Our 2005 Ford Taurus makes a rhythmic clunk from the rear when you slow down. The rhythm seems to slow as you brake. The noise isn't there when you are cruising or accelerating, only when you slow down. We recently drove 2000 miles with a small trailer attached. Could that have anything to do with it?
View 1 Replies2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
View 7 RepliesI've spent several hours over the course of the last week trying to figure out the problem I am having with my 1999 F150. When coming to a stop, there is a heard and felt "clunk" coming from the rear end of my truck. The other day, I had to brake to a stop rapidly and it felt like something had dropped out of the back end of my truck. It's 4WD with a 5.4L V8 with 240k miles. I have a fair amount of knowledge of the truck, having performed all maintenance and most repair, so if I need to check something and report back I should be able to. Also, I've owned the truck since it was new, and this is a recent development.
View 10 RepliesProblem is noise that you can describe as clunk, not any harsh or sharp sound. It appears on road bumps or unevenness during slow speed up to about 40kph/25mph. The noise has not been heard over that speed even in bad bumpy roads.
List of thing I've done so far:
- Driven with empty rear compartments
- Driven with open rear door
- Checked the tightness of spare tyre
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar linkages
- Replaced rear stabilizer bar bushings
- Replaced rear axle carrier knuckle bushings
Could it be possible not coming from rear? Should I sit in the cargo space while somebody else driving, any success with this? What to do next?
How to remove the rear seat on the LS460? I need to take it out to have access to the strut tower..need to make sure it's not ripped out/loose bolts or whats not ..still trying to locate the source of that clunk when braking..still...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Jeep Liberty, which is making a rhythmic clunk (Click and Clack's not oft referred to cousin) on every wheel rotation, when veering to the left. Going straight there is no noise, right, no noise, and oversteering left also makes the noise go away. Braking also makes the noise go away. Mechanic said they could not determine why it was doing this. It's not real loud, but noticeable at any speed, particularly prevalent at about 30 mph. Clunk noise happens once per tire rotation. I've seen similar threads here, but nothing "exactly" like this. Don't know how to duplicate the weight/momentum/centrifugal forces with the car stationary.
View 2 RepliesWhen I brake I get a rhythmic noise that starts like a quiet chirp and by the time I have completely put the brake pedal down it sounds like a loud grinding noise. It is a rhythmic pulsing noise, not continuous. I recently got new rear drum brakes, and 2 garages said my front brakes were fine. One guy said it could be the wheel bearing but I looked online and it says that happens when you accelerate, not when you brake. It only happens when I brake at relatively low speeds. In other words if I'm on the hiway and brake to slow down from 70 to 60 or 40 to 30, it won't happen. I also feel vibration in the brake pedal, but only when I have almost completely stopped.
View 1 RepliesI get a rhythmic thumping sound from my right front wheel when braking. The sound gets slower as the car slows, and when very slow sounds more like a grind than a thump. I can feel the vibration through the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, and had my wheel bearings replaced -- fixed the problem, but after about a year the sound came back. Just had the car inspected and brakes are in good shape (at least those parts checked out by the state inspection). Could it just be that I need to get the wheel assembly tightened up? (It's a '99 Honda Civic with about 145K on it, if that matters)....
View 11 RepliesBattery was replaced about three weeks ago after noticing slow cranking start-ups. Prior to that, the most recent repair was to replace a faulty coil assembly and ignition wires about nine months ago. The faulty coil assembly caused the car to sputter and lose power.
Currently, after the car has been run for at least a half-hour, and after the engine has been off for a few minutes, 5 or so, the engine will barely crank or won't turn over at all on re-start. I found that after letting the car rest and cool for a little while, I can get it to start, but it cranks very slowly. Once started, the car runs fine. The car always starts fine and cranks over very strongly if the engine is cold.
I've had the charging system and alternator checked, and everything appears to be normal. I've not had any warning lights illuminate on the dash. Fluid levels are all normal. The engine runs fine and does not overheat. Battery connections are tight and wires look okay. What could be done to diagnose the problem?
1999 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC Battle Wagon. It will not start. It is barely turning over so I started with the battery. Battery is good so I then cleaned all connections to the starter with no change. Still turning over but only barely. Took the starter off and had it tested at O'Reilly's and the starter is also good according to them. I guess my next step would be to start replacing the wiring from battery to starter? After that I am not too sure on a direction to go. On a side note, my cousin did not think it was very funny when I told him that the title was already signed and that it was his problem now.
View 4 RepliesOn Monday, I was driving my 03 Ford Taurus. I had my cruise set at 57mph, all the sudden I started slowing down. I pushed the gas to the floor to try speeding up, but I kept slowing down. The car never shut off. I still had all of the electronics and the motor was still running, had my power steering as well. I pulled over and shut the car off. I started it back up and continued down the road and it happened again. Same thing, slowed down and pressing the gas and no speed. This happened 5 times within 65 miles. I got to my destination and was there for about 15 minutes, when I made the return trip. On my way home, I didn't experience this issue at all. What the cause may be?
View 10 RepliesThis morning I was driving my 2000 Ford Taurus to work at about 45mph when it suddenly starts to slow down as I was pressing on the gas pedal. I pumped the gas pedal as it was slowing but still nothing. I pulled to the side of the road just as it was coming to a stop. I turned the car on (everything seemed fine) and all the lights came on and the engine started. I was in park with the car on and pressed the gas but the engine didn't rev. I turned the car on twice over the next twenty minutes or so as I waited for the tow truck.
About a half hour into this ordeal I turned the car on again and tried pressing the gas and this time the engine revved so I put the car in drive and drove it around the block. I eventually canceled the tow and drove the car home and to school (about six miles total or so, at speeds under 45mph). I recently filled up the tank and had car problems last week (the car now has a new battery and alternator) but up until this morning there was no issue. What it could be? The shop said it would be hard to diagnose unless they could recreate the issue...
i have an 03 ford taurus. recently i noticed a grinding sound when braking. My first thought was that i needed new brakes. I want to the mechanic, they did a courtesy inspection and found nothing wrong with them! the rotors are smooth with no grooves, the pads look almost brand new! the mechanic seemed baffled. when i bought the car the brakes that are on now. it's just recently that i have noticed the grinding sound. The mechanic ruled out other possible problems such as bad bearings and shocks...etc.. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesOkay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
View 6 RepliesVery annoying noise I have on the rear left wheel of my 2001 Hyundai accent. About a year ago I noticed a rhythmic noise coming from the rear left wheel of my car. I figured the car had done around 130K kms and was probably needing new bearing assemblies. This didn't fix the noise. So I thought maybe it was the struts or the wheels. Not either of those.. changed the struts and got the wheels balanced.
I changed the rear brakes shoes.. didn't work. So a few months went by and I figured I would try and get the drums machined. So I got them skimmed slightly but this did nothing. Finally I decided to that maybe the bearing was dodgy so I put a new on... and you guessed it.. The noise is still there.
The noise is always present whether I am braking or not. As I speed up the noise is more prevalent. Basically the noise is related to the rotation of the wheel. My next plan of attack is to put new brake shoes on with new brake drums. I don't know what else I can try.
I didn't see this problem anywhere. this car feels like the whole engine just fell out for just a second. it doesn't really stall but you can feel that there are weird things going on with the shifting. I'm scared to say transmission. my sister had a car that did the same thing but when it was accelerating..not braking and it was the rear sensor. I don't understand sensors or how it could make an engine do that but I don't know anything about cars. we've checked all fluids and all are ok.
View 1 RepliesSo my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
For the past 4/5 weeks my truck vibrates when i brake at slow speed ex. Driving out of a parking spot, slightly braking no matter if i go forward, reverse, turn or go straight it'll vibrate, sometimes very lightly, but usually it's very noticeable, can be compared to the clutch pack issue with these trucks. I had the clutchpacks in the rear diff. replaced at 160k ,after that it drove very smooth but that only lasted 20/30k.
So when turning it'll vibrate at about 15/20 km/h, but that's because of them crappy clutch packs
truck:
2009 f150
xlt ext. cab
4x4
xtr package
6,5 ft box
5.4 L
212000 km
Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
View 9 RepliesMy wife informed me about a noise coming from the chassis of her truck.
2007 Explorer XLT 4x4, 4.0 OHV, AT, 89,000 miles on the odometer.
We took the truck to dinner last night so I could investigate the problem. This occurs while only making left hand turns at slow speed.
There is a definite clunk sound AND feel. It actually sounds and feels like we are driving over a loose manhole cover, and IT DOES feel like metal to metal contact on the driverʻs sids of the truck.