Ford - Taurus :: Steering Instability - Jerking At Intervals?
Oct 20, 2012
I recently took my 1990 Ford Taurus to a garage. Driving it is unpleasant, or more accurately, steering it. Something going on in the steering wheel. Odd internal movements. The garage said there were worn parts. They replaced the rack and pinion, both outer tie rod ends, the subframe bushings, and the subframe itself. Still has the same problems. But, the steering itself is stable. I do not understand this. I took it on the Interstate, got it up to 75mph. Removed my hands from the wheel and car continued travelling in a straight line requiring only very slight pressure at intervals to correct for small drift - and that was despite high wind gusts.
So, what is with the sensation in the steering wheel? It feels like it is jerking at intervals. No noise associated. End result is that I do steering correction that isn't always needed.
What is going on? I don't drive this car much, but it used to handle very nicely. Certainly got a big enough repair bill that didn't seem to address the problem.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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My wife drives a 2013 RX 350 AWD. During this winter, when she turned right (once from a standstill, once without standstill), the car went out of control at a very low speed. The vehicle has around 12000 miles on the odometer. The Lexus dealer could not replicate it. He said it might have been snow on the wheels. I too experienced it once and was very scared to use her car after that.
Here is what happens: Turned right at slow speed, suddenly the car sort of accelerates goes left, right and kind of rocks and then after 15 feet or so steadies itself. My wife has reduced her own usage of the car due to the freight she got twice.
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Is it true that a going from the OEM tire on the genII prius to larger 195/60/15 can cause or increase instability issues. I would think the point is to have wider tires to improve the stability...
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This front end steering wheel wobbling and sometimes outright jerking is really annoying. Only happens at around 45mph, usually decelerating or coasting from a higher speed. Doesn't happen at low speeds, doesn't happen over 50. Doesn't happen when braking.
Took wheels off, tires are fine. Rotated smooth, tires about 2 years old, even tread wear, not bad. Small amount of play on driver's side front when I grab wheel. I guess this means I might have to replace that wheel bearing? Friend keeps insisting it's a warped tire. I just don't see that. No loose play in ball joint, bushings, tire rod, etc.
I guess I'll take wheel off again and check rotors. There's a little rust build up on outer ring. But it's not doing it when braking. Perplexed!
I guess I'll have wheel balance checked, but I switched the R to F out (and even tried old tires mounted on wheels switched out from my old 940). Didn't seem to make a difference, but that was several months ago.
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I have a 2000 taurus and I have been having trouble with my power steering. Its leaking badly & from where I see it is Leaking is under the car on the passenger side by the tire. Also essentially the taurus power steering runs on transmission fluid so could it be a practical idea to use trans stop & sea to slow the leakage til I get to a mechanic?
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finding out what is wrong with my Taurus. I have searched all over the internet not finding any posts about a similar problem. When driving after I turn past a certain point only to the left not to the right. The car slips into neutral revving, then once Ive straitened out somewhere along the wheel turning radius it re-engages in gear and lurches forward. The car drives fine and shifts smoothly except this.
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2015 TDI SE with sunroof. Wife's 3rd VW, 2nd TDI.
Under 1,000 miles. We both noticed it pulling to the right when on any road. The first thing that came to mind was tire pressure. I checked it. 50 PSI from the dealer/factory. We're running the Bridgestone run flats. The pressure in the door well says to set them at 35psi. The dealer was a little shocked when we brought it in that either one of their guys set it that high or someone from the factory did. The sidewall on the Bridgestone says 51psi max.
The dealer knocked down the pressures and gave us a free alignment. They said they road tested the car as well and it was good. We didn't get 2 miles away and when you let your hands off the wheel it will still pull right an entire lane in between 100-200 yards.
Is there a TSB out there on this? I'll be taking it back next week to get it looked at again. I drove a 2.5SEL when we got the tint/spoiler installed, tracked perfectly. I drove a 1.8TSI when we got the alignment done, tracked perfectly.
Also, the 1.8L was pretty impressive for a car that big. I believe it has about the same amount of power than the 2.5 but it seemed to have a lot more get up and go. Transmission however was VERY jerky and had a tough time finding the right gear.
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2004 Ford Taurus - transmission was going out last Aug - had it rebuilt (new seals and torque converter) got it back steering wheel was slightly off (1/2 inch) of being the center when driving straight. Took a while to get it back to the shop - life happens - took back today - said they did everything they could and really needs an alignment which they do not do - drove it home after hanging out at the shop for 5 hours. The steering wheel is now off 2 inches from center and the car is pulling noticeably to the right. Going back tomorrow - but they are saying that it was not them and that I need to pay for an alignment.
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I was driving my Taurus a few days ago when it lost all acceleration and power steering. The engine seemed to be running okay, and it restarted at the side of the road, but still no acceleration. I called AAA and had it towed to my mechanic. The following day they called and could find no problem.....
they had driven it several times, checked out likely causes but found nothing. This garage has been very reliable in the past. They said it could just be an electrical issue that may or may not happen again. The car seemed fine when I was driving it today, but I am worried about it happening again. What could have caused this/what I should do?
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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I have a 1999 ford taurus (3L,automatic) which I use here on the farm. A fluid leak in the return line from the cooler needed to be repaired last summer now after a couple of months a new problem occurred. When you stop and turn off the engine power steering fluid explodes out the filler cap. The fluid is foamy with air. I replaced the pump with a good used pump, then replaced the rack with a remanufactured unit and checked all the lines. I can't detect any evidence of a leak, (The old rack did appear to leak). I suspect that this is caused by an air leak in the return circuit causing air in the fluid which is compressed until the pump stops then expanding back through the pump into the reservoir.
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My taurus makes this weird sound when I turn my steering wheel left or right. It sounds like that cartoon "rubber being stretched" sound or maybe a little like plucking an overly tightened string. It doesn't affect driveability but I've been dealing with this for quite some time and I'm trying to sell it now... it's a major buyer turn off.
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Only had this car for about a month and 1200 trouble free miles. Really in great shape but with 276K miles on it. Really runs great and feels like a new car inside and out.
Yesterday, a cool morning, 38 deg.. Started at the Ready, backing out of my car port and cut the wheel partially to turn 90 deg. to enter the street. Came to full stop and shift lever is still in Rev, before I could shift to Drive. The steering wheel shutters like I was going over a rough. Jerking slightly from left to right about 2-3 degrees. Stopped within about a second and I still had normal steering response. I continued onto the street and made a ran a 300 mile round trip on freeway and surface streets without any further problems.
I know the power steering is electric assist over mechanical linkage and can only imagine that there was a power glitch in the power convertor and I was feeling pulses from the feed back in the power steering drive. No hydraulics to blame, I don't think.
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My 2002 Ford Taurus has 73,000 miles and was in good shape except for a small leak under driver's side. Has a new rack and pinion replaced one week ago. Have now noticed small leakage again. Also, when the steering wheel is turned it makes a clicking sound...almost like winding a clock. Rack and pinion replaced and alignment done. Why would it begin leaking again. This is a very comfortable car and has been maintained.
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How important is the fluid swap and service of the transmission service at 30k mile interval. I have my truck at the shop now getting it done but was just wondering how important to have it done. My truck is just ten months old and already been 30k miles in it.
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If I switch to synthetic will I be able to stretch out my changes? Currently do it @ 5k miles with rotella triple, was thinking about trying T6 and extending changes to 8k miles
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I have a 2003 Excursion 4X4 V10 (6.8l) gas with 130K.
About six months ago, the truck started stalling at irregular intervals. The truck runs fine for weeks at a time, but will suddenly die. This happens at idle, and under power. After stalling, the truck usually starts back up, but there has been a few instances where I thought it sounded fuel starved. It has stalled as many as four times in a row (within 15 minutes), but shortly after it runs fine again.
I researched this board, and tried the following: cleaned the MAF, and replaced the IAC Valve.
But, it stalled again, so in late February I took it to the dealer; a AAA approved repair facility which means they guarantee the fix for two years.
The dealer claimed to have pulled a P0231 code. As a result, they replaced the fuel pump and assembly, along with the fuel filter.
The truck ran fine until two weeks ago, then it went thru a series of stalls again. In each instance, the truck started right up, and I drove it to the dealer.
The dealer took it in again and had it for six business days, but they could not replicate the issue. I suggested they test the PCM/fuel relay and the signal going to the fuel pump - they said everything checked out okay. No charge, the ticket remains open.
What could be causing this? I am not too good with electrical stuff; in fact, I know very little. Another member explained a way to test the signal at the time the truck stalls, but I am not sure if I could competently do it. I am thinking I need to start replacing part after part until it stops? I don't mind doing that, but would need to know which parts to focus on. Should I start with the MAF? I cleaned it, but do not know how to test it.
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I'll be running my 2013 f-350 diesel with a 6,500 lb load on it at interstate speeds, steep, western mountain back roads, lots of dirt roads and some tortuous 4x4 in low range 1st gear. Been doing the same thing with a 1988 f-250 for the past 25 years and it was also pulling a four horse trailer. No horses any more but Ford owners manual seems to indicate I should think in terms of 5,000 mi maintainance intervals and use 5w-40 oil. I bought a 7,500 mi maintenance plan. Always did my own before. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 5,000 mi plan and 100% synthetic 5w-40.
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2004 f350 w 125000 miles.
I had diagnostic done at Autozone and no problems from check or OBD. The battery light has been coming on for a few minutes then going off at random intervals. Today I was towing trailer and quads, around 3500 lbs, to go riding and it was on most of the time running on interstate and highways.
Seems like the serpentine belt doesn't have as much tension as I would expect. Is there an easy way to change the serpentine? That looks to be a real pita.
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