...did not run air conditioner or anything extra on the drive; about 30 miles from final destination, same thing...lost speed, wouldn't accelerate, pulled over, shut it off...started right up again and ran fine to final destination. On the way home, about 100 miles into return trip, same thing.. lost acceleration etc. But this time would only keep running correctly for about 20 or so miles each time. Was happening so frequently, had it towed home. Got home, started right up, drove fine. the only thing my mechanic noted on last inspection was the AC would not turn off. Could this be an electrical or switch problem?
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I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
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Ok - I admit, I don't have a good description of what's going on, but it's not normal. When I accelerate slowly, or go up a hill, I'm hearing a "rattling" sort of noise that did not used to be there. I have heard it also when slowly decelerating.
I need to crawl under and look, but my big concern is I'm about to go on a 2000 mile trip with a small horse trailer. Could this be a festering major engine, transmission, or otherwise problem?
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Lets say I want to do rear axle swap, how I would go about this? Would I have to do anything to my tranny or transfer case? and all in all would it be worth it if I am looking for more speed out of my 460? the fastest I can go for an extended period of time is about 55 if i go above that for to longit wears on the gears and overheats the rear end. It has slow acceleration, and I am sure the low slow gears put out a lot of power, but they drink gas. And even though I am good at driving stick, its hard to take off because there's only about two inches of clutch travel that i have to take off, its not the clutch, its the gears.
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I have a 2005 Prius that worked fine until I was told last year (March 2012) my brake pads needed to be replaced and the rotors were warped and needed to be trued. Since that work was completed, when I apply the brakes the first thing in the morning or when it is wet, the car will slow down and then suddenly lock up. This throws me forward and I get a jolt from the seat belt. The dealer has been unable to duplicate it and tells me the brakes are mechanically fine. Sometimes when this occurs I hear a loud clunking sound from the rear of the car. The last time I took it to the dealership they told me the Prius has an issue with the brakes rusting, but they are mechanically fine. I still have my doubts.
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I've got a 2008 5.4L I just bought. The previous owner just ran around the city and never pulled anything with it. After the truck has been pulling and the engine is hot, when I slow down to an idle the engine starts to diesel. This lasts for a few seconds then goes back to normal. Is this just because the engine isn't used to working and the computer hasn't adjusted yet? is this something that could be serious and I should have checked out by a garage?
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My husband and I bought a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria not too long ago. We have already had to replace the brake lines 2 times (well, first the front and then a few weeks later the back). It has had nothing but problems. One thing is the air conditioner, but that probably just needs charged.
Now on to the bigger problems. All of a sudden we started having unintended acceleration. It is strong enough that if you don't have the brake pressed hard it will move your car forward every 5 seconds. The engine revs up on its own. This happens every time we stop anywhere. Including when I was pulling into a parking spot last night. I went very slow and as I was turning pressing on the brake it revved up and I thought for sure the way it jerked, it was going to go over the curb into the road. This scares the crap out of me.
Also, we have a problem with the slow (very slow) start. I know they had a recall on the cruise control, but I have not heard of any recalls on this. However, I did read somewhere about accidents happening due to this and something about it had to do with the way Ford build the car.
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I took my 2011 Lariat in for first service and reported that it sometimes tries to accelerate on its own during slowdown from high speed, eg when coming off a freeway ramp, rpms go up and vehicle wants to speed up rather than slow down. (sounds like something a Toyota would do!)
Dealer says its a known problem with 5.0L and performed a supposed fix per "TSB 11-8-9, 5.0L ENGINE BRAKING PERFORMANCE DURING LOW SPEED COAST DOWN," essentially a PCM reflash.
Happened once in a parking lot...thought the floormat was stuck on the accelerator but the pedal was clear.
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