Ford - Taurus :: RPMs Dropped Or Would Not Go Up To Normal - Thermostat Faulty
May 18, 2013
99 ford taurus 232000 miles. Great car I keep it fairly well maintained or my mechanic does actually. The thermostat was faulty and while in a long idle it shot all the way to HOT. The car did not over heat. the thermostat was replaced. A week later another long idle and it shot up to HOT again. A few days after that it was discovered I had a leak from the O rings going into the radiator part/section. They were replaced.
Yesterday I drove from work to the store about 25 miles. I got back to my car - started it up - it was rough/sluggish. I drove it 100 feet and noticed the RPM dropped or would not go up to where it had been normally. 40 to 45 miles an hour RPM at 1 or 1.5 .....It drove home "ok" but, I have had the car 13 years and I know there is something wrong. But I do not know what.
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I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
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2013 Ford Fusion ... My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.....
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I have a '04 Ford Mustang Convertible, V6 engine, and today on the way home it really scared me. I was stuck in traffic for an hour and a half, moving a few feet at a time, when all of the sudden, about 40 minutes into it, the RPM's dropped almost to the point of cutting off. This happened a total of 3 times until I finally got out of traffic. The last time it happened, I threw my hands up and said "I am going to see what it does." The previous 2 times I had stepped on the gas, but this time I did not, and it got to the point to almost cutting off, then caught itself and throttled back up.
Now, it was 90 degrees in Charlotte today and the AC was on. I was told this might be the issue. I have never had this happen before, but then again I don't live in Charlotte and this was something that has only happened this once in the whole year I have owned it. I thought maybe I was low on fuel, but the gage did not register as low, and no fuel light came on. I am hoping it was just the AC compressor driving the RPM's low...
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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I have a problem with my Camry 170k on the clock. Took it out a few nights back and the high idle was stuck on, after about an hour the idle gradually dropped to normal.
The next night it would not start and run unless I keep the accelerator pedal pressed slightly, after warming up it seems to run fine, The high idle has not returned
I have seen a few suggestion on cleaning the iac valve with Carbie cleaner, so I tried that and it made no difference.
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New here but long time lurker. I have a 2006 e350 with 6.0, bought it from a friend not long ago. The work that has been done to it the last 50,000 miles is as follows.. New hpop, all new injectors, egr delete, sct tuner, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I had it for a week and would get a no start hot once in a while. This issue had become worse and the truck started to stall as the RPMs dropped. Reading here i replaced crank sensor and the stalling stopped but the no start hot continued. I took it to a local diesel repair shop and they did the following..
Use a test ipr (no change), replaced ipr pigtail (was cracked) air test (leak under pass valve cover) replaced stand pipes and dummy plugs on this side. They said no leaks and I was good. Truck worked as its supposed to for 1 day and the no start hot issue reared its head again. Took it back and now they say the hpop is bad. The pump that was put in about 50,000 miles ago was a bostech? do these go out? Sangauge reads good ficm, but seams ipr doesn't climb that quick.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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Last wednesday when I was on my way home, the car felt like it lost power and the RPMs dropped, I keep on driving until I got home, I let the car cool off for a few minutes then I tried to start it and it wouldn't, after a few tries the car started and then died.
I didn't take it to the dealer because it was kinda late but I called and made an appointment for the next day, I ended up not taking in the car since it ran good all day and I know they don't do nothing unless they can replicate the problem, now this morning the car started acting again and it smells like gas inside the cabin and weird noises are coming from the gas tank filler neck.
[URL]..........................................
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Started the car and noticed a strange sloshing sound come from the dash. Following this the car's RPMs dropped and the engine made a sort of clunky/shaking/rattling sound. stopped and restarted, and drove home fine. check engine lights on so took it to autozone to be read. got back three codes.
What the problem might be or if each code is independent from one another. Here's the codes we found:
p0456 - evap emission control system pressure leak
p0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
p0117 - engine coolant temp (ECT) circuit fault
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About a week ago I noticed my RPMs suddenly dropped while I was driving. a couple days later after driving the highway for about 45 mins, averaging probably 80-90mph, I got into town and I stopped for a car to park. Then it just stalled, I didn't notice a kick back, it's like the car just shut itself off. It took probably 10 attempts to start again. About a mile down the road it did the same thing pulling up to a stop light. I sat through 2 light cycles before it started again.
Got to my destination was there for maybe an hour, when I left the car started fine. Drove for about another hour on back roads when the Rpms started dropping again and I would need to dump the clutch to get them to go back up. Then my screen started beeping telling me to STOP with and oil pressure alert. I ended up driving the car home dumping the clutch whenever the rpms would drop. Once I got home I had my boyfriend take it out and nothing... Of course... A couple days have gone by and it hasnt been as bad but it still drops every now and then, and today after driving home maybe 5 miles it stalled again...
I've plugged it in and my speed sensor is throwing codes, but I don't think that's the entire problem. Whenever my car acts up the EPC light comes on but no check engine light so far. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t.....
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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I have an issue with the 02 1.8t (wife has an issue). We recently took our car in to get some service work done and the mechanic informed me that he thinks the tranny is starting to go and just baby it....Fast forward a month the wife is driving the car, she said at around 40mph 2k RPM and the RPMs just drop after hearing a screeching/grinding noise....
Then she tried to apply throttle and it redlined...She said it would shoot up in RPM and not go over 30mph, she used the triptonic to get home and was able to get up to 45..Sat for a bit and I drove it, everything seemed ok..Shifts good, stops fine, no weird noises, etc....
Car is a 2002 Jetta 1.8t w/ 148k miles, regularly maintained, never had tranny oil flushed..
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
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I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
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I'll start by saying that I've only had my car for a month ... 2002 taurus i have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . so i noticed it yesterday when i turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the R.P.M drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 R.P.M but only in park . i can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. a/c compressor does engage and it works fine .
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I'll start by saying that I've only had it for a month ... 2002 taurus... I have replaced the computer on it so i went on by giving it a full tune up . 3.0 v6 with 91,000 on it . So I noticed it yesterday when I turn on the heat or defrost for the windshield that the RPM drops from 1000 down to 500 or 600 RPM but only in park . I can put it in drive or reverse and it's fine. AC compressor does engage and it works fine...
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Just curious. Are my RPM's running high? Currently I'm running 3000 rpm's at 76 mph. Is that high? Someone told me it was. (My speedometer shows I'm running 80mph but both my gps show 76mph, stock tires, 1.8T). Pretty sure I'm in range.
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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